The garage attached to the house just isn't cutting it any more now that I've bought a 3rd TR8. Plus the wife just never really got the concept that the garage was not supposed to also be a place to store her junk.
The contractor has been over and is coming back with an estimate soon. It's a stand alone 24 X 36 garage on the property. It will be for the TR8's only and I'm surrendering the garage attached to the house.
For you seasoned shop owners - what things should I not omit other than a beer fridge and cot/sleeping bag.
? Any suggestions for floor surfaces, etc?
I'm not sure where you are, but if you get snow, then maybe heat. And a high full ceiling, high enough to clear your lift, and so that the heat doesn't all go up to the peak. Insulation, too.
Maybe build in some plumbing for air, so you don't have to drag the compressor around.
Stu
Rupert
Reader
4/27/13 11:06 a.m.
You'll need high voltage for electric, things like welders, big air compressors, etc. I agree with tiger you definitely need to allow for space for your car to clear when on a lift.
Speaking of lifts, you don't need a hole anymore for one. But be sure you get one that lifts the tires when you want to work under the body/frame & can also lift the frame when you work on wheels, brakes, etc.
As far as floor surface, I had better luck with a really good concrete sealer than any of the tiles or other things many people use. I want to be able to scrub everything totally off the floor. Speaking of which, I suggest a drain system that you can use to separate petroleum products and sludge from the water.
You want to seal your drain 99% of the time. But from time to time you will probably need to de-slime. I like a fairly fine grid in the drain top for the water to drain through while catching the small screws & such. Then I use a air powered industrial diaphragm pump to pump the fluid into a holding tank to let the petro. products rise to the top so I can skim them off. Then I dispose of the water and clean the sludge from the bottom of the tank if needed.
If I were building a garage, I would probably go with stained concrete floor finish. Even professionally installed epoxy doesn't seem to hold up.
I would also consider PEX in floor heating. You don't have to install the heat source until later.
24 X 42 because the City Fathers say that's as big as it can be on my foot print.
Poured footing 5 ft. down, block built up 18" above grade. Wood frame from there up.
11 foot ceilings are nice, a little more difficult to heat here than in the South. Storage up above is a must. This one has 8ft. headroom above X 13 ft. wide. I have a block & tackle to haul up wheels and tires and a come along to lift cars. Really, that's how I get the body off the frame.
I drop a curtain between the front and rear so I only heat up the rear.
A roll type door in back makes for a nice breeze and affords an exit in case of flammable mishaps.
A potting shed out back quells the villagers that insist on charging your ramparts with non-car silliniess.
The metal roof is more expensive than shingles, but there's no plywood. In the build it's actually cheaper and lasts 35 years. Order it to length so all six surfaces are painted.
