So the Rio .... yeah. 130k miles. I did a drain and fill on the transmission at ~100k. Have the filter kit to do it again but it's got some issues. Torque converter shudders, shift flares and staying locked when it shouldn't. So... should I try another D&F which nets me about 3.5 qts of new fluid in a 9.5qt system, or just ride it out until July and buy her something nicer with no miles.
The first mechanical job I did to a car as a teenager was to completely rebuild the C6 auto in my '71 Torino GT. Took it all apart on the bench, replaced all the seals, bands, and clutches, and reassembled it. THen modded the valve body. It worked, and performed better. I've done a number of them in performance cars since then. So automatics aren't magic boxes to me, just another way of transferring power to the rear. My daily has 170k on it's automatic and is still great. And my tow pig is much better served by it's automatic.
That Rio tranny wouldn't just happen to be the Kia version of the Ford/Mazda 4EAT, would it? If so, fresh fluid plus 2 bottles of Lube Gard Red seems to help that tranny quite a bit.
WildScotsRacing wrote: That Rio tranny wouldn't just happen to be the Kia version of the Ford/Mazda 4EAT, would it? If so, fresh fluid plus 2 bottles of Lube Gard Red seems to help that tranny quite a bit.
Nope. This is all Hyundai. The older Rio (2005 and older) would have had the Fozda drivetrains. This one is the same 4-spd auto in the 2000-up Hyundai Accent. Not 100% the same, there are tweaks, and differences etc.
The other issue is something I've heard of but never seen in real life. The trans pan is rusting from the outside in. It's getting pretty gnarly.
Bob, Have the latest reflash done and have the adaptive values reset and it will probably fix your issue.
Send me the last 8 of your VIN and I'll run it and see if there are any pending tsb/recalls.
Agreed. If it wasn't for the trans, wed be racing this weekend.
Freakung devil black magic.
I concur with this statement.
In reply to appliance_racer:
As far as I know the only pending recall is the passenger occupant thingy.... I'll get it when I get home.
If not, I would do 3x d&f with a short drive in between them making sure the transmission goes through all gears.
In reply to Slippery:
if it was just a drain plug, I wouldn't mind. Sadly, Hy/Kia took the GM approach with this trans that requires a pan drop. Pan drop = mess everywhere and I'm getting too old for that crap.
In reply to Bobzilla:
Yeah, thats a pita. I used to do that on my wofe's Acura and it helped a lot with the shudder. But then again, that had drain/fill plugs.
So stupid. My ZX2 had 205K miles. Trans fluid never changed IIRC. It would flare up in 1st gear the last 50K miles only when cold. No issues besides that. Then the motor died...
This is my biggest beef with auto transmissions, there is no rhyme or reason. Some live, some don't. Maintenance schedule seems to be a crap shoot.
In reply to appliance_racer:
86415009 Would be the last 8. knade1231 being the first 9
There use to be some goo called Shudder Fix. It worked great in Fords when they started acting weird.
A drain and fill can't hurt assuming the fluid isn't full of junk. I'd go with Valvoline Maxlife, that stuff goes well in pretty much everything. Or given it has only 30k on the current filter, you could just pull the cooler lines and do a full exchange.
In reply to Toyman01:
That's just a shot of friction modifier, the lubegard potions are all some variation of that.
I'm very hesitant to do a complete exchange. I didn't change it the first time until 100k, and by all appearances that was the first fresh fluid that it had ever seen. Considering how delayed the other maintenance was I wouldn't be surprised if that was the original.
When I changed the fluid on my parents Hyundai Santa Fe, the fluid coming out was black and the trans was slipping a bit. I filled it up with Valvoline Maxlife and a bottle of Lucas stop slip and it seemed to be a little better. I am not sure if that was the best solution but at least it's keeping the car on the road.
First thing to do is contact a medium. Then prepare the appropriate sacrifice and pray.
Chris_V wrote: The first mechanical job I did to a car as a teenager was to completely rebuild the C6 auto in my '71 Torino GT. Took it all apart on the bench, replaced all the seals, bands, and clutches, and reassembled it. THen modded the valve body. It worked, and performed better. I've done a number of them in performance cars since then. So automatics aren't magic boxes to me, just another way of transferring power to the rear. My daily has 170k on it's automatic and is still great. And my tow pig is much better served by it's automatic.
I've done the same to a GM 4L80e and still don't know how they work.
Voodoo contraptions, all of them!
I am soooooo close to talking her into a newer car (under $10k, auto, high em pee gee).
Two open recalls but none for the transmission. One recall for under body corrosion inspection, the other for the airbag light/ passenger seat sensor.
If you don't trade it in and can find a dealer that won't rip you off, I would have them reset the adaptive values for the engine AND transmission. Drive it for a couple days and the shift quality should be greatly improved.
Half hour labor is completely fair for what it takes to do the reset. Hopefully that puts you in the $50-$60 range.
If you do trade it skip the reset. Most dealers are going to give you a value that they think they can get at the auction regardless of how it drives.
I'm ok with getting rid of it. Rust is creeping in (it'll be 10 years old in a few months), its not that nice of a car to start with and since it's become our main vehicle on the weekends I'd like something a little nicer.
Not saying these aren't great little cars, because they are. But they're cheap for a reason.
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