BMW rod bearings: What is the real story here?

In reply to Tigm3 :

Go study how the vincebar works again. He is the one that basically engineered a solution that solves the chassis problem, not a workaround.

This is a question for nam3forum.com

In reply to Slippery :

Perhaps your right I have seen vincebar's solution it covers the frontward bolts only and transfers the rear flex to the strut towers, which also are susceptible to cracking. But im simply doing what I feel is right. 

Tigm3 said:

In reply to Slippery :

Perhaps your right I have seen vincebar's solution it covers the frontward bolts only and transfers the rear flex to the strut towers, which also are susceptible to cracking. But im simply doing what I feel is right. 

Roger. Thought you were asking for advice, sounds like you came to give some to us.

In reply to Olemiss540 :

Yea haha I have done lots of research on this found this system to be the best just asking for opinions from you guys as which one would be stronger. There is tons of videos on youtube on these bars I just like to go overkill.

I'm used to rod bearings being on a service schedule thanks to the 89-95 Taurus SHO's. 120k miles is the first entry for rod bearing replacement and every 60k after. Valves also need checked for tolerance every 60k with new shims as needed. It's the price you pay for higher rpm engines. 

In reply to WOW Really Paul? :

Its not a bad job to do these rod bearings. Keep in mind the engine revs at 8000 rpm stock all day and its the best m3 bmw has built to date.

In reply to Tigm3 :

Yea, it's been mused that the SHO V6 had the rev limit lowered due to the accessories on the engine. They lowered it to 7400, and even spending a lot of time that high will kill alternators. There's cammed guys turning 8k+ on them, and the rod bearings are easy on it. 

In reply to WOW Really Paul? :

Good old Yamaha engines my close friend had a 91 sho white one rust free imported from USA back When the dollar was at par with CAD they got balls.

Tigm3 said:

In reply to WOW Really Paul? :

Good old Yamaha engines my close friend had a 91 sho white one rust free imported from USA back When the dollar was at par with CAD they got balls.

Get rid of the stock y-pipe and catalysts and have the secondaries punched out 3mm and you'll gain quite a bit without having to figure out tuning.  
 

While my 91 wasn't good looking, it did have a 3.2 swap, most of the little tricks under the hood done, coilovers, sway bars, and svt cobra brakes. It was quite quick in a line but could actually handle. I still have a ton of parts off that one to put into another chassis at some point. 

In reply to WOW Really Paul? :

They weren't exactly concerned about making power with that horrible Y pipe, given that the clutch slipped off the showroom floor on the '89s.

Not that the chassis could handle much power, either!  I recall one '89 that I drove that was "interesting" because all four subframe mounts were broken.  

I took the plunge on a E60 m5. We will see how things go. 

dean1484 said:

I took the plunge on a E60 m5. We will see how things go. 

Manual or SMG?

In reply to dean1484 :

I love mine! The sound makes it all worth it. I've done about $4,000 in preventative maintenance over my 2.5 years and 20K miles of ownership. FCP Euro will become your best friend!