Well. OK. I guess I have a project now. Ranger content.

I’m often amused by the little unexpected twists and turns that life can throw at us. Sometimes they are good, and sometimes not so good. Regardless we (I anyway) usually don’t see them coming.

Case in point. I just became the proud owner of a pickup truck. I didn't particularly want or need one, it just sort of “showed up” a couple of weeks ago.  

Now, I’m not really a “truck guy”. Nothing against them. I’ve owned a few over the years. Probably the best and most reliable vehicle I ever owned was a Nissan pickup that I bought brand-new in 1990. I loved that thing, it was a tank. No matter how hard I beat on it, it just kept on (slowly) doing its thing. Not a single mechanical problem in 160K miles. Also, I grew up in rural Kentucky, I’m a “farm kid”, so trucks are nothing new. I’ve often thought that it would be handy to have a truck, but not handy enough to justify having one as my daily driver, and I have zero interest in those monstrous, Titanic-sized things that today’s “full size” trucks have metastasized into.  

None of that matters. A couple of weeks ago, my son presented me with a deal that was simply too good to pass up. A red, 1999 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab 2-wheel drive with the 3.0 V6 and automatic transmission and just over 94K on the odometer. The price? $0, absolutely free. Even I can’t say no to that.  It was his girlfriend’s truck and after a couple of minor accidents and a few mechanical issues, her dad bought her another set of wheels. My son, Jonah, was apparently worried that I didn't have enough to do, so he bought the truck from his girlfriend’s dad for (I think) $300 and gave it to me as an early Christmas present. I have to admit, as a dad, that gives me a “warm fuzzy” feeling. 

So, I can hear you asking, “what’s the catch”??? I know I asked myself that question. Honestly, I don’t think there is one. The truck had been sitting for a few months. My son said it was a bad battery or alternator and had a flat right-rear-tire. When I first laid eyes on it, I was pleasantly surprised. It was much better than I expected, apart from the obvious body damage from a couple of low-speed accidents, it looked pretty good. The rear tire had a screw in it, so I plugged that and aired it up. The battery was completely flat. 0V even when disconnected. Swapping in a temporary spare battery revealed that the alternator was also bad.

A new battery was acquired ($89), and a quick trip to a local pull-a-part for an alternator ($24) and I drove it the 8 miles or so home.

With it in my driveway, I started to give the truck a good looking-over so that I could get some idea of what I was in for. I have to say, I am pretty darn happy with most of what I have discovered so far. Some research was needed, because despite actually owning a very similar Ranger many years ago, I really don't know anything about them.

Here’s what I have found (so far)

The Good:

1. Despite sitting for months, as soon as I put a battery in it, it fired right up. I’m not sure the crankshaft even made a complete rotation on the starter before it was running.
2. It drives, well, better than one would expect for a free 19 year old truck. Which is to say, not great, but it doesn't feel unsafe and there was nothing that was alarming.
3. Fluids: Levels were OK except for the coolant. It was low enough that there was none at all in the overflow tank. Topped that up and will keep an eye on it. Brake fluid is darker than my ex-wife’s heart, so that’ll need changing but it’s not urgent.
4. Interior, not bad, no rips or tears, in need of a good deep-cleaning, some stains but nothing that won’t come out……probably. It even smells nice inside.
5. So far, as far as I can tell, most everything on this little truck works! Even things that you would expect might not, given it’s age. The AC is ice cold, radio works, AM and FM anyway, I don’t have any tapes to test the cassette player with. Speedo, Tach, gauges, dome light, even the cruise control ….. it all works. There are a few things that don’t but that’ll be in the next section.
6. Engine runs well, it does surge slightly at idle, but just barely. The engine bay is dusty and needs a cleaning, but I have not found any signs of significant oil or coolant leaks.
7. Body. It has unrepaired damage from 2 accidents. I’ll get to that. This section is about the good parts. The undamaged sheet metal is pretty straight. A few dings here and there but nothing serious. The paint is not great. The clearcoat is coming off in places and there is a lot of fading. It even has a very nice aluminum diamond-plate toolbox and diamond-plate bedrail caps.
8. Chassis. I got it up on jack stands and had a good root around (as the brits say) and everything looks good. I was concerned about possible frame damage from one of the accidents, but I couldn’t see any evidence of that.
9. I saved the best part for last. This truck has NO RUST AT ALL. None. A little minor surface rust in places you’d expect it underneath, but other than that it is solid. Cab corners, rocker panels, the bottom of the doors, wheel arches, everywhere you normally expect to find rust is rock-solid. I love living in the south!!!! 

The not-so-good:

1. The truck has been in (at least) 2 accidents. I see no evidence of more than 2.
   • It was hit in the front, or more likely it rear-ended someone. The damage here is actually worse than I thought when I first laid eyes on it. Grille and bumper are gone. Bumper-mounting flanges are all bent up. The frame horns themselves look straight though. The header panel behind the grille is busted up, so the right side headlight is cockeyed and the radiator support is pushed back about ¾” or so on the right side. The radiator support is the worst of it though. Everything else is bolt-on stuff.
   • It was hit pretty hard on the left side at some point, right between the back of the cab and the front of the rear wheel arch. It’s caved in almost all the way to the frame. Luckily, the gas filler door and filler tube are still in place, accessible and not leaking.
2. The rear half-doors that Ford put on these Rangers are stuck closed and will not open with the latch. Apparently, this is pretty common on these trucks.
3. The electronic door locks don’t work reliably. The driver’s door will unlock fine with the button, but won’t lock with it. The passenger side won’t do either. It’s not the switches, In both cases you can hear the solenoid trying and see the lock button on the door try to move.
4. The suspension needs work. It creaks, it groans. A lot. No metal-to metal sounds. Tons of body roll when cornering, even for a truck.
5. The brakes are….not great. Not terrible, but they need some attention. It stops, but it should stop more quickly.
6. This truck is SLOW!!! I didn’t expect it to be fast, not with that automatic transmission sucking up what little power the 3.0 puts out, but damn!!! This thing makes my 2015 Honda Fit feel like an Ariel Atom. 

So what am I going to do with my new truck? I’m not 100% sure. As much as I’d like to get crazy and do something “Roadkill” with it, it’s actually just too nice a vehicle for that. I’m thinking that a little love and attention can make this into a pretty nice little truck. I’m a fairly competent wrench for most things, I’ve rebuilt and engine or three in my time, electrics don’t scare me, in fact I have experience with almost every kind of work that this truck is likely to need……..except body-work. I have almost no experience with that. 

Since body work constitutes the majority of what this truck needs, I think I am going to use it as my classroom, a tool to learn some new skills. I’m not even going to try to fix that smashed in bed. I can get a complete bed from a junkyard that’s in much better shape for less than $200. That makes much more sense, particularly since, much to my surprise, aftermarket replacement bedsides are not available for these trucks. I don’t own a welder anyway. So I’ll replace the bed, then tackle the front damage. Right now I’m putting together the list of parts I’ll need, and scouring the local junkyards.

Once that is done, it’ll need to be painted. I REALLY want to try painting it myself. I’m in the process of wiring a 220V circuit in my garage for a 60gal compressor. I’m just waiting for cooler weather before climbing into the attic to pull the wire. We’ll see. It’s an intimidating prospect, and I’d have to do it at the right time of the year, the humidity here during the warmer months would probably be a disaster for painting. Perhaps I’ll just find someone else to paint it, providing I can get it done on the cheap.

None of this is going to happen fast. There is no need to do it quickly. Money is very tight just now so what little budget I have for this will have to be spaced out over a longer time period than I’d like.

So here I go! If anyone here has knowledge and experience with these little trucks I’m happy to take all the advice and knowledge I can get!!

Once it’s done? I can’t lie. It’ll be handy from time to time to have a little truck around for when I need to do “truck things”, but I expect I’ll probably sell it, or trade it for something I really want……like a Miata….. 

Nice of your son to do that 

after the work you put into it, will you really be able to trade it for a Miata? 

If my kids bought me a car, I keep it forever :) 

Theres a reason they call that engine the 3.slow in ranger circles lol

Right on, man. Pretty solid move by your son, I'd say- good kids are good.

Rangers are pretty tough.  Ford only parts  from the pre 2005 trucks are getting hard to find though.  Especially emissions related stuff.  Junk yards will be your friend for finding out of production parts.

Also searching parts catalogs for parts from later Fords that can be adapted to yours.   

the intake manifold gasket can leak coolant if its low. I believe that is one of the early plastic ones iirc. The plastic can pass alot of heat to the rubber gasket and it starts leaking into the top of the valley. if you are still loosing coolant but don't see an external leak, i'd check there.

The calipers on those years eat the inside pads on the front, i'd check wear.

um... it's been along time... oh, the door latches, the lever arm that comes from the electric solenoid either bends or comes off. it's at a funny angle. check your window tracks and motor if you pull the door cover while you are in there, the plastic gears can wear and tracks can get gummed up (ford window syndrome) Pretty sure these years were part of that.. again, i don't deal with rangers much, but I think I can recall that correctly in my young old age. Junk yard is your friend here. 

Fix the body, slam it (3/5 or 4/6), mustang bullet wheels, red and black 2 tone, tonneau cover, and run it 200k more.

But im a "truck guy".

Thanks everyone!

He's turning into a good young man.  It hasn't always been easy for him, or us.  He was a more than difficult teenager, made a lot of mistakes, and our relationship hasn't always been great.  Honestly there is plenty of blame to go around om both sides, raising kids isn't easy, or for the faint of heart, particularly boys.  As he has been easing toward his mid-20's he's started to figure some things out and our relationship has gotten a lot better.  

I was pretty surprised, and touched by the gift. It was totally unexpected, but I've had a rough time too lately, and I think it is his way of helping me out.  He knows how much I love all things automotive.  I keep all the cars in the family fleet on the road.  

mr2s2000elise:  Yes.  He knows how badly I've wanted a Miata for years.  He won't be offended, if I sell or trade it for one eventually, and I'll just transfer the gratitude to the new ride.  

Antihero: Yeah.  I had a Ranger of similar vintage (96 mabye??) a long time ago, with the 4-cyl and 5-speed manual, and it felt faster than this thing...  I think I may have solved part of that mystery, the Axle tag is pretty grimy, but I am pretty sure it has the 3.08 ring and pinion.......  RPM at 70MPH is really low.  The door sticker is gone, so I'm not 100% sure.  I have my eye on a 8.8 limited slip with 4.10's in a local junkyard.  If it is still available when I have the funds available I may snag that and swap it.

jharry3:  The local u-pull it yards have a goodly supply of Rangers.  I found one with an almost pristine bed, complete with wiring harness, that could be mine for $135. (it's green though...) I'm still shocked that replacement bed side panels aren't available aftermarket though. The same yard has one in the same color even, but it's the stepside one and then my toolbox wouldn't fit....

FunkyCricket:  This one has the all aluminum intake manifold.  I think the plastic ones started in 2001 maybe??  Today I did notice a very small amount of coolant drip, and I mean really tiny.  When I tear the front end down to deal with the bent radiator core support I may just do the water pump while I have easy access.  Probably hoses too.  Thanks for the info on the calipers.  I'll give them a good look before I put many miles on it.

Dusterbd3:  I've read most of your work here.  Your advice is exactly what I'd have expected.  I'll admit, it is tempting, but if I went that route I'd probably want to do some sort of driveline swap, preferably something strange or unusual....  

I've been researching and surveying junkyard parts availability.  Tomorrow the real parts gathering starts.  I'm going to Pensacola to get a pristine header panel (or whatever you cal that fiberglass piece that the grille, headlights and turn signals bolt to) from a junkyard there.  They want almost as much for it as I can get a new aftermarket one for, but I figure if the cost is equal, I'll stick with OEM FoMoCo stuff if I can.

Im not sure if i should say thanks or sorry that youve read most my work....

But at least im predictable!

I think one of the 300hp v6 from the mustang would wake up a two tone lowrider ranger pretty good......

On a side note, my father would definitely relate to the struggles with a son like what you alluded to.  As the son, im grateful for tough love and that he rode it out until i got the monkeys off my back. Im certain your son will feel the same way at some point.

aahh.. good to know on the intake. My dad had a series of rangers through those years, it was awhile ago, so I can't remember which was which. I gave him a hand with a lot of the repairs when I was home from college at the time. 

In reply to mikedd969 :

How low is the rpm at 70? Better gearing will help but in the end the 3.0 is kinda the bastard of the rangers, it gets very similiar gas mileage to the 4.0(which is an engine i like a lot) but has very little power, most people say the 4cyl has more power probably because its usually in a lighter car. 

In reply to Antihero :

I'll check it the next time I have it out on the highway.  Right now I'm not driving it much at all.

I am seriously considering a manual transmission swap in the future, particularly if I keep it very long.  They are easy to find and cheap.  Have to replace the ECM too, but those are also easy to find and cheap.  I know the 3.0 is kind of a gutless wonder, but I figure a manual would probably help at least a little bit. 

My mom actually has a 2004 Ranger with the 4.0 and the 5-speed manual, that thing moves down the road MUCH better!!!

Mainly I just really hate driving anything with an automatic transmission. This is the first vehicle I have ever owned with one, well one that is MY vehicle anyway, the wife and kids have had plenty of them over the years.

Not throwing stones at anyone who likes and drives an automatic, I just don't like them for my own use.   

I haven't updated this thread but there HAS been progress.  

I've been repairing some of the front-end damage. For some reason I posted my "how the hell do I do this?" questions over on the  "Tech TIps" forum....no idea why, I should have posted them here, but for anyone who might be interested, that thread is here:  Tech Tips: Question from a body work "noob".....

So the front end now looks like this.

A big improvement, and less than $100 spent.  

It's nice to have working turn signals again....

Next up will be replacing the missing front bumper.  Finding one shouldn't be too hard.  There are plenty of Rangers in the various junkyards around here.

Actually mounting the "new" bumper, once I have one, will be a bigger problem.

It's a little hard to see, but if you look closely at the picture above, you will notice that the bumper mounting brackets, on the ends of the frame are badly bent and mangled.  These are welded to the frame, so they will either have to be heated and bent back into shape in-place, removed and bent back into shape off of the truck and welded back on, or replaced with new ones.  New brackets are fairly cheap (About $25 each) and available, but the problem is....... I have no cutting torch and no welder......

I hate to pay someone else to do this for me, but I will if I have to.

If there are ANY GRM folks that are reasonably close to the Mobile, AL area, that have a torch and a welder and are willing to help.......I will bring the beer!!!   As a bonus, since I don't drink (anymore) you won't even have to share.    I would be forever grateful.

Check the throttle cable at the gas pedal, they have a tendency to stretch. The fix is a ziptie or two on the end of the cable to take up the slack. Don't overdo it or the throttle wont close completely. 

TenToeTurbo said:

Check the throttle cable at the gas pedal, they have a tendency to stretch. The fix is a ziptie or two on the end of the cable to take up the slack. Don't overdo it or the throttle wont close completely. 

Also make sure to get the throttle cable and not the kick down cable. Made that mistake on my Explorer when I was in high school.

TenToeTurbo said:

Check the throttle cable at the gas pedal, they have a tendency to stretch. The fix is a ziptie or two on the end of the cable to take up the slack. Don't overdo it or the throttle wont close completely. 

Thanks!  I'll check that.  I haven't noticed anything that would lead me to believe that there is any problem there, but it won't hurt to give it a look. About the only thing I have noticed engine-wise is a very slight surge at idle, hardly enough to notice but it is there.  When I plugged my scanner into the OBD-2 port there were no codes at all, pretty remarkable in a truck this old when you think about it......

We have all had difficult times in our lives. Being able to buy my parents a brand new station wagon few years ago and hand over new car and title was satisfying for me. 

parenting isn’t easy. No book there. Everyday I appreciate my parents more, as I get older and spend time with my kids 

keep up the good work. 

TenToeTurbo said:

Check the throttle cable at the gas pedal, they have a tendency to stretch. The fix is a ziptie or two on the end of the cable to take up the slack. Don't overdo it or the throttle wont close completely. 

Ah yes, the Ziptie Turbo. I have done this, it makes a difference

In reply to Antihero :

There's nothing quite like the throttle opening all the way. 

I agree with the throttle cable suggestions. The 3.0 tends to build up some carbon too, so running some Sea Foam through it might help.

My truck started as an auto, and the manual swap was pretty straightforward. I had a unique wiring hiccup where the clutch pedal sensor harness (that the internet says every Ranger has) wasn't there. But as long as you've got that connector under the dash, its an easy bolt-in. I think 99 was the first year for PATS though, so switching the PCM is going to require a reflash.

If you want to go down the rabbit hole of 3.0 performance there are options. There are definitely more cost effective ways to go fast, but not all 3.0's are 3.Slow's.

That is sweet looking, but if I ever get the itch for more power, I'll just swap in a different engine.    There are 4.0 engines everywhere in the junkyards and even if I had to rebuild it, it would probably still be cheaper than trying to squeeze HP out of the 3.0.  I've driven my Mom's Ranger with the 4.0 and 5-speed manual and that thing scoots down the road pretty darn good. 

I have a few things in the "make it not so slow" category on my tentative list already, but not until I get the body all fixed and painted.

Well, just 2 things actually.  

1. Swap the rear axle.  I am finding plenty of Rangers and Explorers with 8.8LS rear axles in the junkyards.  I'd love to find a 4.10 but most I see are 3.73 and that will work.

2. Swap in a manual transmission.  Still researching which ones will work without a custom bell housing or adapter ($$$).  Manual transmissions in junkyards are pretty cheap, and even if I have to buy a rebuild kit and go through it, it should still be do-able for a reasonable cost.  Plus then I won't have to drive an automatic....  

But for now.....the search for a decent front bumper is proving to be a bigger challenge than I anticipated.  I'm going to have to widen my search area.....  I did manage to find replacments for my mangled brackets and I'll get those cleaned up and welded on in about a week.  Hopefully I will have found a suitable bumper by then.  

Swapping another engine is probably a more responsible idea than trying to squeeze much more from the 3.0. You'd need an engine, trans, exhaust manifolds/Y-pipe, wiring harness and PCM (with plan to negate PATS).

mikedd969 said:

2. Swap in a manual transmission.  Still researching which ones will work without a custom bell housing or adapter ($$$).  Manual transmissions in junkyards are pretty cheap, and even if I have to buy a rebuild kit and go through it, it should still be do-able for a reasonable cost.  Plus then I won't have to drive an automatic....  

The 3.0 has a unique bell housing bolt pattern. The only manual that will bolt on is the M5OD that came in 3.0 equipped Rangers and Mazda B3000. You'll also need the driveshaft, pedals, clutch& master cylinder, shifter/console, steering column trim and PCM (with a plan to negate PATS).

So, since most of the parts are unique to the 3.0, and would have to be switched out (again) to do an engine swap later, you might be money ahead to do the engine swap and trans swap at the same time. That is, if you don't plan on keeping the 3.0 long term. The only additional things needed would be the engine, engine harness, and Y pipe. That would keep you from doing a trans swap now, and then having to do it again with your next engine.

I'd also think that by the time you repair the body, and do whatever drivetrain swaps you elect to do, you might be able to just buy the truck that's equipped the way you want. If you want to do it just to do it that's cool, but Rangers are cheap enough and easy enough to find that buying one configured the way you want might be cheaper, (and definitely faster/easier) than swapping it into what you want it to be.

STM317 said:

Swapping another engine is probably a more responsible idea than trying to squeeze much more from the 3.0. You'd need an engine, trans, exhaust manifolds/Y-pipe, wiring harness and PCM (with plan to negate PATS).

mikedd969 said:

2. Swap in a manual transmission.  Still researching which ones will work without a custom bell housing or adapter ($$$).  Manual transmissions in junkyards are pretty cheap, and even if I have to buy a rebuild kit and go through it, it should still be do-able for a reasonable cost.  Plus then I won't have to drive an automatic....  

The 3.0 has a unique bell housing bolt pattern. The only manual that will bolt on is the M5OD that came in 3.0 equipped Rangers and Mazda B3000. You'll also need the driveshaft, pedals, clutch& master cylinder, shifter/console, steering column trim and PCM (with a plan to negate PATS).

So, since most of the parts are unique to the 3.0, and would have to be switched out (again) to do an engine swap later, you might be money ahead to do the engine swap and trans swap at the same time. That is, if you don't plan on keeping the 3.0 long term. The only additional things needed would be the engine, engine harness, and Y pipe. That would keep you from doing a trans swap now, and then having to do it again with your next engine.

I'd also think that by the time you repair the body, and do whatever drivetrain swaps you elect to do, you might be able to just buy the truck that's equipped the way you want. If you want to do it just to do it that's cool, but Rangers are cheap enough and easy enough to find that buying one configured the way you want might be cheaper, (and definitely faster/easier) than swapping it into what you want it to be.

All good points.  I don't really have a long-term plan for this little truck at the moment. I didn't plan on having one, so a lot of this is just me thinking out loud.....like I tend to do.  

Beyond body and paint, plus any repairs that I discover might be needed along the way, I really hve no idea where it will all wind up.  I do know where there is a 3.0 with a 5-speed manual in a junkyard, but I'm not in a position budget-wise to go ahead and grab it right now, and the whole PATS thing is a bit of a PITA from what I have been able to learn so far.

It is most likely that I'll probably drive it for a while once I get the body work done and then sell it or trade it for something else.  It will make a good little truck for someone once I smooth down the rough spots.

I know I need to, at a minimum:

• Finish the front end repairs (Bumper, valence)
• Fix the dents on the drivers's side rear corner of the cab.
• Replace the bed.
• Paint it.
• Give the power windows some love, they work, but they are not in great shape.
• Get the rear doors open and fix the latches.
• Fix the power door locks
• Replace the passenger side mirror.
• Put a stereo in it that has Bluetooth (I have one already may do that this week)
• Replace the lift struts on the toolbox.
• Clean the carpet and upholstery. 
• I think I have a belt tensioner or idler pulley going bad.

That's not a bad list.  Only the body and paint work is new to me.  Looking forward to trying my hand at that.

A bit more progress.  I've been scouring local salvage yards looking for a decent front bumper for this truck, and so far, they are proving impossible to find.  The front bumper is specific to only 1999 and 2000 models, all the others use totally different mounting brackets and hardware.  I've been to every yard I can find in a 50-60 mile radius, no luck at all.

I did however, find this almost pristine complete bed form a 1997 Ranger.  It's in amazing condition apart from a few drilled holes in the top of the bed rails where it looks like a topper was installed at some point.  Zero rust, the inside looks like it never hauled anything and it is even the right color!!!  $180 and it was mine.

My father in law and I picked it up yesterday and hauled it back home.  Very pleased!!  It was easy yo remove, 6 T55 bolts, 3 8mm holding the filler neck in place and one wiring harness plug.

Huge thanks to my father in law Rich for helping me load and unload.

 We were both pretty surprised by how light the bed assembly is.  Very easy for 2 people to move around.  I'm going to give it a good wash, prime, get rid of those awful chrome accents and paint any spots that need it and put it on the truck.

Nice find with the bed!  Pull that extra chrome off and it will really help the curb appeal of your truck.