Bad AC compressor, how much do I replace?

Helped my sister pick up a 4cyl 99 Camry as a good safe and reliable beater (unlike the horrifyingly rusty 96 Cavalier she has now), it needs a few things (radiator, maybe some suspension work, miscellaneous mostly labor fiddling around with stuff) but it was cheap and solid enough (it's still wearing Texas plates) to be worth messing with and has a recent timing belt job. I was hoping the belt squealing when I hit the AC button was just a tension adjustment away from solving the issue, but belt adjustment shows the compressor is actually locked up solid, not sure on failure mode, it did sit for like a year before we picked it up. Manifold gauges show enough pressure to indicate it has at least some liquid 134a left in it. I've (often successfully!) done AC work before, sometimes with best practices, sometimes not, but never a compressor job with internal mechanical failure and I definitely don't want to get yelled at for screwing this one up, I still haven't broken the news that it turned out to be a worst case scenario.

So how much of the system should be replaced/flushed (and how)/etc.? This has the accumulator/filter/drier/whatever can on the high side between the condenser and TXV (which is annoyingly inside the HVAC box), so I would think junk wouldn't make it past that point if those work how I think they do.

Replace the condenser(fins look nice but who knows how much junk is in it)? Other stuff? New drier can is a given.

Spring for a new 12 month Denso compressor on rock auto for $176.79+shipping or get a 6 month low mile used unit from LKQ on ebay for $65 delivered? I was under the impression Denso compressors are pretty reliable. EDIT: And I can buy 3 used ones for the price of 1 reputable new one and this is a stupid easy compressor job, everything is up front and pointed forward.

Also, what adapter do I need to get from an old R12 era vacuum pump with the bigass flare fitting on it to a modern 3 hose manifold gauge set's third hose that screws directly to a 134a can tap? I'll go measure if needed but I figure somebody knows this off the top of their head.

Everything but the evaporator, because that's worth chancing it. Condenser, receiver-drier, and replace all of the o-rings you can reasonably access. Don't expose the R-D to air until you're ready to pull down a vaccuum and charge it immediately. I'd isolate the evap and flush and dry it. Then isolate the high and low side lines and flush/dry them. Don't flush junk into the TXV if you can help it.

You can rent a vacuum pump at some Autozones on Loan-a-tool.

I did all of this on my MR2 V6 swap and even with the R134-a conversion, I was getting 34 degree air out of the vents.

On my 4th gen 3SGTE RAV4 swap, I just hooked the hoses up, pulled a vacuum with my air powered venturi based HF gizmo, loaded it up with R134a and it works great. And that was after the rest of the system, including the drier, had been sitting with just duct tape over the hoses for almost a year.

There could be shrapnel in the system from the locked up compressor. I'd replace the compressor, receiver/dryer, and orifice tube. The rest of the system I would flush and blow out with compressed air, once piece at a time.

No expert here, but I've read that you can't really flush the modern condensers. Best to replace them.

In reply to spitfirebill:

I have read that as well, and most compressor manufacturers won't honor warranties unless you have a receipt showing you replaced all those parts. I've only replaced one locked up compressor. I did a thorough flush and either got lucky or got all the crap out. It was still working when I sold the car. Me, I'd chance it. I'm cheap that way.

I think I now better understand why they say newer condensers can't be cleaned.

So I think the plan shall be a new condenser and drier, clean the high pressure hose, line between the condenser and drier, and the low pressure hose (in case it puked any junk in that direction somehow), what's the preferred method for cleaning those out?

Since nobody has jumped down my throat at the mere suggestion of it, I think I might gamble a little and go the LKQ compressor route.

Call 1-800 radiator. Great prices. Like 1/3 price of box stores

The only thing I can offer is this: Buy a good compressor, not a shoddy rebuild from some parts store.

Back in my mis-spent youth, I repaired a locked up compressor on my Chevy truck. I cheaped out and bought a rebuild from Pep Boys, of all places. Receiver/drier and a few other parts, and the R-12 to charge it came to several hundred bucks. An A/C tech friend of mine did most of the work. A/C worked like a champ for nine months, then it didn't. A bit of investigating revealed evidence of a leak on the body of the compressor. In retrospect, I regret not having paid the (considerable) premium for an OEM compressor from GM.