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Hoondavan
Hoondavan Dork
10/6/24 11:58 a.m.

This has morphed from a for-sale thread into a build thread (much to my disappointment).

Every post on Wranglerforum with a diagnostic question direct people to Wranglerfix.com.  Absent a definitive diagnosis, I called & spoke to the owner of Wranglerfix about my issues. I was a little disappointed with how he just insisted it was the PCM w/out any actual diagnosis.  They have a bunch of TJs in their parking lot to test PCMs.  I was hesitant to ship my PCM off w/out more confidence that was the failure.  In an effort to get the jeep back underneath my house before the last storm I went to the U-pull-in & bought a spare PCM from a 4.0 Grand Cherokee of the same year.  With that PCM installed I could hear the fuel pump priming & it would start & run poorly for 10 seconds, stalling  at 500 rpm.  This gave me confidence that the PCM was the issue.

I paid the $200 repair fee & dropped off my PCM (I was in SoFL for work).  It's a nice business with a good reputation.  A few people on the phone & likely a few techs repair/rebuiding parts.  

Same day they called & said it wasn't repairable & I'd have to pay another $375 for a replacement because the capacitors leaked onto the board.  I wonder if these things are ever deemed "repairable"...but at that point I'm already comitted.  It stings a bit, but that's market rate for a PCM.  Even Jerry the jeep guy in Daytona wanted $600 or more for a used PCM (not rebuilt).   

Apparently there's a hack to use a phone charger to convert 12V to 5V & trick car into seeing a pulse from the PCM.  There didn't seem to be much information on this hack & I really needed to just get it running.

The Jeep is now running so I can get it moved out of the rain before the next storm.  I'd really like to get it sold, but there's a chance I'll have free time this fall to repair the rust before trying to sell it.  It's all up in the air at this point.

Hoondavan
Hoondavan Dork
12/16/24 1:40 p.m.

This continues to be more of a "build thread."

SWMBO said she'd take $3K for it.  Trades are 100% welcome.  

I was backing it down my driveway last week & the brake pedal went to the floor.  I drove over my mailbox, but avoided any other damage.  The front driver-side brake line failed.  I've since replaced it, but the brake front brake bleeder screws can't be removed.  I'll try fire, but will likely just replace the front brake calipers if that doesn't work.  The brakes should work well enough to move it around, but it's not roadworthy until i can bleed the brakes (tonight, hopefully)

I've started to wire-wheel & treat underneath w/rust converter and then fluid-film.  I've loaded my ebay cart with the parts for the torque boxes & the rear frame section....but I'd really prefer to get rid of this thing & work on something else.

 

CrustyRedXpress
CrustyRedXpress Dork
12/19/24 6:01 p.m.
Hoondavan said:

Same day they called & said it wasn't repairable & I'd have to pay another $375 for a replacement because the capacitors leaked onto the board.  I wonder if these things are ever deemed "repairable"...but at that point I'm already comitted.  It stings a bit, but that's market rate for a PCM.  Even Jerry the jeep guy in Daytona wanted $600 or more for a used PCM (not rebuilt).   

Hey, I'm sorry that you're having issues with the jeep. In case anybody reads this in the future, you can absolutely repair a PCM/Radio/whatever where the electrolytic caps have leaked onto the board. Much of the time you just scrape the acid off the copper traces and re-seal with conformal coating. If the acid has eaten away the copper traces then you can bridge the gap with fly-wire, coat with conformal coating and you're good to go. 

Anyway, good luck with the sale!

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