Am I hosed? Or fix it and send it?

Asking for some opinions and direction from the hive on an issue with my mustang.

I have a slightly outdated build thread ( https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/project-boomerang/259787/page1/ )

but the gist is it's 91 Mustang with a H/C/I 302 I bought poorly running and got back on the road. Motor has 97k. Top end was re done ~ 2k miles ago as was the oil pump. I've put 400 miles on it (that's how many miles are on the oil as well)

About a week ago, after some spirited driving I noticed my foxbody lost oil pressure. I noticed the needle dropped and heard clacking (definitely not knocking) and limped it to a safe spot for a tow (maybe 1-1.5 miles)

I suspected (and later confirmed) the oil pump and driveshaft failed. 
 

I've drained the oil and cut the filter (best I could) 

there were a few non magnetic pieces in the drained oil but it was not gritty and mostly clean. Filter was mostly clean as seen here: 

I pulled a valve cover and no obvious issues. All the roller tips seem to turn ok

I pulled the pan and confirmed the pump drive shaft broke 

I suspect the pump locked up due to whatever caused this mark

No visible damage on the pump strainer 

Which leads to the question. While the front sump was clean, there was some glitter in the rear sump

The video capture looks worse than what was wiped out, but there were a few non magnetic flakes 

I have a new pump and drive shaft ready to go. 

Wanted to turn to the hive and solicit advice; I'd love to toss it and run, but I do not want to risk destroying ~ $2500 in heads and cam if it's really toasted. 

WWGRMD? 
 
Toss it together and send it? 
Pull it and rebuild? 
Something else?

More data needed?

After 1-1.5 miles of driving with no oil pressure there has to be some bottom-end bearing damage. The good news is that with no oil flow the glitter would mostly fall into the pan and maybe get into the bottom-end passages a little. The heads might be OK but the engine will need disassembly, a block cleaning and a bottom-end rebuild (Edit: Other than rings, rings should be fine).

The filter would be clean because the pump wasn't pumping any oil through it.

I'd throw a pump and driveshaft in and see what the oil pressure is like.

You've got the pan off.  Pull a few bearing caps and see what the bearings look like.  You could roll some new ones in if they're questionable.

I'm more concerned about where whatever locked the pump up ended up than I am the bearings though.

Sounds like you've already got the oil pan off.  Maybe pull a couple of bearing caps off and inspect the bearings?

Bearings, at the very least.  Mains and rods.  It can be a bit tricky to roll the top mains out, but you will figure it out.

In reply to APEowner :

While the pan is dropped, it's not off. Not sure I can get a torque wrench in

The young me would have fixed the pump and sent it.

The current me says you need to pull a bearing cap and see what the bearings look like.

Streetwiseguy said:

Bearings, at the very least.  Mains and rods.  It can be a bit tricky to roll the top mains out, but you will figure it out.

I've used one of the old lower bearings to help roll the upper bearing out. 

Bend the old bearing to about 90 degrees in the middle so the end without the tab can be placed against the crank and the other part is away from the crank to use as a "handle". 

If the crank is clean or can be hand polished with some emory cloth I'd stuff in some new bearings and send it. 

Either way, I'd definitely get the pan the rest of the way off and hose down the inside of the block with a few cans of brake clean. (Which reminds me, I need to get brake cleaner.)

Buy a new oil pickup.  The one you have let whatever it was into the oil pump.  And pack the new pump with vasoline so it is easier to prime.

No Time said:

Streetwiseguy said:

Bearings, at the very least.  Mains and rods.  It can be a bit tricky to roll the top mains out, but you will figure it out.

I've used one of the old lower bearings to help roll the upper bearing out. 

Bend the old bearing to about 90 degrees in the middle so the end without the tab can be placed against the crank and the other part is away from the crank to use as a "handle". 

The service manuals used to show how you could bend a cotter pin to look like an angled T, then put it in the oil hole to roll a bearing out.

Knowing how much of a pain it is to pull the pan in this chassis, I'd run it first, since if it's bad you're pulling the engine, and if you just want to roll new bearings in you're still pulling the engine...

Pete. (l33t FS) said:

No Time said:

Streetwiseguy said:

Bearings, at the very least.  Mains and rods.  It can be a bit tricky to roll the top mains out, but you will figure it out.

I've used one of the old lower bearings to help roll the upper bearing out. 

Bend the old bearing to about 90 degrees in the middle so the end without the tab can be placed against the crank and the other part is away from the crank to use as a "handle". 

The service manuals used to show how you could bend a cotter pin to look like an angled T, then put it in the oil hole to roll a bearing out.

 

Knowing how much of a pain it is to pull the pan in this chassis, I'd run it first, since if it's bad you're pulling the engine, and if you just want to roll new bearings in you're still pulling the engine...

That seems the path of least resistance and assuming it starts and pressure looks bad, I'm only out the oil really

Pull the engine and check the bearings, probably not worth the time otherwise.  Something similar happened to my friend, bought a grand wagoneer and spit the oil filter gasket out in a construction zone with no shoulder.  By the time there was a place to get it out of the lane it was bad enough the starter wouldn't even turn the engine anymore after changing the oil and trying to start it again to see what would happen.