82 Merc diesel

What kind of mileage would something like this get? What do you think of this particular car? What do I need to know about them?

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/3676411811.html

Looks pretty clean, is that rust I see behind the left rear wheel? IF that's the proper mileage, it's great but many of the 80's benzes suffered from broken odometers.
Expect north of 30 mpg on the highway, not a heck of a lot less in town. While that may not seem great, it's a heavy car, and something comparable form the 80's: 1) is long since dead 2) got half the fuel economy

I would try to find a 300D Turbo over 240D. The 240D is slower then molasses and the 300D is slightly faster.

I wouldnt get a 240d auto unless you are ok with how slow it is. The 4 speed ones are fine unless you go up hills a lot though.

It would just be a DD to commute to work. I drive my Sierra now and never rev it above 2200rpm, so power isn't really a requirement.

I got 26 MPG in my 72 220D 4 speed.

bravenrace wrote: It would just be a DD to commute to work. I drive my Sierra now and never rev it above 2200rpm, so power isn't really a requirement.

0-60 is over 20 seconds kinda slow...

It looks like someone took care of that one.

I got mid-30s on the highway with mine (a '79 with the 4 speed manual), but I tended to stay below 60 MPH. It was indeed slow, but more of a relaxed, easygoing slow than an unsafe slow. I've never driven an automatic 240D, though; maybe they're a lot worse.

Does it have a power sunroof? They tend to get stuck, and can be a pain to get unstuck. If there is a sunroof and it works, plan on cleaning & greasing the sunroof rails to prevent it from getting stuck in the future. Cleaning the sunroof drains is good preventative maintenance, too, and will prevent water from ending up inside the car/on your head when it rains.

Rubber seals in the doors, windshield & rear window are often old and dried out/cracked. When cracked, they can leak water into the cabin and trunk, which can cause rust problems later. I think the seals are still generally available, but can be expensive.

Rust is an issue. Common points include the floors, the trunk, the bottom of the doors, jack points, the areas where the hood hinges mount, and battery box. In my car, there was a sort of plastic/rubber coating between the floor of the cabin and the actual metal floor; combined with the coating on the bottom of the car, that made it hard to see milder rust. The coating tends to turn brown/black if there's rust underneath, and pushing on the floor will show you any serious weak points.

The engines need frequent oil changes, regular fuel filter changes, and valve adjustments. There are a few fuel lines that might need replacing on a neglected car, but they're generally cheap and available. Many engines will use some (or a lot) of oil between changes, so it's important that the owner has been good about checking & refilling the oil regularly. Motor mounts are another common wear point, as are oil cooler lines.

The driveshaft flex discs are easy to ignore if you're not aware of them, and need replacement every so often. Probably worth inspecting on any car you're looking at, and then every so often afterwards if you buy a W123. Ditto with the rear axles; the boots tend to tear. The steering can get sloppy with age. There's an adjustment mechanism on the steering box that can correct some slop, but it isn't always enough. Replacement steering boxes are available, but aren't cheap.

I liked my 240D. It was very reliable for an old car, and a comfortable, competent commuter.