During our internal top end inspection on the 351 engine in the challenger we found the dizzy gear to be about to completely fail.
I am considering the Pro Billet 8003 dizzy which I can buy for $66 shipped.
Anybody got any reports on this dizzy?
During our internal top end inspection on the 351 engine in the challenger we found the dizzy gear to be about to completely fail.
I am considering the Pro Billet 8003 dizzy which I can buy for $66 shipped.
Anybody got any reports on this dizzy?
Is it a roller cam in the 351? If it is you must use a steel dizzy gear or you will soon be looking at failure again. Cast iron and bronze are not compatible with the steel roller cam.
Jeff
Ranger50 wrote: In reply to JKleiner: Actually, bronze, steel, and plastic are compatible with a steel cam.
I was not clear and indeed you are correct. All three are technically compatible. Bronze will wear relatively quickly but will not destroy the cam. Steel will last hundreds of thousands of miles. Poly/plastic will not hurt the cam but their longevity can be questioned. Cast will self destruct and take the cam with it.
Jeff
Lots of bad news about the current crop of cheap Ford distributors, especially the ones going on eBay for under fifty bucks.
If it's manufactured by CDF/ProComp steer clear!
Luck,
T
Just search "Pro-Comp" on any search engine. They end up being the cheapest E36 M3tiest made crap from China with, IIRC, Australia written all over it.
Check the specific Ford forums, takes a while since you have to read through loads of posts, some won't let you use the search feature unless you join, but it's free and a nice source of info.
They're poorly made and fail all at once for various reasons. Very popular when they first arrived on the scene, now mostly avoided because of the workmanship. Typical off-shore junk.
The forums will fill you in entirely.
A current alternative with the SBF guys seems to be refurbishing the stock distributor body and converting to a Pertronix module and coil. Very easily done and a proven upgrade.
Is your 351 a Windsor? If it is and you end up buying a replacement distributor, I'd be interested in getting your old/original from you. Seriously, lemme know would you?
Luck,
T
TeamEvil wrote: Check the specific Ford forums, takes a while since you have to read through loads of posts, some won't let you use the search feature unless you join, but it's free and a nice source of info. They're poorly made and fail all at once for various reasons. Very popular when they first arrived on the scene, now mostly avoided because of the workmanship. Typical off-shore junk. The forums will fill you in entirely. A current alternative with the SBF guys seems to be refurbishing the stock distributor body and converting to a Pertronix module and coil. Very easily done and a proven upgrade. Is your 351 a Windsor? If it is and you end up buying a replacement distributor, I'd be interested in getting your old/original from you. Seriously, lemme know would you? Luck, T
why would people put a Pertronix module in a housing where the factory Duraspark stuff just drops right in?
novaderrik wrote: why would people put a Pertronix module in a housing where the factory Duraspark stuff just drops right in?
If someone cares about the appearance the older points distributors use a much smaller distributor cap than the later cars.
I run a 70' mustang 351 distributor with a points conversion kit in my 68' Fairlane but I don't have a roller block/cam either. A refurb is about $45 on Rockauto.
Thanks guys, the word is generally that the Ford dizzy is up to the job, $41 after core charge, not a bad budget hit for the challenge.
Will do a gear swap after the challenge, pesky budget.
Nitroracer wrote:novaderrik wrote: why would people put a Pertronix module in a housing where the factory Duraspark stuff just drops right in?If someone cares about the appearance the older points distributors use a much smaller distributor cap than the later cars. I run a 70' mustang 351 distributor with a points conversion kit in my 68' Fairlane but I don't have a roller block/cam either. A refurb is about $45 on Rockauto.
you can run the small points cap and rotor on the later model distributors, you just pop that lower cap adapter off and put the small cap in it's place. hide the ignition box behind the fender and you've got modern(er) electronic ignition that you can get replacement parts for in any small town on a saturday afternoon.
Derrik,
You really seem to know your stuff, was wondering how the power is supplied to the stock later model (1984) Ford distributor modules that attach to the side of the distributor?
I'd like to keep the stock ignition on an engine transplant and was wondering if there was a computer involved, or if the ignition could be retained with a wiring change and a 12 volt key-on line to the module?
If you know what's required, of maybe have a link to a forum where I could find the info/procedure, would you lemme know?
Thanks !
T
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