I'm looking for an autocrosser/HDPE car. All the good cars are on c-list an hour away...

Car #1 - 1985 325e, 251k miles on car/motor, 100k on transmission. 5-speed swapped in for auto. Limited slip diff. Seller says needs a complete exhaust, there's one on now that's "junk" and the cat was previously hacked out of the stock exhaust. Has a surging idle and "needs TLC" along with paint and repair of one small rust spot. Seller is motivated, recently dropped asking price from $1k to $600.

Car #2 - 1989 325ix, 162k miles, "needs some work", has recent timing belt, new front struts ready to install. Asking $2k. No pics.

Car #3 - 1990 325i coupe at a dealer. 200k miles, interior looks absolutely perfect, exterior has a minor dent but the paintwork looks superb. The "V6" has been "maintained on time". Asking $2995.

I'm going to make arrangements to see at least the 325e this weekend if not all 3 of them. The e has the most appeal for me - it's don't look back cheap, has an LSD, and being a first year 325e should have the sport interior. I'd do a new timing belt asap, adjust the valves, throw new plugs and fluids in it, track down the idle problem (vac leak or IAC) and go. I don't care if the exterior (dark gray) is rough, it looks like a 6/10 in the pics, if it's horrible it will get a roller paint job.

The ix would be good if I were looking for a rallycrosser, an ice racer, or a year-round car, but I'm not. I worry about the additional weight of the awd system and the potentially very expensive front diff, and for my needs the extra weight isn't going to help.

The i would be great if I wanted to dump my 750 and have a nice looking cheap daily, but I'm not. It's got the base seats, not the sports.

Assuming I want to go for the 325e, should I be afraid of an auto-to-manual swapped E30? What should I look for to make sure it was done correctly? Anything else expensive to look out for? Any compelling reason to spend the extra and go for the xi or the i (besides the i motor)? The last cheap 325e I looked at was a mess but even with horrid brakes that needed 3 pumps to do anything, a scary noise from one rear corner on decel and a shifter so sloppy I got 3rd 3 times before I figured out how far over 1st really was the goodness of the E30 came shining through, and I've been looking for a better but still cheap example since.

The only differences I can think of between the auto and the manual (that would be overlooked, aka I'm not going to tell you to make sure they put the driveshaft back in) are the backup lights, which will probably be unplugged, and the cruise control clutch switch. The cars had a little switch that shut off the cruise when the clutch was put in. If there is any wierdness with the cruise, find the connector for the clutch switch (should be where the clutch pedal used to be). Taped into the harness somewhere should be a nifty plastic jumper connector, which was installed on all auto and manual cars. Plug it into the clutch switch connector, and enjoy cruise.

If you really like having to work on a new toy before getting to play with it, I'd say #1. Otherwise, if I could swing it, moneywise, #3. But I'm no BWM expert.

Tracking an e will be...interesting, to say the least. Gotta love that redline!

Appleseed wrote: If you really like having to work on a new toy before getting to play with it, I'd say #1. Otherwise, if I could swing it, moneywise, #3. But I'm no BWM expert.

That's somewhat the rub. I could afford to just go lease a new 335i and be stupid fast (the loaner 335i x-drive auto I have while the 7 is in the shop yet again is mighty quick) with a factory warranty - I just don't want to. I want a toy I can not worry about balling up, that's fun to drive near the limits and will have limits low enough that I won't scare myself stupid. I also do enjoy working on my toys. I miss my old Miata, which didn't ever really need work but I was constantly making minute adjustments to the timing, changing fluids before they really needed it, and just puttering around with it. I think #1 might satisfy the tinkerer in me well, but if it's going to do an impression of a needy Italian car that's a whole other ball of wax. I guess I just have to go see and drive them before I make up my mind.

Tommy, any idea how hard it is to get the backup lights working on the manual swap if not already done by the current owner, who did the swap himself? I'd need that to pass state inspection at least. Is it as simple as the clutch switch you described - attach the correct part at the correct spot?

There's also a bunch of cheap RX7s around at the moment. I guess I have some test driving to do.

I'd lean more towards #3 depending on condition and if you can get the price down. As mentioned, #1 would not make the best autox/HPDE car with the low-reving e engine.

I wouldn't even look at #2 for the reasons you already mentioned... although if it's in "parts car" condition, you could put the i engine in car #1 and sell off the iX parts. About the only advantage of the iX is its wheel have a different off-set than RWD cars (+36 vs. +24), so aftermarket wheels are actually a little easier to find (I'm going through this exercise for my '88 325is).

IMHO, I wouldn't bother with any of them and just wait until you can find a decent 325is...

Ian F wrote: IMHO, I wouldn't bother with any of them and just wait until you can find a decent 325is...

That'd be my ideal plan, but finding a decent 325is for cheap here in the rusty northeast is impossible, and although I'm generally willing to travel for cars I really don't want to for what's going to be as cheap a project as possible. I've been putting off doing this for 5 years, and I don't want to let another season go completely by waiting for a car that may never exist to appear.

I will check out #3 - if there's service records and it doesn't need a ton of work it may be the winner, even though it lacks the sport seats, especially if #1 needs a complete suspension overhaul too. I'll report back after I've done some driving.

pigeon wrote: That'd be my ideal plan, but finding a decent 325is for cheap here in the rusty northeast is impossible

Oh I know... hence why I jumped on Sonic's car when he posted it, although I'll admit it cost a little more than options #1 & #3 combined...

pigeon wrote:

Ian F wrote: IMHO, I wouldn't bother with any of them and just wait until you can find a decent 325is...

That'd be my ideal plan, but finding a decent 325is for cheap here in the rusty northeast is impossible, and although I'm generally willing to travel for cars I really don't want to for what's going to be as cheap a project as possible. I've been putting off doing this for 5 years, and I don't want to let another season go completely by waiting for a car that may never exist to appear. I will check out #3 - if there's service records and it doesn't need a ton of work it may be the winner, even though it lacks the sport seats, especially if #1 needs a complete suspension overhaul too. I'll report back after I've done some driving.

The non-sport seats are a lot easier to "fix" than the "e" motor. The I will also hold it's value very well, and be easier to sell when the time comes. The buy-in is higher for the i, but I'm willing to bet you get it back.

I do love the e as a commuter, but that motor may drive you crazy on the track.

You can put an i cam in an e head you just have to have the oil holes drilled. Then you have a 2.7 I.

I for got to tell you that you can get a Mark D chip and use the stock ecu and not have to swap over the engine sensors and ecu.

3 or #2

IMHO an e car seems to do fine for autocross.... as long as you get an LSD for it. the low end grunt seems to get it going pretty well out of the turns. you may find you need to shift where an i car didnt because of the shorter rpm range. but that doesnt happen very often.

HPDE is a different animal. you will be severely underpowered with an e car and you will see i cars going by you on the straights all day long.

If you get #3 and want/need iS sport seats, I have a friend with a pair he is looking to unload (don't know $ yet). Typcial condition (passenger - perfect; driver - notsomuch).

The i is the only decent option there IMO.

The low redline on the E is ridiculous. Can you say fun vacuum?

The ix awd system is expensive to repair and parts are hard to come by.

FWIW, For that money, you can probably find a decent e36

yep, Ive seen lots of decent E36 coupes for $3k or less, but I want an E30.

Here's #3: c-list ad Thoughts?

pigeon wrote: There's also a bunch of cheap RX7s around at the moment. I guess I have some test driving to do.

There's your answer!

I looked at the ad. Nice looking car. If they have the records to support their maintenance claims, it seems like a fair price.

Go with #3. You could easily spend more on #s1 or 2 just to bring them up to the level of #3.

ive got a tan leather is sport seat from our challenge e30 thats in good/fair condition in MA. turns out its because it had 2 passenger seats in it when we bought it... a little wierd adjusting it but fits without issue.

3 looks pretty nice in the ad. i'd still allocate funds for new front crontrol arms/bushings and rear subframe bushings on anything you plan to HPDE unless receipts show them to be pretty recent.

You can get another 20hp or so out of the e with a chip and premium fuel. That said, it still won't be as much as an i, straight out of the box.

If you could afford a new 335i, then splurge for the 325i over the other options for your intended use. You won't regret it. You might regret it if you went with the e motor when you had the chance for the i.

I may just check out the local RX7s. I think my big 7 is getting jealous that I'm looking at other Bimmers. I went to pick it up at the dealer tonight after a 3 day stay for the 3rd attempt at fixing the idrive so that it doesn't spin on it own (I think an exorcism is next) and the drivers door handle pulls freely and does nothing. :( I already had that handle replaced once and the rear door handle replaced x2. So back into a loaner I go.