Offered to GRMers first! 
Bought this truck a year ago because it was awesome and I’d never seen another one. Still haven’t, in person. It’s best off as somebody’s second vehicle (it was my daily driver and served me well almost all of the time). I’ve done an extensive amount of work towards this being a daily drivable vehicle because that was my goal.
For those who haven’t heard of it, the Courier is a Mazda B1600 in disguise. Ford bought them from Mazda and changed the front end/tailgate to match the rest of Ford’s trucks of the era. The engine is a 1.8L Mazda and it has a 4 speed transmission. This particular example has the original paperwork from the original purchase at Leigh Motors in Round Rock, Texas. Paint color is original.
First off, everybody’s favorite question: Rust. The frame is starting to get surface rust (as any Japanese car of this vintage) but doesn’t have any areas to be concerned about. It should still be blasted or sanded and painted if you want it to last another 40 years. The bed is starting to get some spots, primarily at the back end. Underside of the bed should be blasted and coated as well. The front fenders and bedside are not rusty, as the coating/covering on them is just now peeling off. The cab has rust. The bad spots are at the cowl; each side has a through hole that lets water in. I silicone-d over them but it hasn’t stopped much. They need to be welded shut. Driver’s side floor has a hefty hole right behind the wheel and that whole half of the floor is a little rusty. The passenger floor has rust right up against the door edge of the floor and a hole leads into the rockers so I assume there’s some rust starting there too, but it’s not visible from the outside. Things that are new.. I really don’t know where to start so I’m just going to make a list of all the things I’ve replaced in the last year.
4 new struts
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Inner and Outer Tie Rods
Idler arm
Sway bar Linkage
Upgraded to disc brakes in the front, so…
New Calipers
New Rotors and Brake Pads
New soft brake lines (front)
New Brake Master Cylinder
New front wheel bearings
American Racing AR172 16x8” 0 offset wheels
BFGoodrich Comp 2 A/S in 225/55/R16, maybe 1000 miles on them.
New Clutch Master Cylinder
New clutch Slave Cylinder
Battery (new in December)
Ignition coil, points, condenser, rotor, cap, spark plugs and wires
Valves adjusted in the last month as well
Radiator, water pump, thermostat, Temp sensor, upper and lower hoses
Headlights
Reverse light bulbs
Fuel pump (made in USA unit)
Fuel Filter
Fuel line from tank to hardline
Like I said, the truck has been good to me and I was using it as a daily driver so I intended everything to work correctly. My end goal was to replace the 74hp 1.8l with a 2.3l turbo and a 5 speed and have a really fun, deadnuts reliable truck but I am not in a position to be able to tackle this now. I alternate semesters of school and work in two different states and I am tired of stressing about the commute. I haven’t owned something with 3 digits of HP in two years, and the vehicle before the truck was a 1983. I finally got something from this century that I don't have to worry about at all.
I added some sound deadening to the back wall of the cab. It helped, but the little Spark-o-Matic radio and two speakers don’t drown out the sound at highway speed with the windows down (but it does take a tape player aux cord). It came with Factory A/C and the unit does turn on, but it sounds like there’s something interfering with the blower and it doesn’t blow cold. I didn’t even try to mess with that (made for some good summer fun in South Carolina heat). Heat is there as well but doesn’t work. It looks like somebody disconnected the heater core, so I’m assuming that’s bad.
Bad: The windshield has about a quarter sized blemish in it but it isn’t spreading and may have been repaired years ago. The bench seat has one small cut and one larger split in it but is otherwise okay, driver’s side should get re-springed eventually. A few lug studs are missing, and the driver’s side rear is still reverse thread. After adjusting the valves, one valve cover stud snapped off (not even torqued to 17.5lbs, lol) so those studs should be checked and replaced probably. The valve cover gasket I was sent is cork, so if that’s not your flavor I’d get rid of it. The differential seems to have a slow leak. The passenger fender and door are dented pretty well, and there are several little dings on the body. They never really bothered me. Wipers need a small repair to put them back In action but the motor works. Also, in the last 2 months I seem to have misplaced the mud/splashguard and the air filter cover. I'm pretty positive they're still around, but I moved twice between end of December and mid January
All gauges work, and I average about 25 mpg. Truck will still haul stuff too; curb weight is 2500 but it’s rated for 1000lb of driver and junk. Tachometer is in and works, but I didn’t hook up the light-up function. Only “crack” in dash is a very small split where the original speaker was/is I have found that a junkyard in Palmetto, GA lists that they have fenders and other body parts for spares. The Facebook group for these is actually pretty active, and people do all kinds of stuff to them, from bagging to lifting and offroading.
No title. Georgia owner prior to me de-titled it. Not sure how that will affect registering it outside of GA but bill of sale (of course) and my current registration can be included if you so want. This truck is not for the faint of heart. There is no power steering, no power brakes, and it’s just generally loud. Not for trade, just for sale. $3700 O.B.O. Ask any questions that aren’t dumb. I typed out a lot in an effort to answer most questions I would ask before they’re asked but I probably missed something simple.
Link to pics: http://s1025.photobucket.com/user/laxands13/library/Ford%20Courier?sort=3&page=1
