wawazat said:
The steel trans cooler line on our 2010 rusted away about 5 years ago. I bought a new OEM steel line but the fasteners were so far rusted that they were round and I didn't want to damage the radiator trying to remove them. I bought a piece of oil resistant rubber hose and used that instead. I zip tied it to the crusty metal tube.
Today I followed in the footsteps of the great wawazat. 3 feet of TOC hose and 4 zip ties later, Ody is leak-free. I took this opportunity to do a 2-quart spill and fill, and saved half a quart for topping off after I take her for a drive.
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2024/11/06/img_8728_thumb.jpeg)
just a tick shy of 268k.
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2024/11/06/img_8730_thumb.jpeg)
Emboldened by my successful trans fluid leak fix, today i tore into the inoperative power sliders. Doctors Google and YouTube concurred that my battery drain and inop power sliders have a common cause: crudded up latch mechanisms not tripping one of the micro switches, which tells the BCM "door position unknown". This keeps the BCM awake at night. And during the day. It seems Honda door latch grease is similar to Shimano shifter grease, in that it hardens over time and doesn't let the latches move as intended. It took me 90 minutes and zero dollars per side to disassemble, clean, lube, and reassemble. Now, both power sliding doors open and close properly. I will repeat the parasitic draw test tomorrow, weather permitting.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
Busy boi!
wawazat
SuperDork
11/7/24 8:13 p.m.
Early retirement suits the dude well!
In reply to QuasiMofo (John Brown) and wawazat:
I've got time to save money, that's for sure!
Woohoo, the internet was right! Now that the "closed" position switches on the power sliding doors are working, the BCM goes to sleep as it should, and the battery no longer dies in 3 days. Today was day 5, and she fired up just like new. I'm calling that a win.
wawazat
SuperDork
11/12/24 7:14 p.m.
I'm doing rhe same job on our Ody this weekend. Yay!
wawazat said:
I'm doing rhe same job on our Ody this weekend. Yay!
I broke all four of the sunshade clips on mine. IDK if there's a video on how to remove them without breaking them.
wawazat
SuperDork
11/13/24 6:33 a.m.
Thanks for the heads-up Patrick. I'll keep that in mind.
Never thought I'd be reading a post about a van... Great story. Power read it on my on my last road trip.
Some questions for ya. Hopefully not too many cob webs have formed....
Grease fittings. How were your able to drill and tap the hole and keep the metal shavings out?
Silver Stars. How have yours been holding up. I've been using now for 2-3 years. Love the extra light. Don't love the shorter life and how quickly they dim.
Majestic Parts online. I've ordered 95% of my parts from them 2000-2015 Had always had good luck back in the day. Haven't seen that name around in a while.
267K. Sounds like you've really gotten your monies worth. Appears all those small electrical parts and emissions sensors have been holding up well. I figure my Honda was getting past its worth while life at about 35 yrs of age at 270K. Seems like yours can kick it for a while.
greasemonkeyreborne_5x1gs said:
Grease fittings. How were your able to drill and tap the hole and keep the metal shavings out?
i think i smeared a blob of wheel bearing grease on the drill bit and the ball joint
Silver Stars. How have yours been holding up. I've been using now for 2-3 years. Love the extra light. Don't love the shorter life and how quickly they dim.
OK so far. The lenses are yellow again, so i'm going to go back to the RustOleum WipeNEW kit which gave longer-lasting results.
Majestic Parts online. I've ordered 95% of my parts from them 2000-2015 Had always had good luck back in the day. Haven't seen that name around in a while.
yep, they're still good.
263K. Sounds like you've really gotten your monies worth. Appears all those small electrical parts and emissions sensors have been holding up well. I figure my Honda was getting past its worth while life at about 35 yrs of age at 270K. Seems like yours can kick it for a while.
In a truly unexpected twist, my wife and I decided to store the RS6 *and* SS for the winter; she's going to drive the Saab (she loves that car!), and I'm going to drive the Odyssey. I've never had a 300k car, so that's my new goal. She needs pads and rotors and caliper kits all around, and a valve adjustment. And the starter makes a weird groan on release when it's cold out, so maybe a starter too. And the Odyssey continues.
Glad your keeping the Ody. Seems like you can get another 40k out of her wo issue.
sanded down lenses on IS300's. Clear coated w a spray bomb. They yellowed again after 3 years. Looked great the first couple years. They're peeling a little bit now. Dealership wanted $1000 per lens. Appears not many options
i bought some led 9004 halogen replacement for the silver stars. I'll let you know how it works. And if a tight focal pattern
I miss glass headlights.
thnx for the feedback!
Today was oil change day. I should have scrolled back a page on this thread, would have saved me 3 quarts of ATF from premature spill and fill. Oh well, can't hurt a transmission by giving it fresh fluid.
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2024/12/30/img_9299_thumb.jpeg)
With winter here, the old halogen headlights can use all the help they can get, so I picked up a Meguiar's polish and clearcoat kit. Before:
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2024/12/30/img_9302_thumb.jpeg)
and after:
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2024/12/30/img_9306_thumb.jpeg)
And a straight on glamour shot just because:
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2024/12/30/img_9307_thumb.jpeg)
Then Ody took a page from the BMW playbook and gave me the trio of yellow warning lamps for ABS, traction control, and stability control. I don't have a code reader for anything other than OBD2, so gonna have to ask around and borrow one.
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2024/12/30/img_9300_thumb.jpeg)
Still, she hasn't cost us much over 10.5 years and 221k miles. Onward to 300k!
Polishing those lights make her look new again
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2025/01/02/img_9338_thumb.jpeg)
The Bill and Ted is strong with this one.
Also, the yellow brake warning lights went away on their own. Not gonna worry about them for now.
In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2025/01/02/image_thumb.png)
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2025/01/20/img_9471_thumb.jpeg)
I ordered pads and rotors and pins and boots for all four corners the other day. Not sure I can put another 30k on this old van though, as I don't drive much these days and I'll have the spicy Malibu back in a couple months.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter)
Not sure I can put another 30k on this old van though, as I don't drive much these days and I'll have the spicy Malibu back in a couple months.
She doesn't seem to be near the "this old house" syndrome yet. I'm rooting for 50k plus!,
im really impressed to see how well the body has held up w the Michigan salt. Glad to see it's gotten good care and Honda had to have made improvements on corrosion protection. Our Japanese 80's cars rotted away living there back in the day.
In reply to greasemonkeyreborne_5x1gs :
The van is not the question. My tolerance and usage profile are the question. It definitely makes sense to keep her around for doing truck-like things and carrying my MtB.
MonZora fired right up in 28°F ambient air and drove out of the garage without issue, which made room for Ody to get some love.
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2025/01/27/img_9526_thumb.jpeg)
She's getting Bosch rotors and Akebono pads at all four corners. Pulsation from fronts was horrible, so that's where I started. Old and busted:
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2025/01/27/img_9517_thumb.jpeg)
New hotness:
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2025/01/27/img_9518_thumb.jpeg)
I always open the bleeders before pushing pistons in, then refill the reservoir and leave the bleeder screws open for a bit, to get fresh fluid throughout the system.
Tomorrow I will tackle the brakes on the rear axle. I noticed one guide pin boot on each rear caliper was berkeleyed the last time I took a close look (edit: entry on Page 5 of this thread says I made that discovery on 10/1 of 2023), so I bought all new pins and boots as well.
Onward to 300k. Less than 30k to go!
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2025/01/27/img_9522_thumb.jpeg)
Rear brakes did not put up a fight. Even the guide pins with missing boots were still free, if a bit stiff. The only one that was not sliding was the lower pin on passenger side, which led to tapered pad wear.
Old and busted:
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2025/01/28/img_9541_thumb.jpeg)
New Hotness:
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2025/01/28/img_9538_thumb.jpeg)
New pins, boots, and pads. I put a little anti-seize on the abutments before snapping the stainless clips in place, to help prevent rust jacking that can stop the shoes from sliding properly.
And the brake guy has good brakes again.
Edit: I found two nails in the right rear tire. One made bubbles when dabbed with soap, the other did not. Still, I marked both locations and threw it in the cargo hold, and put on a non-winter tire while I wait for Belle Tire to patch it up.
Edit2: the brake guy *almost* has good brakes again. Combination of possibly larger ID of new rotor hats plus possibly lower friction of GeoMet coated drum surface means the parking brake doesn't hold her stationary. So when I pull it in to change the right rear tire, I'll pull both rears and put a couple clicks on the drum-in-hat adjusters.
Belle Tire had the leak patched and ready for pickup before closing yesterday, so last night I adjusted park brake on both sides and put the Blizzak back in place. Can confirm park brake kicks ass again.
There's an access window in face of rotor hat, for adjusting park brake shoes without removing caliper and rotor. There's a nice rubber plug in the access window. If you push too hard when replacing said plug, you get to remove the caliper and rotor to retrieve said plug.
![](https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/prod.mm.com/uploads/2025/01/29/img_7480_thumb.jpeg)