Alternator changes and upgrades are among the most common underbonnet modifications performed on British cars. We’ve seen hundreds of these swaps performed through the years. While some are appropriate and effective, we’ve witnessed–and fixed–too many that have ultimately caused some sort of expens…
Or just buy a properly engineered kit... like those vailable from Keith Gustafson (who you do list...)
I installed a Bosch alternator from a Ford Fiesta....
Works wonderful
In reply to Dwight : Man, those are no longer available. I installed one in a TR6 years ago and haven't been able to find them for my other Brit cars since.
I would like to add that the "idiot" light wire is more than just for the light, and really should be done - even if you didn't think you needed a light.
When the ignition is turned on, that wire to the light gets powered (as the diagram shows, it has to be keyed power). The power flows through the light to the alternator and charges the coils. Then the second the engine starts going, the alternator is putting out power.
If you don't have this wired this way, the coils ultimately get charged, but the alternator won't put out power until you rev the engine or drive it a little.
If you put the light bulb in the exciter circuit make sure you wire in a 470 -550 Ohm resistor parallel to the light bulb. Without it your system will no longer work if the bulb burns out. This is true of any internal or external regulated system. Also be real careful when you look up a wiring digram on the internet. Some have the POV as looking at the alternator and some are looking at the unplugged connector. If you wire them backwards it will burn out the regulator. The test is to hook up the power lead to the alternator and then (don't start the engine for this) take a 12V test light from power to each lead. When the light comes on you found the "I" lead. The other lead will be the voltage sense wire "A" if there are 3... Start the car with the I lead connected. Have a volt meter on the output. Touch one of the remaining wires to a 12 volt source. As soon as the voltage starts to rise you found the sense wire. The 3rd wire is not used for any DIY install. You don't need to ask how I learned this. It was very expensive. Internal regulators have no miswire protection. They assume that people are just replacing their existing regulator so the wiring will always be correct. Most replacement alternators dont have the I or A terminals marked o for the same reason
pharriso said:Or just buy a properly engineered kit... like those vailable from Keith Gustafson (who you do list...)
Same. GM 1 wire is the golden ticker for these kits. Every generator motor i have that is not a Flathead is running a 1 wire GM now.
That reminds me, I should put a 1-wire in my '66 Cadillac. It eats voltage regulators. I installed on in my '67 Land Rover decades ago and converted to negative earth at the same time. It was ridiculously simple.
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