Tech Tips: MGB

As other classic ’60s and ’70s sports cars grow more and more expensive, MGBs are still a bargain at $5000-$20,000. It’s hard to beat their combination of classic, beautiful looks and exciting driving characteristics. Great support and parts availability also make these roadsters easy to own.–Stev…

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Love the pic in the accompanying CMS article. The car literally corners on the rocker panels when stock.

Hey, they forgot to mention a v8 really livens them up as well

I was thinking that I managed to address every single one of these problems in my MG. Took a couple of years, but the end result makes more power, gets better fuel economy, weighs the same, has easier to find parts and a better suspension.

the staff of Motorsport Marketing wrote: As other classic ’60s and ’70s sports cars grow more and more expensive, MGBs are still a bargain at $5000-$20,000. It’s hard to beat their combination of classic, beautiful looks and exciting driving characteristics. Great support and parts availability also make these roadsters easy to own.–Steve Rollin EXPERT: Steve Rollin [Northwest Import Parts](http://www.northwestimportparts.com/) 10042 SW Balmer Portland, OR 97219 (503) 245-3806 These cars can be divided into two main groups: years 1962- ’74 and years 1975-’80. Generally, we like to address reliability before performance. Early cars typically see the most improvement after receiving the following the upgrades. The first is an electronic ignition conversion. Converting to a more modern system will eliminate points and condensers. At the same time, you can cut down on maintenance time and money. The stock exhaust systems are prone to rust, as many classic exhausts are. A good stainless-steel exhaust system won’t rust and will last a lifetime. This is one of the more popular upgrades. Aluminum valve covers can help eliminate oil leaks. Bonus: They look fantastic under the hood. Early MGBs also came with a point-type fuel pump. Switching to a solid state fuel pump is more reliable.

I'm afraid I have to disagree with you here.. The stock SU fuel pump is marvelously reliable once you understand some maintenance is required.. The points need periodic cleaning. Slide a 1 inch long piece of 1000 grit wet or dry sand paper through the points every other oil change.. Why do you think they made the cap so easy to take off? Second a drop or two of engine oil at the pivot point on the spring for the points will have your stock SU fuel pump last as long as the one in my 1953 MGTD (it's now on it's 5th decade) It's traveled back and forth across country, been vintage raced extensively, ignored for years, and if I go down into the shop and turn the key I'll hear the tick, tick, tick, of the pump filling up the carbs..

I also happen to disagree about the need for electronic ignition.. Setting points is a pleasant job and they will last a very long time if periodically wiped clean with a piece of 1000 grit wet or dry sandpaper.. But don't forget to lube the cam the points run on Use high dielectric grease sparingly Plus spares are so compact they easily fit in any toolbox or glove box. There for a while cheap non-Lucas Rotors would fail due to too high a carbon content in them.. Replacements from suppliers such as Moss Motors no longer have that issue but were the cause of many good distributors being replaced out of frustration.

oldtin wrote: Hey, they forgot to mention a v8 really livens them up as well

As does a supercharger without destroying the resale value..

Yeah, a supercharger will bring a B almost up to the awe-inspiring power level of a 1.6 Miata.

Keith Tanner wrote: Yeah, a supercharger will bring a B almost up to the power level of a 1.6 Miata.

If you can get it to run long enough to dyno!

In reply to frenchyd:

Emery cloth is the better abrasive to use since it does not leave bits of sand on the points.

Cheers Ron

frenchyd wrote:

oldtin wrote: Hey, they forgot to mention a v8 really livens them up as well

As does a supercharger without destroying the resale value..

V8 values are as strong as original cars if not more. They built a gazillion so I'm not too concerned that none will be preserved.

The late rubber bumpered cars are pretty bad - poor handling, compromised performance. If you can find a non-rusty early car, you won't have to spend the extra few thousand just to get the late car up to the starting point for the early cars.

I have a 71 MGB and will one day pull it out of the pole barn and restore it.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

Keith, What year is your MGB and what did you change? For example if you got rid of the ZS carb what did you replace it with?

It's a 1971 GT. The carburetor was replaced with fuel injection.

And I also changed the rest of the engine for a 5.7L LS1, the trans for a 6-speed, the front suspension for a Miata setup, the rear suspension for a custom three-link based on a Blazer axle with a Camaro diff, the brakes were converted to power assist with Miata calipers, the steering column and combination switch is from a Miata, the speedo is an electronic Smiths unit, the center console is from a '69, the radiator is for a V8 Miata conversion, the body was widened with sheet metal from a Rabbit, the fuel tank was cut apart and given better baffling, the fuel pump is a Pierburg high pressure unit, the battery was moved to the "basement" by the spare and the entire structure was reinforced.

So it got a few things done. A lot of the regular readers here know of the car, so it was a bit of a tongue-in-cheek comment.

In reply to Keith Tanner :

I looked at your profile after I asked the question. I then realized that power was not a problem.