Javelin wrote: The interior is just clean as a whistle. No cracks or tears, and everything works.
Huh. Really weird shadow on that seat, then.
Javelin wrote: The interior is just clean as a whistle. No cracks or tears, and everything works.
Huh. Really weird shadow on that seat, then.
Osterkraut wrote:Javelin wrote: The interior is just clean as a whistle. No cracks or tears, and everything works.Huh. Really weird shadow on that seat, then.
Are you this big of a prick in real life, too? I had owned the car for sll of five minutes when I made the post, and missed a tear under my ass. Whoopdedoodaday. 
Weren't you banned for cyber stalking?
But you posted the picture and wrote the blurb underneath after your butt was out of the seat. I'll put this down to being in the proximity of a used car lot. The seat is probably the least of your worries. Good luck with dent and future sale.
Javelin wrote: Are you this big of a prick in real life, too? I had owned the car for sll of five minutes when I made the post, and missed a tear under my ass. Whoopdedoodaday.
Nope. Mistaken again.
Sweet find though. Engine more than makes up for any flaws in the interior.
Well the Mazda is in the shop today and the Alfa is in the parking lot at work, so lunchtime shall become resurrection hour!
Nicely well bought. Really liking the brown and the hardtop is a real bonus, especially in this part of the world. Love the wood steering wheel, love those 3 little gauges in the center stack, love the fluted door panels with just a simple chrome pull handle, overall just a cool little car that deserves saving.
That dent in the front may be a good candidate for one of those dent removal kits where you weld a line of studs to the panel and pull the dent back out. I think Ed used one on the 308 GT4.
What a buy for $1200! Looking forward to this project.
Can't argue with a price like that. I'd bought it too! Did you drive it home?
Hell of a buy for $1200! I love the interior design and layout...The weird shifter, split individual gauge pods, and chrome handbrake lever. All of it awesome!
In reply to SEADave:
I'm pretty sure that tool costs about twelve grand. I've thought about rigging up something similar with a welder and a bunch of big washers.
If I remember all my Spica nightmares, there is a cold start solenoid that fails on these. I put a manual version on my GTV and tuned it per the manual and it actually worked pretty good. The Spica system is like a mini engine with pistons, etc., pretty cool really.
I think it looks pretty good for $1,200 by the way.
New battery and plugs and now it fires right up and idles okay. It will rev up slowly. If you just goose it, it sucks for air and dies. Ran out of time to diagnose further.
I think you can get a stud welder for a couple hundred
To be fair I saw the tear in the seat and thought the exact same thing. So perhaps your response was unwarranted Woody.
docwyte wrote: To be fair I saw the tear in the seat and thought the exact same thing. So perhaps your response was unwarranted Woody.
Me three, but Woody has nothing to do with it. 
Slippery wrote: Woody has nothing to do with it.
Thank you.
SEADave wrote: That dent in the front may be a good candidate for one of those dent removal kits where you weld a line of studs to the panel.
I DIY'd something like that with a HF slide hammer, Vice Grips, and nails. HF slide hammer came with the attachment that threads into the Vice Grips.
Awesome project, Jav. Following with much interest.
That's a great find for that price (I hope). Love that shifter position. I would drive this forever.
How did you find out about it? All of my local dealerships cram their recent trade-ins into the darkest, deepest corners of their lots and don't tell anyone until it's time for auction.
If it revs up with great effort and dies/chokes when you stomp on it, I wonder what the fuel pressure is like.
In reply to wheelsmithy:
I've been thinking about this technique for a few months. I wonder if it might work even better welding the sharp end of the nails to the dent rather than the head. You'd have the nail head to grab onto with the Vise Grips and a smaller weld to grind off when you're done.
In reply to ssswitch:
It's a friend of mine's dealership, the guy that traded me the Cobra for the Javelin. He knew I'd want it, so he called me as soon as it came in.
Also, totally diagnosed low fuel pressure before coming home. I'm close now! 
If you ever get up to the Seattle area I have a engine and a lot of knick knack parts left from on of these I parted out. Best part is I have the nose in almost perfect shape sitting in my back yard being a lawn ornament. There your's for a $20 dollar donation to my welding gas cost.
If the panel is thin enough, seems like the nose would be a candidate for glue pulls. You can slide hammer or bridge a glue pull, the technique is pretty cool. It would sure be nice to save it with PDR instead of having to repaint the panel.
Woody wrote: In reply to wheelsmithy: I've been thinking about this technique for a few months. I wonder if it might work even better welding the sharp end of the nails to the dent rather than the head. You'd have the nail head to grab onto with the Vise Grips and a smaller weld to grind off when you're done.
I used finishing nails,
not to contradict anything you said. They worked for my purposes. Now, pulling a Miata rocker out, well, guess we'll have to wait and see.
Hard to imagine getting the nose straight without painting. There's also the dent at the tail light, and once your in, then you should remove the door bump strips. Then why not eliminate the marker lights and switch over to the European small lights. Then lower it to Euro height...
There used to be fiberglass versions of these bumpers. You can at the minimum compress the shocks and move them into the body ~2". I think the 74 bumpers can be fitted relatively easily.
Don't forget the oil filter in the fuel injection crankcase. You are glad the air pump has been removed. It's good that you have it running, don't start adjusting things without following the real guide for Spica. The stock air filter housing likely gives the right sound and more power than the foam filters. Look for a 72 - 74 to eliminate the fitting for the over the top preheat tube (already eliminated in your car).
This is the "Kamm tail". The boat tail was 67 -69 rounded tail. Maybe this is the Skiboat tail. "Duetto" was the given name for 67 only. This is a Spider Veloce. The hardtop is not factory.
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