Depends on the Classic. For an MG or Triumph, there's not much that can't be on your doorstep the next day. Same day, for me, but I'm lucky to live in the home of Victoria British.
BMWs aren't far behind. They've done a stellar job of supporting their older cars.
Other cars can be tricky, particularly if they're an orphan. Some classics definitely have difficult or non-existent parts supplies. I'd be wary of using one of them as a DD.
Oddly, it seems a lot of 15-20 year old cars have iffier parts availability than older classics.
Tim:
There is a time after the parent company stops producing parts and before aftermarket kicks in. Generally parts stores will cover this but not for low production numbered models. 10-15 years is about right.
Ron
Carson
HalfDork
3/19/09 5:33 p.m.
I've thought about this some more. Although I'd really like to have a classic as a parts hauler and I have no problems driving one as a daily driver (I've done it with a couple different 30+ year old cars for a few years before I got my "new" car, the Miata), I think I am going to keep the Miata as my primary car and spend any money I would have spent on this idea on my garage.
That is until I find something on CL, or decide to get a Volvo 240 wagon and drop an LSx in it. That'll be content for the GRM board though. I'll keep you posted either way.
wspohn
New Reader
3/26/09 9:28 a.m.
Old Austin pickup, wagon or panel van. Easily updatable to modern brakes and all the MGB stuff is usable.
I love Austin pickups and was seriously considering one in Arizona. It would have needed everything and I didn't want yet another project. The face reminds me of Wallace (Wallace and Gromit) when he says "Cheeessse."
If you hurry, you can pick up an E30 M3 for used car money, have no worries about depreciation, get 30 mpg and have one of the most bad ass cars ever made.
Boxy Volvo wagons are pretty damned cool too!
SAAB 99 or 900 with a hatch. Swallows IKEA furniture like a cheese and cracker snack. NA motors have solid torque down low, especially the "B" engine in the 99. Turbos are fun. Choose an early 8-valve 900 for best all around performance. The 16-valve Turbo has nothing off-boost. Neither will hit your gas mileage target, though.
What about the Acura/Honda NSX? I have just read your May issue and I am genuinely surprised that NSX is not included at a future classic, as a VW rabit and a Mazda Miata was included. Less than 20000 built in the whole world in a span of 16 years, with more than 50% of them built in the first 2 years, how can you not include this car in your article. This car is up there with handling similar of the Ferrari 355, one of a kind aluminum chassis plus suspension, and reliability akin to an Accord (many are 200K mile strong). You can pick an early NA1 for anywhere between 20 to 30K. Am I missing something here?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-Datsun-RL-1600-twin-SU-wagon_W0QQitemZ160327590352QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item160327590352&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A317|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318
Old skool goodness
rjl850
None
4/12/09 10:56 p.m.
Some won't consider this a true classic car -- probably it's not old enough -- but for me a Porsche 944 was the best option and could be for you too. Things in its favor:
They can be had for a song.
It'll get close to 30 mpg on the highway.
You can take 3 or 4 people in a pinch (I've done it).
You can throw your bicycle (for example) in the hatch.
They're made of galvanized steel, so it'll last a long time sitting outside.
The bottom end is good for over 200,000 miles.
Downside: parts are expensive.
rjl850 wrote:
Downside: parts are expensive.
You should have said....
Downside: clutch job takes a month, a cam tensioner tool is required, and parts are crazy expensive.