2nd Gen Accent

I'm gonna buy one of these next weekend unless I stumble on a smoking deal for something else.

I like the lightness. I like the Alpha's ability to take boost. I am overly confident in my ability to make anything handle well.

So, what are some good steps to take to make one into a hotrod? Parts interchangeability between Elantras and Tiburons interests me a lot. I need to stay with a 1.5L displacement, btw.

Help?

Where is Bobzilla?

I had a 1999 that I slapped a turbo onto. Now it's a NA rally cross car.

Stock 1.5 motor with a small (t25?) turbo on a home made manifold. I used the Tib injectors, Tib throttle body (new flange welded onto the intake manifold), a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, and an Apexi AFC.

Suspension wise it had K-Sport coil overs, a Whiteline rear bar and strut tower braces.

It was a fun project.

If you want better wheel choice, swap to the next generation hubs all the way around to get 4x100 without the bolts on the rotor surface.

Great looking little rig. Man, I'd love to take that for a spin. :) Was it as torquey as I imagine?

I'm actually looking exclusively at the generation after yours. Does that one use the same wheel pattern/hubs as the Elantra/Tib? I'm thinking I could use Elantra or Tib parts for a cheap, factory big brake kit is all.

First gen's used the 4x114 bolt pattern, 2nd Gen came with 4x100 and the same offset as Hondar's. Wheel choices should be through the roof. A 15x7 with a 195/50/15 is a nice fit, a 205/50 will be fine with a 40-42 offset. It's the first generation with a full perimeter subframe up front, so structural stiffness is much improved over the previous gen.

Later Scoupe turbo mainfolds are a direct bolt on, opening the door for turbo options.

Bobzilla wrote: First gen's used the 4x114 bolt pattern, 2nd Gen came with 4x100 and the same offset as Hondar's. Wheel choices should be through the roof. A 15x7 with a 195/50/15 is a nice fit, a 205/50 will be fine with a 40-42 offset. It's the first generation with a full perimeter subframe up front, so structural stiffness is much improved over the previous gen. Later Scoupe turbo mainfolds are a direct bolt on, opening the door for turbo options.

I hadn't even thought of using an Scoupe manifold. That's way easier than making something out of weldels like I was thinking.

Is it a good idea/possible to swap over the 114.3X4 from the Elantra/Tiburon and use the bigger brakes? I've heard the 2g Accent has some pretty anemic brakes.

Lastly, is it possible to use suspension parts like struts and control arms from the Elantra/Tib?

In reply to Gimp:

Andy is that you? (can't think of too many Accent rally-x cars from Maryland that were turboed in a previous life)

No idea on those two. In theory (here we go!) it shouldn't be that difficult. The front knuckles are held in place the same way (two bolts for hte stut, ball joint on the bottom and the tie rod at the rear for the front, two lower cross arms and a trailing arm with a macstrut up top for the rear). But I've never had the two apart at the same time to compare.

The brakes on ours were anemic. The rear drums were just a tic over 8"x1.5" and the front rotors are a "massive" 9.4" x .75". So yeah, they are definitely anemic.

I might have to try. I've seen OEM XD Elantra brakes (with better pads, of course) stand up to lapping in 350 hp cars with big tires, so I'm sure would be more than enough for a 2200 lb car and I'd like to keep factory stuff wherever possible.

captdownshift wrote: In reply to Gimp: Andy is that you? (can't think of too many Accent rally-x cars from Maryland that were turboed in a previous life)

Not Andy, just his hetero-life-partner. I bought the car back in the day from CarMax, built and raced it a bunch, and then sold it to him. He now looks after it for me.

Watching this thread with interest! 2nd-gen Accents are all over the Toronto area. (So are Elantras, nudge nudge, wink wink, say no more.)

Look what I found ...

FRONT BRAKE CONVERSIONS

Sonata/Tiburon GT 11" brakes and 4x100 bolt pattern Left and right 1999-2000 J2 Elantra front spindlesLeft and right 2003-2008 Tiburon GT calipers with mounting bracket and hardware (non-SE)A set of front brake pads for a 2003-2008 Tiburon (non-SE)A pair of 11" 2004 Sonata rotors (with ABS) re-drilled for 4x100 bolt patternA pair of 2000-2006 LC/LC2 Accent hubs*You could also do the swap using Tiburon SE calipers and pads, but you can't mix and match calipers and pads

Sonata/Tiburon GT 11" brakes and 4x114.3 bolt pattern conversionLeft and right 1999-2000 J2 Elantra spindles with hubsLeft and right 2003-2008 Tiburon GT calipers with mounting bracket and hardware (non-SE)A set of front brake pads for a 2003-2008 Tiburon (non-SE)A pair of 11" 2004 Sonata rotors (with ABS)*You could also do the swap using Tiburon SE calipers and pads, but you can't mix and match calipers and pads

J2 Elantra 10.1" brakes and 4x114.3 bolt pattern conversionLeft and right 1999-2000 J2 Elantra spindles with hubsLeft and right 1999-2000 J2 Elantra calipers with mounting bracket and hardwareA set of front brake pads for a 1999-2000 J2 ElantraA pair of 1999-2000 J2 Elantra rotors

Cool! From your info, we can assume that 2003-2008 Tiburon brakes were the same except for the high-end SE. However, the internets inform me that those cars had at least 16-in. wheels, and some of them had 17s. Is a 16-in. wheel going to fit on an Accent?

Also, what's the deal with the rear brakes in a conversion like this? Is it best to just leave them alone and let the massive new front brakes do all the work, or what?

The Sonata used 4x114 bolt pattern with the Elantra and it's 11" rotor is a direct fit onto the XD(01-06) chassis but must use the Tiburon (SE or no, SE's are aluminum, non-Se's are steel) with Tiburon pads and the Sonata rotor. direct bolt on affair. The Tiburon uses a 5x114 bolt pattern on the GK platform (02-08).Rear calipers and pads are the same on all the GK/XD cars with the only difference being the 4bolt XD rotor compared to the 5bolt GK.

I did the Sonata swap into my 02 XD (I was the first to use the Sonata rotors as until that point everyone was having the Tib rotors re-drilled). With the rear drums, it made a monstrous improvement in braking even using crappy cheap pads.

Now if the front hubs are the same diameter from the J2/XD as the Accent (MC) then you may be lucky and just be able to press out the old, press in the new and go from there.

15" wheels WILL CLEAR the Sonata/Tib brake upgrade, but only certain types. The OE steel wheels do not clear, the 15" 5-spoke Tib/Elantra GT wheels barely clear. Enkei RPF-01's will also clear. This is the old elantra with the big brake kit wearing 195/50-15 Toyo's on 15x7 Icon's:

And here's the Accent on wheels with identical specs (15x7, +38 offset) wearing 195/50/15 tires:

Stealthtercel wrote: Cool! From your info, we can assume that 2003-2008 Tiburon brakes were the same except for the high-end SE. However, the internets inform me that those cars had at least 16-in. wheels, and some of them had 17s. Is a 16-in. wheel going to fit on an Accent? Also, what's the deal with the rear brakes in a conversion like this? Is it best to just leave them alone and let the massive new front brakes do all the work, or what?

I don't know. I'm probably going to use the 10.1 inchers at first, keep the stock rears and run a master cylinder off of a front disc, rear drum Elantra. I'll take the Elantra hub, spindle, calipers and caliper brackets and bolt in the entire thing. If that proves insufficient, I'll swap on Sonata/Tiburon disks, calipers and brackets on the 1g Elantra spindle/hub.

Also, with the smaller rear drums on the Accent, it should theoretically get me some rearward brake bias.

I like these little cars for sure,not sure I'd spend much effort on them to add boost/power without being able to include a decent helical diff into the mix.One tire on fire is pretty sucky,I drove one of these in the street studded ice race class last yr and it worked ok only but spun one wheel always seriously hurting potencial.

Have you had the same problems on not-ice?

I did not have that problem on anything but snow/ice with stock power levels, and even then it was a mild slip and then go. It was likely the best winter vehicle we had besides the 4wd GV that we had long before it.

I never drove the car on anything other than ice,back to back with either tractionized non studded tires or with the street legal studded tires.

With non studded you could clearly feel both fronts spinning and washing across the track in the corners.With studs that all dissapeared and only one tire spinning.Only difference was added grip.

I assume that trend of adding grip/power would extend off the ice somewhat.

The reason I wanted a 12 valve was for pistons. I read somewhere that 16 valve heads don't play nicely with Scoupe Turbo pistons. Is this true?

It looks like that 4th valve doesn't play nicely with Scoupe Turbo Pistons. Honestly, I do have an angle grinder, so I'm not sure this is a deal breaker.

iadr wrote: Stay away from the common 1.5 3V SOHC. The 1.6 DOHC is a better design, and was carried forward to late 2011 when the present timing chain/DI engine came out. The 1.5 lacks a timing belt idler that the 1.6 has, and...thus with all new stock belt and tensioner on a 1.5, you rev it to 3K with the cover off and you will see the belt blur. That resonance cuts the timing belt life in half, even worse if you rev it a lot. I've seen them go on gently driven 40K cars that were barely over 2 years old. Also 1.6 is generally the only way you got 4v/cyl vs 3v/cyl. There was a 1.5 DOHC, but it was very rare...and not in the 2nd Gen (1st gen only). For the record, it was pretty much the same as a 1.6, just older and with with less bore or stroke, I forget which.

Wow.... just .... wow. Drove a 12V 1.5 for 250k miles. Changed the belt every 60-70k miles. No discernable wear on it at those intervals. Car was purchased with 106k and still on the original timing belt. Since it takes all of about 30 minutes to change it, it's not a big issue.

I drove one today, a 99 with the 1.5 DOHC. It was surprisingly quick for just 104 hp and not liking to rev. I liked the steering as well. The suspension is super soft and the gear change isn't great, but I think this could make an awesome little car with some suspension and a little more power.

Sombody has a complex.