I would shoot for about -2° camber if you can get it.
Tire temps will tell what it needs to be, but it's a MacStrut with an off-the-shelf spring, so it likely won't be enough anyway.
I would shoot for about -2° camber if you can get it.
Tire temps will tell what it needs to be, but it's a MacStrut with an off-the-shelf spring, so it likely won't be enough anyway.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
Good point about tire temps. I'll bring my IR thermometer next time and see what's happening.
Got the new dampers in today, along with new calipers, rotors, and pads. My buddy tried to get the larger ones mentioned earlier, but the parts that showed up are the same size as the originals. Nonetheless, there were definitely issues with the old brakes, so this should still be an improvement. No crash bolts yet (blame FedEx), but we'll get them in eventually.
Likely they were accent rotors and not the sx Rio version. Sx only got the 280mm(11") front brakes. Accents and ex/lx Rio got the 256mm (10")
In reply to bobzilla :
He ordered parts that claimed to be for the SX, but this is what showed up. Probably Rock Auto's fault for not cataloging them correctly (it wouldn't be the first time...).
In reply to 02Pilot :
Noooo! Rockauto never makes mistakes!
Rob's Top Tips for "How to not be competitive, but have fun in Auto-X":
Falken 660s, because they're grippier than all-seasons and wear like iron. So you aren't killing them off at a rapid pace. 195/50 or 205/50 are both available.
Play with tire pressures to figure out what it takes to rotate the back end.
Turn in early - way early - earlier than you think is possible. You'll probably still miss the inside cone by a mile.
Bleed the brakes thoroughly and get a hard pedal. Nothing induces panic more than a soft brake pedal that feels like it does nothing.
Speaking of brakes, good pads (Porterfield, Hawk, EBC) on Centric rotors.
We finally had a chance to fab up a stiffener for the rear axle. We discussed a number of options, and settled on a piece of bar stock to box in the axle, held in place by U-bolts. We figured this offered the most adjustability and ease of fabrication, while also being totally reversible. 3"x 3/16" steel and four 3" exhaust clamps were procured, the saddles for the clamps were trimmed back, and everything was mocked up. Once we got it how we wanted it, we pulled it apart and I welded the saddles to the bar.
A quick blast of paint and it was ready to install.
Test drive confirms considerable additional rear roll stiffness. The next autox session is the end of the month, so we'll see how it behaves under duress.
I am KEENLY interested in your results.
In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :
I will keep you posted.
In reply to 02Pilot :
Innovative. I like it. Looking forward to updates.
The Accent ran its first event since the rear axle mod today. I rode shotgun through several sessions - not as good as driving, but good enough to develop some impressions. The car is much more willing to rotate now. It's not tail-happy, but there's definitely movement that was not there before. Overall, it feels closer to properly balanced. It still needs some chassis stiffening, and probably another degree of negative camber up front, but it's closer to right than it was. The rear axle mod is definitely effective.
It's really quite fascinating to see a humble, 190k mile 2009 Hyundai with mismatched bodywork run relatively well against built Miatas, an LS-swapped E36, an Integra Type R, as well as a bunch of other performance cars (including a lovely Ferrari California). I have to imagine there were a few people who were questioning their life choices at the end of the day.
In reply to 02Pilot :
And now you understand why I've chosen the hard way for so long. It's so rewarding to make people do a double take and go "wait, I got beat by a what?"
bobzilla said:In reply to 02Pilot :
And now you understand why I've chosen the hard way for so long. It's so rewarding to make people do a double take and go "wait, I got beat by a what?"
Absolutely!
Yeah, it's definitely more satisfying to be relatively quick in cheap, simple machinery. All the more because we've just basically just used low-dollar tweaks - Window Weld to fill bushings, the rear axle mod, etc. - not thrown money at it. I don't want to overstate things; I don't know what sort of times he did yesterday, but the car is not actually fast in any objective sense, but it does pretty well for what it is.
For the first time, there were two cars in the Hyundai contingent:
If you are consistently carrying a rear tire in corners now, thanks to the beam plate, lowering the rear suspension will do wonders. It reduces body roll without stressing the front tires, and actually allows the inside front to grip more accelerating out of a corner.
Looks stupid, works brilliantly
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
We've already got lowering springs in it that dropped it about 2". Short of cutting a coil off each rear spring, I don't know that there's much more to be done. That said, we're not there yet. The chassis isn't stiff enough that it's lifting a rear wheel in corners, so we're going to add some braces across the towers front and rear and see what happens.
In reply to 02Pilot :
I drove the forte to come coach the TT but we have 2 N's, an elantra gt and the forte here today. We are seeing more and more korean cars. Tomorrow I'm bringing Rio and making a lap not leading ducklings
You'll need to log in to post.
