Effin jeep. So steering is as sorted as Im gonna make it. Problem 1, replace tie rod and drag link. This helped the rubbing, but there was obviously still issues. Finally found out pre 74 cars had a shorter pitman arm at 6.25" as opposed to the usual 7" This was due to the closed knuckle dana 30 the truck would have had, and its lesser turning radius because closed knuckle. Then leaf spring bushings replaced in the front, and thats that. Truck actually goes where you point it, as well as a leaf spring truck with chonky tires can. Its actually not bad at all, way easier to drive. Leaf spring bushings were so bad that inputs from the steering wheel were more of a general suggestion, as the bumps on the road would shift the front end so badly it was pretty much gonna go where ever it wanted. Im pretty sure the steering box bracket for the 74 trucks moved the box farther forward in the truck giving you more clearance for the pitman arm. But to do this, id need to change the steering shaft, and to do that id need to change.modify the column. As this older column has the square pegs on it for the bell steering coupler, not a D shaft or splined anything.
Next welded up the shifter selector pin. Plastic being gone is common, and the pin gets all wobbly. Almost feels like a short shifter now haha. Wiring is done, audio system installed and sounds pretty decent. CDT 6x9 components were already in the front doors, as was the Pioneer flip face head unit. Also came with a boxed pioneer 10" sub. I picked up a toro audio amp (been wanting to try a micro amp) and finally had a reason to use my old Jensen (Recoton) 200 watt 2 channel amp. Made up a quick plate with sheet metal, used some yellow paint ive had lying around, cause when else do you get to use yellow paint. Dialed it in and thats that. Gotta crank it to hear it over that stupid diesel, but it works well. And that sub actually hits decently. Im not dissatisfied.
Dumped the stupid Corvette C3 master cylinder. What a joke. Never ever again will i use one of those. I dunno if hte aftermarket ones are better, but the out hole for the rear circuit is drilled in the bore at 10 o'clock. Last I checked air sits at 12. So its a nightmare to bleed em. I gave up cause I got better Sh*t to do, and swapped in a Wilwood. Braked bled, mostly. Then I swapped in the parking brake calipers I have and again, brakes bled mostly. WTF...realized the caliper brackets on the rear and the angle of the bleeders....are at 10 o'clock. Frekin hell....Unblot the calipers and rotors and angle things so I can get the bleed port at the right angle to get the air out, and finally all the air is out. This Saturday its getting parking brake cables, so that will be done. Not that Ive needed a parking brake, honestly. Diesel, high compression, she wont roll ;) Especially if you leave it in 1st with its 6:1 ratio haha.
Everything leaks, but eh, what ever. The front axle doesn't actually. The trans not so bad either. Engine has a few little ones, rear diff either has a leaking cover or pinion. The whole bottom ends up wet and it leaves a small spot, im pretty sure its the cover cause I have no oil slinging around it looks like. Transfer case needs a reseal. But its still full. So what ever. Also swapped the crushed trans mount. I question how long this new one wil last as the back of the drivetrain is heeeeavy. It really needs a poly mount
The gauges light sockets were all melted so I got the closest thing I could find that would work with LEDs and used tape to hold em in. Not shelling out a couple hundo on gauges cause the bulbs dont stay in, tape works fine. Also fixed a broken door hinge pin (dont ever try to press them out, just drill em...2.5 hours wasted) and adjusted the doors and strikers so the doors dont require the strenth of Thors hammer to close em. Just a firm pull or push.
And thats it, I dont want to work on this junk any more. I like the truck but im over it. Ive got my MGBeast project coming back from paint it a few weeks so this one has to go. Parking brake cables Saturday, and its getting detailed tomorrow. Throw the spare back under it and thats it. Its one of those vehicles either someone will drive as it, or start to make it their own. So many things you can do, and I wont spend the time or $$ to make it how I want for the next guy to go eff that. Hence minimal suspension work to make it safe, incase someone wants to lift it would would mean springs, shocks etc etc. Same with the seats, they should be changed to something that physically fits better. At the same time they can address the seat belts. And the oil leaks? Next guy might not like how loud the diesel is and LS swap it, which means the transfercase is something out anyway and it can be delt with then. Or if they keep the diesel, put an NV4500 5 speed in it, cause lord knows it could use at least 1 more gear if not 2. And again, transfercase comes out. Then they can change the single stock shifter to a twin stick which isn't expensive, and reseal it. As it sits, its safe to drive, should be reliable and needs little stuff. Good project for someone who doesnt wanna tackle the insane things I did. Couple of pics today, then some more later after the detail and parking brake stuffs.
This first pic is pre pitman arm change
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Different in length, and it had to be reamed bigger as well
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Dont bother trying to press a broken door pin out, its permeably part of the hinge. No amount of heat wishes or unicorn farts will make it come out
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