I put my money where my mouth was...
I put my money where my mouth was...
Javelin said:
I put my money where my mouth was...
WOW that is clean! good luck man! Looks like you'll have plenty of fun!
spacecadet said:Javelin said:
I put my money where my mouth was...
WOW that is clean! good luck man! Looks like you'll have plenty of fun!
Great! I love a happy ending!
Now keep us updated.
Awesome, Congratulations. Any advice I can give, let me know.
Floating Doc said:spacecadet said:Javelin said:
I put my money where my mouth was...
WOW that is clean! good luck man! Looks like you'll have plenty of fun!
Great! I love a happy ending!
Now keep us updated.
I paid $210 less than the PCCB option package on the new 718 Boxster for the whole car.
2000 Boxster S, 3.2L/MT6
IMS done along with a new clutch and 30K mile used warrantied transaxle at a Porsche dealer with paperwork.
loosecannon said:Awesome, Congratulations. Any advice I can give, let me know.
How do I make it fast enough to beat ND2 Miata's in CS trim?
In reply to Javelin :
If your car doesn't have the M030 suspension on it, order the whole ROW M030 kit from Suncoast Porsche parts. Run the struts and rear sway bar from the kit but you need to run USA M030 springs if the class requires stock springs. The ROW springs drop the cars ride height a little but the sway bars and struts are same as USA M030 parts. Go to Tarrett and get their GT3 front sway bar and drop link kit. 18" wheels were an option on your car so find out what the widest ones that were available (I believe itt was 11" wide rear and 9.5" wide front) and run the widest front tire you can stuff under the car. Run 0 toe in the back and slight toe out in the front. Max out the front camber and whatever you get, add -1 to that number and get the back set to that. Ditch the exhaust from cats back and run just downpipes or pipes straight out the back (an X pipe cuts down on noise and may increase torque). Keep checking drivers side axle bolts, they come loose. That's all I can think of. The car will lose some of it's amazing manners on the street with this set up but it will rock an autocross course. Oh, make sure you turn off the AC, you will be a second slower with it on, no joke
I'm going to look at a speed yellow 986S next weekend (not this one). I may be driving it home as well. Let me know what you think of the car overall and how much you like it. A 996 and 986 might just be enough for me (hardtop and vert).
In reply to loosecannon :
Class requires US springs, so the ROW M030 kit is out.
I owned the car for all of an hour before I brought it to Performance Race Engineering to have Koni Sports installed and the autocross alignment done.
It already has the widest optional 2000 MY 18" wheels on it, 7.5" front 9" rear. I will be putting the widest RE71R's we can get onto the wheels, probably 235's and 285's for height considerations.
I will be looking into the GT3 front bar, I want to see how it baselines with the stock bars first.
Definitely looking into the exhaust ASAP.
AnthonyGS said:I'm going to look at a speed yellow 986S next weekend (not this one). I may be driving it home as well. Let me know what you think of the car overall and how much you like it. A 996 and 986 might just be enough for me (hardtop and vert).
I'll put it this way, with 2011 all-seasons on it and 138K miles on the struts it still out-corners my fully-CAM prepped Cobra on 275/305 200TW tires. It's by far the best handling car I've owned (and I've had an early 944, FB RX7, NA Miata, a Jag XJS, and an FC RX7).
You need wider front tires to compensate for the huge front sway bar. The bar keeps the rear tires planted (no LSD, remember) but introduces understeer and wider front tires cure that. However, I only competed at Nationals in CS with R-Comps and they pulled enough G's to lift the inside rear tire. For street tires, you may not need the GT3 bar but the M030 bars are bigger than the regular sway bars and the rear one increases more over the base suspension than the front one.
In reply to Javelin :
It is a mid engine sports car.....
In reply to Javelin :
We are going to Austin Saturday to drive the speed yellow 00 S. Showed it to daughter this morning since it means selling the Miata she loves and she started singing “na na na na na Batgirl...” so I guess that’s good. 90% chance we get it since we love our 996. And yes Porsche handling has a crispness and feel to it that other cars just don’t have.
I put my money where my mouth is, introducing the CS Boxster Project. I'm going to build this car to the full extent of SCCA rules and try and compete with the ND2 Miata at the 19 Tour and ProSolo in Packwood and a goal of going to Nats2020. Let's do this!
In reply to Javelin :
Looking forward to this. I may do something similar with my new S too.
AnthonyGS said:In reply to Javelin :
Looking forward to this. I may do something similar with my new S too.
Do eeeeeet!
Here's the official build thread.
I'm strongly considering a set of Koni sports and an adjustable rear sway bar (maybe Tarret) and seeing what I can do with this guy. I might also consider a Brey Krause roll bar extension. I'd also change the muffler for some weight savings and sweeter sounds. Since the car is midengined I feel like and set up for slight understeer from the factory I think an adjustable rear bar makes more sense.
Javelin said:I put my money where my mouth is, introducing the CS Boxster Project. I'm going to build this car to the full extent of SCCA rules and try and compete with the ND2 Miata at the 19 Tour and ProSolo in Packwood and a goal of going to Nats2020. Let's do this!
Awesome, I look forward to following along.
In reply to loosecannon :
What size front tires do you recommend? I can't decide between 235's to keep the sidewalls from deflecting too much and 255/265's to just maximize contact patch. The Cobra turned better with 235's than 275's on the nose and it has -1.5* of camber...
In reply to Javelin :
I put my answer in your other thread. Performance will likely be better with the 265's but steering feel is better with 235's but I base this all on running R-comps. We ran Bridgestone RE-11 in 265 rear, 235 front sizes at our local events and the car did very well and even won PAX but that was on asphalt. On high grip concrete, you may lift and spin the inside rear tire and will want to run a thicker front bar to help with that but then you'll need wider front tires to return balance.
I just watched your video. If you look back at page 1 of this thread, I warn you to keep checking CV bolts because they come loose. I'm glad you caught it before any damage occurred
In reply to loosecannon :
Thank you! We did check after the first 2 events and everything was tight. When we heard the noise your warning was the second thing that came to mind after loose lug bolts.
Now how the heck do we fix it? I found safety wire ready bolts for air cooled cars, but not ours.
In reply to Javelin :
I don't know, we used red loctite and it would still happen eventually. I think you just need to make it part of regular maintenance. Bring the tools you need and we also bought spare bolts in case one or two went missing
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