blaze86vic
blaze86vic Reader
9/29/13 7:51 p.m.

Name: Johnnie Location: Hampton Means of contact: PM or email (my username @gmail.com) Price: $8000

Description: 73 Celica Track Car

It's been to a few of the local shows like Spring Fest a couple times (not the most recent). Won second place for Track Car category once. I have done a lot to this car and the "mods list" is almost endless. I have lots of extra parts if you are willing to pay for them (I will not separate prior to car being sold). I take very good care of the car and keep it very clean. BUT PLEASE REALIZE!!!!!! This is a track car. This is a race engine, and it drives like a race engine. The paint is no where near show level. It's very shiny because I polish the heck out of it, not because it is great paint. It has chips, and cracks, there is bondo on the car....ect..... This car is great looking, and phenomenal to drive! If someone spent the $3-5K on a really nice paint job, this would be a $15K+ car. I do not let it see rain EVER!

Audio: Amplified gravel noise with sheet metal rear seat delete.....

Engine info:


As for the age of the engine. I put new bearings in when I put the ultra high comp pistons in, and honed the cylinders. I then did 2000 miles on conventional 20W50 on the highway. I have done 1 drift event, and 5 track events since then. It's been almost 5 years since then. On average I probably run through about 5-7 tanks of gas a year on the street. Figure about 150 miles per tank and you are looking at about 750-1000ish miles a year. Before the last event I upgraded from the Stage III cam to the Stage V cam with all new rockers. I have had the stage V cam in there for about a year and a half. I put new oil and filter in before every event (8 qrts).


Block: 22R LC Engineering resin re-enforced stroker block with crank scraper --------Block has been O-ringed to deal with the very high 13+:1 compression (yes, I run 110 ONLY!) Crank: LC Engineering non-stroker Pistons: CP 12.5:1 dome top forged Connecting Rods: Eagle H Cam: LC Engineering Stage 5 Int. Exh. Valve Lash .008 .012
Valve Lift 510" 510"
Advertised Duration 320° 320°
Duration @ .050" 270° 270°
Lobe Center 104° 104°

Intake Opens 28° BTDC
Intake Closes 62° ABDC
Exhaust Opens 62° BBDC
Exhaust Closes 28° ATDC

Cam Gear: LC Engineering Pro adjustable Intake: Cannon Dual Side draft w/ Port & Polished Heads: LC Engineering Stage 4 20R Headers: Headman Headers wrapped Exhaust: Custom 2-1/2"; Dynomax resonator and Afterburner muffler, under axle. Spark: Dual Crane Cams Firball HI6 (hot switchable backup) (rev limit set to 7600rpm) ---------Crane Cams Firball Coil ---------Accel 8mm Super Spark wires Cooling: 1981 Toyota Corolla (temporary, works great, but have designs ready for new custom radiator) -----------Canton oil cooler -----------Spal electric pusher fan Fuel: No name 130gph fuel pump (needs replacing works fine for the street, but not enough pressure extended abuse, just recently developed) ---------Professional Products Adjsutable fuel pressure regulator Other: LC Engineering underdrive pulley set --------Accusump 3qt with stainless hose --------LC Engineering Pro engine mounts (essentially solid)

Drivetrain Transmission: Toyota W50 all stock (been in car for the past 15+ years) (I have a second W50 with 50k orginal miles on it, I completely rebuilt and restored it and is ready as a spare NOT INCLUDED, but for sale) Driveshaft: stock 2 piece converted to replaceable U-joints and rebuild by Gregory's Driveshafts Differential: TRD 2-way LSD, with 3.90 gears. I have a tone of extra diffs with bad gears as I was tearing them up every event, and finally found a solution (260wt gear oil!). These are included with the car, so you can setup multiple rear ends and just swap them out in a matter of minutes. Many are welded as that is what I used to run at the track. Axles: Stock, I have a second set as well just in case (Included). Axles have also been in the car for 15+ years with no breaking.

Suspension:

[u]!!Car has been corner balanced to perfect 50/50 cross weight with 175lb driver w/ 175lb/in rear springs!![/u]

[U]Front[/U] Poly Bushings on all joints, mounts, and bushings. T3 Adjustable camber plates with needle bearing top mount. Asjustable coil over setup w/ Eibach springs (350lb/in) Koni 8610 Single Adjustable Race Strut Inserts Second Gen Celica front disc brakes w/ Carbotech XP10 pads and stainless hoses.

[u]Rear[/u] Poly bushing upper control arms. Hiem joint aluminum adjustable lower control arms. Hiem joint aluminum adjustable panhard rod. Currently Afco 175lb/in 5"X11" springs (also have 200, and cut 225, both Afco) QA1 Double adjustable shocks (AMAZING SHOCKS!) AE86 rear disc brakes with Carbotech XP8 pads and stainless hoses.

Wheels: XXR 15"X7" +15mm offset all the way around Tires: Bridgstone RE11's (195/50 front (70-80%), 205/50 rear (30-40%) Second Set: Steel 13X7 wheels running GoodYear Spec Ford Racer slicks (50-60%) All four Corners run extra long ARP wheel studs.

Exterior mods Rubber bump deleted Bumpers body color matched GT grill ($500+ if you can find one!) 71-72 Flat tail light conversion (also $500+ if you can find them) Clear front corners lenses LED conversion from front to back including dash lights (over $300 in bulbs) Front corner lights are dual color LED builbs Custom module to allow turn signal operation without hack job wiring to stock signal setup (required for 71-72 Tail lights) Lots of decals on the car!

Interior Corbeau Race seats. Safequip Cam lock 6 point harness. Autopower 4 point cage. 5 Panel Wink Mirror.

Things on the to do list: [u]Important[/u] Replace defective fuel pump

[u]At leisure[/u] Pay for custom radiator and install (better cooling, though not needed as it did fine on 90º+ day on track for 2 hours, but it does make it look way better in the engine bay) Replace windshield seal (included) and install Stainless trim (included)

All the fluids including the transmission have been kept up to date. I run Redline High performance oils in the diff, and the transmission, and either Mobil 1 full synthetic 20W50 or Redline full synthetic 10W60 (a matter of convenience) Brake fluid is about 8 months old, Super Blue racing fluid. Front wheel bearing were replaced and repacked this time last year. All joints are tight and free from play (except body side of panhard rod, not sure why but I cant get a hiem joint to last at all there, it seems to be happy after it develops a slight bit of play, and then never gets worse). Other than that, adjust tire pressures and have fun!

I also have, that could be purchased, a TRD Pace Car chin spoiler, TRD replica chin spoiler, and TRD Trunk spoiler (will let it go for a good deal with the car, trunk spoiler is already painted)

This is a Video from last August at VIR VIR August 2012 Tarheel

If you need more pics, check out my Cardomain Page. Cardomain

carbon
carbon Reader
9/29/13 8:41 p.m.

Will this run on pump gas with that compression?

blaze86vic
blaze86vic Reader
9/29/13 9:41 p.m.

I have never tried, but general rule of thumb with carburated and old school engines is anything above10.5:1 requires 100+. I'm way above that so I run the 110. I have two stations that sell 110 within spitting distance of my home....one that doesn't care that I drive the car there and fill it up with non DOT fuel.

mndsm
mndsm UltimaDork
9/29/13 9:43 p.m.

It might run on e85... if you can find one with actual high enough ethanol content.

blaze86vic
blaze86vic Reader
9/29/13 9:55 p.m.

In reply to mndsm: You probably could but, you would have to re-jet the twin Mikuni's. Since they are so old you are probably going to have to get custom jets made to get all that extra fuel in. It may prove to be a problematic.

mndsm
mndsm UltimaDork
9/29/13 10:01 p.m.
blaze86vic wrote: In reply to mndsm: You probably could but, you would have to re-jet the twin Mikuni's. Since they are so old you are probably going to have to get custom jets made to get all that extra fuel in. It may prove to be a problematic.

Oh I don't doubt that for a second. I never said it was a GOOD idea, only that it was theoretically possible. Beautiful car nonetheless.

blaze86vic
blaze86vic Reader
9/29/13 10:05 p.m.

In reply to mndsm:

It may actually not be that bad. Mikuni PHH carbs, though not around any more, were and are very popular. There may be lots of support for it.

sethmeister4
sethmeister4 Dork
10/3/13 9:34 a.m.

I've seen this car in person at a drift event a number of years ago, and I will vouch that it is friggin' awesome! Whoever gets it will get a really sweet car!

blaze86vic
blaze86vic Reader
10/3/13 9:44 p.m.

Updated post with info on engine age since build.


As for the age of the engine. I put new bearings in when I put the ultra high comp pistons in, and honed the cylinders. I then did 2000 miles on conventional 20W50 on the highway. I have done 1 drift event, and 5 track events since then. It's been almost 5 years since then. On average I probably run through about 5-7 tanks of gas a year on the street. Figure about 150 miles per tank and you are looking at about 750-1000ish miles a year. Before the last event I upgraded from the Stage III cam to the Stage V cam with all new rockers. I have had the stage V cam in there for about a year and a half. I put new oil and filter in before every event (8 qrts).


carbon
carbon Reader
10/5/13 6:22 p.m.

Has it been on a dyno? It'd be interesting to know what a good running 20/22r puts down.

blaze86vic
blaze86vic Reader
10/6/13 8:28 a.m.

In reply to carbon:

It has but there is some room to grow, as I have not dialed in the cam on the dyno. Also as I was going to the track the next weekend I was not able to replace my old crushed, leaking, no muffler exhaust that was on the car before I could dyno it. But here are a couple number for you.

With the stage III cam and 11:1 cr. 165 whp 158 lb*ft

With stage V cam, and 13+:1 cr., but without cam dialing, and without the good exhaust it has now. 165 whp 155 lb*ft

So you see why I say there is more to be had. I would almost lay money that I got another 10 lb*ft after I replaced the exhaust. But you see, dialing in a cam on a dyno takes a bit of time. It took about 6 hours on the dyno last time as I had issues with not running a muffler (didn't realize till afterwards that the lack if muffler had caused it all, I was still waiting for it to show up in the mail). It would probably take about 2-3 more hours and it would be all dialed in, but I try to wait for free dyno time, as I got those six hours for free.

If I was forced to guess where you could get the power, I'd say that you could probably get the trque up to about 170 and the HP up to about 180-190 at the wheels.

blaze86vic
blaze86vic Reader
11/11/13 9:44 p.m.

A simple bump a month.

HeavyDuty
HeavyDuty Reader
11/12/13 10:36 a.m.

Poverty sucks! Man that is beautiful.

motomoron
motomoron SuperDork
11/14/13 2:45 p.m.

FYI - I think Mike Pierce at Pierce Manifolds can support Mikuni jetting, along w/ Weber and Del'Orto.

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