62-66 Chevy/GMC truck ???

My dad had a 66 Chevy when I was a kid. I'm thinking about getting a 62-66 and making it into an occasional DD for him. The problem I know very little about them and I don't know how to weld... I understand the mechanics of things motors suspension etc. But I don't weld. So I know the typical thing to do is get the one in the best mechanical shape and worry about paint later, would it be a better option for me to get one as rust free as possible and then worry about the mechanicals?

So in the last couple of days I've been looking for as little rust as possible contenders but am curious as to your thoughts on these in general? I'm also curious as to your thoughts on getting one that is as rust free as possible but without a drivetrain? Are drivetrain swaps pretty easy on these?

Lastly, these seem like fairly simple machines, is that an accurate assumption?

My father bought a '64 around 1981. It was already rusted out and filled with Bondo by then. So, yeah, try to find one that is as rust free as possible.

Ours had a 230 with three on the tree. Steering had about 1500 turns lock to lock. It had trailing arms and coils in the rear. One of the arms failed on me, the axle shifted and it almost put me into an oak tree. It's worth noting that they have no seat belts, an unpadded steel dash and the fuel tank is inside the cab.

I loved driving it, but it was an absolute death trap.

'62-63 still had the 50's style wrap around windshield. '64 was the first year for the more modern style glass.

I occasionally see these out here in a reasonably rust free state. A southwest truck might be a better starting point.

I had a '66 GMC. After 10 years in the northeast rust had already set in badly. Rust areas are cab floor, cab corners, rocker panels, door hinge pillar to floor, front fenders behind the headlights, rad support, bed floor. Well, you get the idea. Not sure what you'll be able to find in the south but look in these areas for rust.

So, another vote for a SW truck.

Mechanicals are pretty straight forward. A later model SBC and a 700R4 would be a good cheap swap for a DD.

Unless you deliberately want a beater, get one with the best bodywork possible, and worry about the mechanicals later. R&R'ing the engine with a carb'ed motor from the same engine family is about as easy as engine replacements go - a bit of heavy lifting, but arguably easier than changing the head gasket on a late model DOHC motor.

My step dad has a '64 C-10 with a 383 Stroker with a Muncie 4-speed. Good little truck. Too bad they are selling it. I'd buy it if I had the money.

Buy two trucks. First, the best 62-66 body you can find, then a 80's vintage GM with the same wheelbase, and the powertrain you want. Either put the body on the newer frame, or swap the mechanicals, including the front crossmember with brakes and steering. You won't find a much simpler swap- everything comes very close to bolting up. Minor fabrication skills required, mostly around making the fuel tank get out of the cab.

Streetwiseguy wrote: Buy two trucks. First, the best 62-66 body you can find, then a 80's vintage GM with the same wheelbase, and the powertrain you want. Either put the body on the newer frame, or swap the mechanicals, including the front crossmember with brakes and steering. You won't find a much simpler swap- everything comes very close to bolting up. Minor fabrication skills required, mostly around making the fuel tank get out of the cab.

That is a good plan. And I can help with the labor.

Thanks guys. I was unaware of the gas tank in the cab so I'm glad I asked. I know Jeeps, but when it comes to Chevys and Fords I am not the guy you want to talk to. And even though I know what the 62-66 years look like, I don't know the difference between each model year.

Is there a version that is more collectible than others? I'd rather have the less desired one and maybe able to get it for cheaper. For example is the 1964 GMC less than the same year Chevy version. Does having the bowtie cost more?

Also, I realize these trucks are 48-52 years old, and finding an "original" one may not happen. Is there a short version of what drivetrain options were available for what year? I see 6cyl and 8cyl models and everything from 3spds on the tree, 4spds, and 5 spds, and autos. I know it really shouldn't matter since I plan on doing a swap anyways, but was curious.

nicksta if I end up going down this road I will give you a call. I'll put you to work on my projects since you can't have one yet.

If you have the time, this is a good place for information and inspiration.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?s=e6dbaa3e22ce7d03d3c2d5c46118a68e&f=6

The last I heard (a number of years ago), the prices on the older windshields were well over $1k, so getting one that doesn't have the problem might be worth it. The only think you really need from an 80s truck is the front crossmember if you want to swap to 5 lug disc brakes, and you would want a 71-72 rear axle to match (if you get one with the trailing arm rear suspension instead of leaf springs, which you should). Other than that, for sure get one with the least rust and dents you can, and worry about the rest laster, its all easy. This would be a time when an LSx swap would make sense too, but since the result would actually be drivable no one will suggest it

In reply to octavious:

what's your budget for the chassis and drivetrain?

that would narrow it down w/o ideas/ suggestions getting carried away

Read here.

http://6066gmcclub.com/gmcguy/

I always wanted one with a big V6.

My preference would be the 292 Hi-Torque straight six with three-on-the-tree.

Woody wrote: My preference would be the 292 Hi-Torque straight six with three-on-the-tree.

Come on, dude, the GMC V6 was one of the last GMC engines made! Plus, it was very unique, as it was the only US V6 made then. It was huge, too. They made one with as much displacement as a big block V8.

I agree with Woody on the straight six. There isn't an engine out there which I think sounds or feels as good as a straight six. Oh, I'd also do three carbs and headers too.

You can't get the I6 from the factory with plaid valve covers, though.

http://6066gmcclub.com/gmcguy/GMCplaid.html

Bring a Trailer has a 62 listed as of yesterday... http://bringatrailer.com/2014/01/02/clean-1962-chevrolet-c20-long-bed/

These are neat old trucks. They aren't as popular as the '67-'72, but most of the mechanicals are the same. I believe I've read it's not an easy affair to put a pre-73 body onto a post-72 chassis (but it is easy to put a '60-'66 body onto a '67-'72 frame IIRC).

However, as mentioend above, the later ('80s style) front crossmember complete with suspension and brakes bolts onto the earlier trucks rather easily...netting you disk brakes and in some cases, improved suspension.

Up to, I think, '63, the pickups had torsion bar front suspension (not coil springs). It's not a huge deal, but something to know.

Short beds are typcially more desired (to the extent that if I find a longbed, I'll cut it down to a shortbed), so a 2wd longbed would be the not-as-desirable-but-still-quite-cool version you're looking for.

Yes, engine swaps are VERY easy on these. Particularly V8s.

I'm currently on the lookout for a shortbed in either of the two body styles from '60 (though I don't care for the hood on the '60 and '61 trucks) to '72.

Rust really is the biggest downfall of these trucks. Read Tuna55's thread about his truck and rust repair...same issues you'll see on the '60-'66 trucks.

Clem

I had a '67 Chevy truck. "Ol' Yeller." Straight six with somewhere between 2 and 4 hundred thousand miles on it. Almost zero compression, but that meant it would turn over fast and start easy, every time. Unless it was wet. Died at every large puddle. 3 lb weight and a bungie cord to keep it in 3rd gear, house light switch for the horn. Vice-Grip-Like-Tools for the door handle and window. Dr.Linda drove it to TAMU when she wasn't on her Sportster. The parking lot guy would open the door for her to take her money. First time she drove up in the '86 Toyota Truck, he said "Ma'am, you think you're E36 M3tin' in high cotton."

my vote is buy cleanest body you can and worry about drivetrain later. rust sucks. i bought a rusty but great running 68 c20, and now i'm thinking i need to buy a clean roller to stab my 292 into.

patgizz wrote: my vote is buy cleanest body you can and worry about drivetrain later. rust sucks. i bought a rusty but great running 68 c20, and now i'm thinking i need to buy a clean roller to stab my 292 into.

Dang, I haven't heard of a 292 let alone seen one in prolly a couple decades.

fasted58 wrote:

patgizz wrote: my vote is buy cleanest body you can and worry about drivetrain later. rust sucks. i bought a rusty but great running 68 c20, and now i'm thinking i need to buy a clean roller to stab my 292 into.

Dang, I haven't heard of a 292 let alone seen one in prolly a couple decades.

they are glorious. i love my truck. it's currently sitting with a smoked clutch, my dad pulled some logs out of the woods with it and magically the clutch was toast afterward. i'm going to throw a 700r4 in it to make it highway friendly, it screams at 60 now. it may or may not end up all fixed up, or it might just get the trans, power steering and disc brakes, and drive the wheels off it. it's fun to have an old beater truck.

In reply to patgizz:

700R4 FTW