These found their way home to live on the Tunachucker Homestead last week. Very, very rusty, dented, and the red one tried to kill me with a huge bees nest. The bees have since been dispatched.
There's B20s, an M41, and automatic trans, lots of dash parts, baked interiors, axles and suspension parts, etc. Want a whole car, or any parts, let me know.
I think I was talking to the same guy about the "good" one. If it's the guy who had 3.
Docwemple said:I think I was talking to the same guy about the "good" one. If it's the guy who had 3.
Yeah, he had 3. When I showed up the "good" one was being loaded up, it had already sold. I claimed these and came back the next day with my trailer. He was literally about the send them to the crusher. While they're beyond any sort of reasonable restoration, there's lots of good parts on them. The B20 on the red one turned over with a wrench, and when I hooked up a battery and a coil, and spat some starting fluid into it, it fired. That one has an automatic trans.
The engine in the green car is stuck; I took out the plugs and shot some oil down there in hopes of freeing it up, but it seems pretty stuck. That one had an M41, which was removed already, but came with the car.
Is the sheet metal around the hatch areas of either of them somewhat decent?
Save the rear side glass gaskets - those are practically more valuable than the glass. A lot of breakers saved the side glass, but most did so by cutting it out of the rubber gaskets, which is very much NLA.
Ian F (Forum Supporter) said:Is the sheet metal around the hatch areas of either of them somewhat decent?
Save the rear side glass gaskets - those are practically more valuable than the glass. A lot of breakers saved the side glass, but most did so by cutting it out of the rubber gaskets, which is very much NLA.
Hatch areas are rusty and dented. I'll get some pics. Unfortunately there was a lot of moving these cars about with construction equipment, so what may have once just been rusty is now rusty and smashed. Also, some turd tossed a brake caliper through one of the rear side windows.
I'm aware of the scarcity of that rubber, I plan on snagging those first for safekeeping.
IIRC, is the rear axle on these a pretty easy disc brake upgrade for a 122, but the bolt pattern is different? I'd love to scavenge these for FI and brake booster parts if I was closer. I'm sure there are some great donor pars remaining on these.
Also, how long is your deck trailer? 24'? I eventually want to replace my 18' deck to something longer that can carry a car and my pit UTV.
hobiercr said:IIRC, is the rear axle on these a pretty easy disc brake upgrade for a 122, but the bolt pattern is different? I'd love to scavenge these for FI and brake booster parts if I was closer. I'm sure there are some great donor pars remaining on these.
Also, how long is your deck trailer? 24'? I eventually want to replace my 18' deck to something longer that can carry a car and my pit UTV.
I have a 122 with an 1800ES rear axle in it. This works best for the later 122's ('67 and later) that used a similar rear suspension to the 1800E/ES. The bolt pattern is different, but the 1800E/ES front discs can be swapped over to the 122 as well, giving 4 piston front calipers. Then all 4 wheels are the 1800E/ES bolt pattern which lets you use those wheels or wheels from a later Volvo (240, 740, etc). Which looks pretty sharp.
1800E/ES had a 4.30 rear axle ratio on the manual trans cars, and 4.10 with automatics. My 122 conversion has a 4.30 ratio rear. It was low enough that with a B20E I didn't even need first gear. That was a really hot car. I need to get it back on the road. It used to give V6 mustangs a run for their money.
I do ship parts, if there's anything you want that can fit in a box, I can send it.
I have to measure the trailer, but IIRC it's a 22' flat deck with a 2' turndown in the back. It's a very long 1 car trailer. The axles are 5k each, and the deck is wood. I bought it about 5 years ago, it was about a year or two old when I got it. To fit the two cars I had to pull out the ramps about 18" and strap them in place. It's a little hokey, and the ramps can get hung up over humps and railroad tracks and stuff, but it works. I did it once before a few years ago with a pair of 122's.
In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
Personally, I like the 4.10 with the M41. When we converted my ex's ES to the M41, we didn't change the rear. While off-line acceleration drops a bit, it was never great to begin with and the lower RPMs at hwy speeds is welcome. I would be interested in the 4.10 axle out of the automatic car for my ES.
Ian F (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
Personally, I like the 4.10 with the M41. When we converted my ex's ES to the M41, we didn't change the rear. While off-line acceleration drops a bit, it was never great to begin with and the lower RPMs at hwy speeds is welcome. I would be interested in the 4.10 axle out of the automatic car for my ES.
Come pull it.
In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
Unfortunately, it might be the middle of winter before I have time.
Ian F (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
Unfortunately, it might be the middle of winter before I have time.
If I part the car out before then, the axle will get saved.
I got the green car unloaded from the trailer. Luckily, it had a key. Unfortunately, the red car does not, and the steering column is locked. Since the cars were loaded onto my trailer with a forklift this didn't occur to me as being a problem, but now that I have to figure out a way to get the car off....it is. The wheels are turned slightly to one side, so I can't roll it off.
I started going through the car on the trailer hoping to find the ignition key somewhere. I found a few keys, but none of them fit the ignition lock. I hate to break the lock as that's a saleable part. I may have to unbolt the steering column from the steering box and move the front wheels by hand while I pull it off the trailer with my tractor. So that'll be fun.
Any good inner door handles?
Pete
NOHOME said:Any good inner door handles?
Pete
Found one in the detritus in the hatch area of the red car...it looked really nice and shiny....until I turned it over and saw the castellated bit in the back was all broken off. :-/
Will check the rest of the handles for you today.
EDIT: I see some new on eBay, looks like they're *only* $170 apiece!
The red car seems to have 2 functioning handles, I'll carefully drive out the tiny roll pin and hit them with some lube and see if I can extract them in one piece and get some pictures.
Door handles:
Wow... Those handles look pretty decent. I have the handles from my ES, but don't remember the condition. I'm guessing one or both have cracked "castle" tabs. iRollmotors sells a kit to "fix" it as well as rotate the handle so it's a bit easier to use with the ES arm rest/handle. Personally, I prefer the older style handles, so I have a set of those and plan to build a custom door panels to use those. Customizing the interior is the part of the build I look forward to the most, although I'm sure I'll probably have to do it at least three times before it looks OK.
In reply to Ian F (Forum Supporter) :
Yeah, seems like a simple "castle" could be machined out of round stock and inserted into a machined-out handle. I have another handle or two in the car with broken off tabs that might be able to be repaired this way.
I actually had to buy a new one for the Molvo and it hurt for what they charged.
Tried to repair the one I had and it worked for a week or so. The castlelated design is not ideal when using pot metal and they often break when you try to remove them.
In reply to volvoclearinghouse :
That's basically it. The part is here, although details about how to install it are thin on the website. But if you buy one, Mike at iRoll is generally very helpful after the sale.
It's not cheap at $35, but cheaper than an unbroken handle. Part of the reason for the cost is how many he has to get made in each batch, the up-front costs, then the cost of having that money sitting on a shelf for who knows how long. But if someone has a lathe, a mill and knows how to use them, I can imagine duplicating it wouldn't be too difficult.
Sold a bunch of dash switches and the one unbroken door handle. Might have a buyer for one of the B20F's.
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