Thinking of just putting locking pliars on there, but I'm wondering if there's a more elegant solution? I need to bleed the entire system from scratch, so I'm not too concerned with that part.
Thinking of just putting locking pliars on there, but I'm wondering if there's a more elegant solution? I need to bleed the entire system from scratch, so I'm not too concerned with that part.
Do you have a MIG welder and a nut available? If not, I'd go for the vise grips too.
I love my Irwin bolt extractor set. Works great on all sorts of stuff.
I've used these locking pliers to great effect on bleeders and fluid pipes. I never touch my flare nut wrenches anymore...
penetrating oil first because it may snap off next
Penetrating oil, heat, penetrating oil, and vise grips would be my go to if I was trying to get it free.
Related to the rounded bolt I’m intrigued by these:
That's what I figured, but I wanted to ask the hive mind first.
Step 1 - Call the parts store to find out how much a new caliper is.
Now you know the you can get $120 mad at it before going to the nuclear option - weld, vicegrips, etc.
Heat it until it smokes a little and then vice grips. I've never had this not work.
Parts stores sell replacement bleeders.
Try tapping the top of the bleeder with hammer first.
Visa card and Amazon.
Time machine and a six point socket.
Drill and a 1/8" pipe tap.
Streetwiseguy said:Visa card and Amazon.
My answer as well. Just went through this on my GMC truck.
Goin the other thermal direction.
I have used FREEZE OFF by CRC as part of the cycle for parts I needed to separate that could not be replaced easily or at all just due to rare part availabilty.
Lots of PB Blaster.
Wait a day
Get really hot with torch
Let it cool down hours.
Spray with Freeze off and let get back to room temp.
Then clean off with brake cleaner
Extractor tool/Locking Pliers/left hand drills
Again only because I a finding more and more parts for my 2004 Evo 8 were simply OEM discontinued over the pandemic and have no aftermarket options either (yet, hopefully!!!).
It seems like you are headed towards a broken off bleeder so I'll post this here from another thread back in early June.
I've had luck using torx screw bits as extractors with broken bleeders. I'll grind off the bleeder remains flush with the caliper then hammer in the appropriate sized torx bit and see if it works, if it doesn't they tend to just spin rather than break off. At that point I'll drill it out slightly larger and tap in the next size up bit and keep going from there. I'd say that works 80% of the time for me.
The other option if you want to re-use a caliper is to drill out the bleeder fully, tap it to 1/8 NPT and screw one of these in - https://www.wilwood.com/linekits/LineKitsProd?itemno=220-0627
When it's all said and done, don't be the guy over torquing those little things in there or you'll be extracting it again the next time.
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