88 Z51 C4 update

Is there a previous thread on this car? If not please provide lots and lots of details and photo's

I don't think I ever created one to be honest....

Bought this 88 Z51 4+3 manual 'vette from NW Arkansas in August of 2010. Paid $3400 for it with 143k miles. Ran/drove but the OD unit was hit or miss. Towed it home with my 06 GMC CC 4.8/3.23 rear end pick'em'up on my open trailer 450 miles home:

Got home LATE Sunday night and the next morning was foggy:

Here's what I started with:

It needed a battery, the oil looked like mud, and the air filter had so many leaves and junk in it I don't know how it ran. Put 2 new 275/40 Kumho SPT's to match the 2 almost new 255/45/17's on the front. Changed the oil, put the tires on it and took it to a couple auto-x's:

As you'll notice, my head sticks out the top with a helmet, so I removed the seats and slapped in a pair of eBay specials that really worked out nice.

So I started collecting parts because it was old, and I knew it needed work. I mean, I paid a little over $3k for a running and driving Z51 equipped manual vette. So I found a complete Energy suspensions bushing kit, braided brake lines for $100 shipped, all new. Then I ordered a set of Hawk HPS pads from my wholesale account at the Tire Rack and a set of rotors from my Napa account. In November of 2010 I parked the car for the winter and started on it in FEb. Rebuilt the rear suspension, installed new Bilstein shocks, all new pads, rotors, lines and a MUCH needed fluid flush as well as a mastercylinder. With the brakes taken care of and the rear suspension actually pointed in the right direction (and more importantly STAYING in the right direction) I started to enjoy it for the 2011 season. I changed the oil 3 more times in the next 1500 miles but was starting to realize that if it was warm, it wouldn't start well. Changed the FPR, and it was better, but still hard starting. changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor and found 6 injectors were leaking, which explained the hard starting! So I started collecting more parts for the coming winter. Oil was blowing out the dipstick under load, as well o=as out of the valve covers, intake, etc so I knew that an engine rebuild was on the docket for this past winter.

So, I sourced a complete CompCams kit that included a new roller cam, lifters, timing set, pushrods, seals springs etc for $300 shipped.

Then ran across this miniram with rails for $700 shipped:

That should bring us up to date....

Oh... I almost forgot. I tore apart the front end to replace the bushings in the control arms onlt to fubar one of them, so Ibought a set of NOS control arms with new bushings, ball joints for $300.

So the suspension is all new, the rack got rebuilt yesterday, p/s pump is on it's way. The clutch master, slave and line are all new as well as a new clutch and flywheel. Mechanically, it's almost new.

Thanks for the update. Wheels can really make or break a car as far as appearance goes! How would you rate the 'Vette overall for ease of access and working on stuff? I really like the price point the C4's are at currently.

Now ya got me thinkin' of the next project car

... and I sure as hell don't need another project car

doc_speeder wrote: Thanks for the update. Wheels can really make or break a car as far as appearance goes! How would you rate the 'Vette overall for ease of access and working on stuff? I really like the price point the C4's are at currently.

Compared to the Korean cars I own, on a scale of 1-10, 1 being easy to work on, 10 being a mother, I'd rate it as an 11. But compared to other comparable cars, it's a 3-4. I've been spoiled by the Korean crap boxes because they are so easy to work on.

The BIGGEST complaint I have is this is the era that GM started switching to metric. so literally I never know what size wrench/socket I will need. It's a pain in the backside.

Well, last night I got the rack reinstalled. Pro-tip: If someone offers to pay you to R&R a rack in a C4, Don't do it. Ever. I have no idea how they get that thing out with the engine in there.

Bobzilla wrote: The BIGGEST complaint I have is this is the era that GM started switching to metric. so literally I never know what size wrench/socket I will need. It's a pain in the backside.

Isn't that fun? My 1990 E150 was the same way... body stuff was mostly SAE and external engine stuff Metric. It made your head spin.

So... then how did you R&R the rack? edit: Right... forgot the engine is currently out...

Yep... no engine in there made it "easier" ... and by that I mean it still sucks hardcore, but it's possible to get it done. lol

Does a C4 have a sub-frame?

I know on my FWD cars (MINI and VW Mk IV) the rack out looks impossible to get to until you drop the sub-frame it's bolted to - then it's easy. Granted, on both of those cars, the engine is hung from the uni-body whereas on most RWD cars I've seen (our Volvo 1800's & my E30) the engine sits on the front subframe and has to be supported from above first before the latter can be dropped.

not that is easily removable.

Man I love those 80's bright red interiors. Just so cool!

How'd the rear suspension rebuild go Bob? Any pictures? Every C4 I've driven in the last few years felt "off" back there, and I imagine it's due to needing rebuilding from worn bushings. How hard of a job is it?

iT'S Not that hard actually. Just a lot of pieces.... a LOT of pieces.I don't have any pics from the rear rebuild... like an idiot. I know that before the rear wheels would gain positive camber when pushed as well as a ton of axle hop. You couldwatch the wheel move around in the wheel well anytime someone got on it. It was really really sad.

I did learn that you can gain almost 4* of rear camber though.

Next time a C4 shows up at the autocross I should mount my GoPro on the rear and watch the wheel. Maybe try for an under-car suspension shot, too. Obviously this would only work if it's bushings were bad...

Just picked these up at Pro-Kote at lunch:

They are soooo shiny!

I am enjoying this very much!!

i DID keep a picture of my broken pistons:

Ugh that motor was sooooooooo gross.

yeah, here's the gross picture:

No, that motor isn't gross. The Tunachuker's 460 was gross. Yours is just mildly dirty.

that black you see isn't paint. It's 19 years of leaking gaskets!

In reply to Bobzilla:

I thought GM pre-applied the grease as the factory paint new?

And you've seen Tuna's YouTube video of the oil change, right? Right??!?!!? (Cannot be unseen!!!)

Javelin wrote: In reply to Bobzilla: I thought GM pre-applied the grease as the factory paint new? And you've seen Tuna's YouTube video of the oil change, right? Right??!?!!? (Cannot be unseen!!!)

Ok that was pretty nasty. But this was probably the worst motor i've seen in real life.

Followed closely by what i pulled out of the Escort, and what is currently sitting in the MX6.

I'm somewhat surprised the Vette even ran.

I still have a scar from that thing btw, Bob. I guess i ripped off more skin than i thought.

The internals are definitely cringe-inducing. I'm not surprised it ran, but am surprised it ran so well!

Javelin wrote: In reply to Bobzilla: I thought GM pre-applied the grease as the factory paint new? And you've seen Tuna's YouTube video of the oil change, right? Right??!?!!? (Cannot be unseen!!!)

My first 3 oil changes I did every 200-500 miles and every one came out black and chunky.