280Z?

Alright, a reasonably priced 280z has popped in locally. Still working through the "is it a scam/rust bucket" factor, but assuming that pans out: I know next-to-nothing about them, but have always thought they looked like a fun car. What should I be looking for (aside from the obvious rust issues) that's going to quickly take this from a reasonably priced car to a money pit? It would be mostly a weekend driver/autocross possibly track-day car. I'm also hoping to improve my wrenching skills on something that's simpler and that I don't have to drive to work on Monday. Thoughts? Opinions?

I had one once. 1980 10th Anniversary Edition with an autotragic. It was Burgundy with gold striping and a tan leather inteior. It was a horrible car. That said, it had enough good qualities for me to always wonder what a proper stick-shift one with no options to weigh it down and choke the power would drive like.

Also, they all have rust. Mine was a 70K mile garaged creampuff and it still had cancer.

I have a 78 280Z. They make good track cars but if your serious about autocross they aren't competitive unless you invest cubic dollars. The drive trains are almost bullet proof if reasonably well maintained. Mine had 250K before I rebuilt the motor and it still looked good. The body of course will rust off around it. Besides the normal body rust the rot you need to look for is under the battery tray, frame rails, rocker panals and floors. Dig deep and look hard. They all rust, it's just a mater of finding it.

Not really that worried about the autocross performance. I don't expect it to be a front runner, and the local club has a "vintage" class that allows older, over-matched cars to run for fun. I've heard rust is the ultimate issue with these. I suspect that it may be the issue with this one. The photos are distant and not well focused, that's usually a sign . . . Javelin, by horrible do you mean underpowered/rust riddled or are there common mechanical issues?

Mine was loaded (power steering, windows, locks, etc) and halk of it didn't work. The sunroof leaked. The engine was gutless (lots of smog crap, the power steering pump, and the first ever catalytic convertor choking it down). Everything under the car rusted. None of the panels lined up (original paint, never been hit car). I didn't own it long enough to find out anything else.

I see a black and light blue turbo around every once awhile that makes me want one again though. Again, I'd go for the most base model, hardtop car you can find with a stick. Point out all the rust (cause it will have it) and buy it cheap.

@Javelin,

In case there's confusion here, you're talking about a 280ZX. Which is a softer car than the first gen Zs. And yours sounds like it was weighed down more than most. And a slushbox to boot. ewww.

Anyways, a first gen Z in decent shape with a manual (5 speed available in 77, standard in 78 in North America) should be a fun car, assuming it's not Swiss cheese.

The obvious rust issues might not be so obvious.

Stomp hard on the floorboards, especially near the seat mounts. Crawl under and get an eyeball on the chassis (some of them have major structural issues, like fist-sized rot holes), check the strut towers and pan.

Enjoy!

My 240Z, which is essentially the same structurally, appeared to be fairly rust free (CA-AZ car), but when I started taking it apart, I found several issues. The area above the tail lights was totally unexpected. It was hidden and the hatch was excellent. The battery box area is a mess, but I have a new patch section to go in it's place. Floor pans are perfect, but upper firewall is not.

Around the rear tail lights, hatch, battery box, floors, firewall, wheel wells, you name it and it can rust there. Mechanically they are pretty sound cars, but structurally they rot. Unless it's been restored and the rot has been cut out, I've not seen a completely rust free early Z in years.

Several years back I had an '83 ZX my dad bought new given to me. It was garage kept it's entire life and had low, low mileage. But yet, it was also rusting in the usual places.

Yes, rust is the enemy here. Expect to find some and either live with it as God's own lightening material, or plan to fix it!

Hybrid Z is a great resource for 240-280Z's. It's primarily a forum about swapping different engines into the Z's, but also has an incredible amount of info on everything else to do with repairing, maintaining and modifying the cars, including the original engine (info ranges from junk yard brake upgrades, to late model Corvette suspension swaps). Members even pooled cash to rent a wind tunnel to test different aftermarket body parts to see what did the best to reduce front end lift.

As for what to look at when buying one, as others have said, just look for rust everywhere. Replacements frame rails and floor pans are available, but if you can avoid having to replace them you'll be much better off.

Good luck, Bob

i was checking out a 76 280z that i was lusting over and found mooost of it to be beuatiful but there was substancial rust/rot through out the front clip particularly up top behind the headlights. the way the sheet metal comes together right there it practically makes a bird bath. i found that that, combined with the smogable year and the autotragic didnt justify the 7k asking ...just my 2c on the matter

and the car is being offered in Michigan too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tY5x8pF512k&feature=related

Ah, yeah, mine was a 280ZX, a different animal by a bit from the original 240/260Z. I keep forgetting they made a 280Z too. They all rust though. Mine had the bendy floorboards, leaky hatch floor, and suspension mount rot.

There's a few authoritative responses here and I'll add my 2 cents. I currently own 9 Z cars...

Five 240Z's and four 280ZX's; 3 show cars, 2 race cars, 2 project cars and 2 parts cars.

The most common rust issues are under the battery tray, the spare tire well, the rear hatch deck, the dog legs and rocker arms and the bottom of the window frame and front cowl.

That being said, the drive trains are absolutely bullet proof. I've rebuilt motors with over 250k miles on them and still had the honing marks on the cylinder walls. If they're even moderately cared for, they will last multiple lifetimes.

The biggest mechanical problems are with the fuel injected models. 280Z's and ZX's are famous for vacuum leaks that have a detrimental effect on the FI and the wiring on these cars was inadequate in the 70's and 80's let alone by today's standards.

Replacing EVERY SINGLE vacuum hose and checking and cleaning EVERY SINGLE electrical connection will remedy the vast majority of problems with these cars. The FI is extremely simple to begin with and even easier to replace with a MegaSquirt system easily had from DIYautotune.com.

With the right information and support group (and the Z community is probably the most prolific of ANY marque from this era) these can be fun and reliable.

Your best bet is to find one in the best condition possible.

Cheers, WW

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Unfortunately, the deal is starting to look pretty shady. Seller says he's in another state wants to show the car through a third party. Its being offered "as is", but at least so far, hasn't answered exactly what "as is" really is. Still mildly interested, but I don't expect much out of it.