I want a roll back so bad! 
I want a roll back so bad!
In reply to yupididit :
lol, dude it's so weirdly fun to play with. I'm sure if it was your lively-hood it wouldn't hold the same charm, but as a dude who just likes machines it's ducking cool.
Covid vaccine scheduled for today and insurance setup for the truck - surprisingly cheap! What a good day to be above ground.
I had to go back to the first pictures and you new roll back, and count the lugnuts! I saw on another thread you said it was a Superduty, but I remember the words on here called a an F350 ( when I read it again, I did see Superduty, but had only focused on the "350" part)
Ford has used Super Duty, as opposed to Superduty a couple different ways over the years, but just for the sake of "proper" (maybe redneck) Ford lingo, the square body trucks built before '98 are referred to as OBS trucks. Old Body Style. In the too much info, 68 -72 are bump sides, and 73 - 79 are dent sides. 87 - 91 (?) are brick nose's and up till 97 are "aero"
The '99 and up F250's, and heavier, got named Super Duty's.
For some reason in 87, when they started making the F450 sized truck, they named it a Superduty, instead of using F450. From 87 to 97 (none built in 98) They were considerably heaver built than F350's - heaver frames, straight axle/leaf's in front, Dana 80's, and 10 lug 16"rims. Only came with either the diesel, or the big gas 460. I found out all this when I ended up with an unknown year frame, a 92 1/2 ton cab, and a 79 - 86 460 (carb.) bolted to what was probably the original ZF 5 speed (with PTO and hyd pump.)
To sum up, yous is not a 350, of a Super Duty, it a Genuine Ford Superduty!!!!
There, more info than ya ever wanted to know!
Heh.
He said "duty"
Also, those of us that are trying to live vicariously through you really need more pictures of this beast!
Also, since it is a 94, and you said 7.3 turbo, there were four different (really only 2) engines that it could be. Ford started their diesel pick up line in the early 80's with a 6.9 liter NA diesel developed in conjunction with (or by, I don't really know) International. It was what is know as an "Indirect Injected" diesel, know as IDI. By 1995, Ford International and Caterpillar had co-developed a unit injector that used high pressure oil to "push" the fuel into the combustion chamber. Now called Direct Injection - DI. Ford named there 7.3, DI, Turbocharged engine the Powerstroke. Some made it into 94's. So A 94 could be a 7.3 IDI NA, a 7.3 IDI turbocharged by Banks (at the dealer, or by aftermarket, a 7.3 IDI Turbocharged by FORD (looks different than the Banks kit), or the 7.3 DI Turbocharged Powerstroke.
wae said:He said "duty"
If it is, in fact the DI powerstroke, this:
Is an oil gallery crossover line that is the best $69 you will ever spend on that engine. Adds no power, nothing special, but equalizes the high pressure oil to both heads. Super well made, super easy to install, and you might feel the engine running smoother.
And Dennis at Strictly Diesel is a super nice guy.
https://www.strictlydiesel.com/ford-f250350obs7.3l-/ ... Beware the rabbit hole...
If its an IDI with a turbo, e-mail me for some info. on tuning the stock injection pump. I've got a guy...
Thank you for the info dump, I'll take all the help I can get - seriously.
Lol - I DID finally figure out the difference between the f-350 and f-SuperDuty trucks after A LOT of part's cataloging! I was deceived since I think it has a replacement fender that states: F-350 on the side. (And the previous owner kept calling it an f-350 before I knew any better)
And it is a genuine 1994.5 DI PSD truck ("F" Code)! I've been looking at dealing with the Dana-80 and have a ton of fun new rock-auto parts to make it shiny and happy again.
It has a lot of nifty features like the front and rear disc brakes being identical, drive by wire throttle, and a turbo the size of my head! I think it'll probably get a build thread to go with the silver miata.
I love this thing:
One more picture of the squad because I like it....
The hydraulics on my rig say "fill with automatic transmission oil". Doesn't seem to care which type.
In reply to accordionfolder :
I've been in that driveway.
Oooh, those are the BIG mammajamma brakes.
They freakin' suck to R&R the rotors unless you have a working surface close by, or are a bodybuilder. Dollars to donuts the truck has a transmission mounted parking brake.
Stampie said:In reply to accordionfolder :
I've been in that driveway.
And I'll take the details of that rendezvous to my grave! ;)
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I've ordered 4 of those big ass brakes and pads, should I be worried!?
Everything on this truck is surprisingly cheap. That is, it cost me more to refurbish the braking and cooling system on the Miata than it did to do this....
accordionfolder said:In reply to rustybugkiller :
Yeah - it does seem MOSTLY straight forward. I did manage to get the car loaded, drove it 2.5 hours through the mountains and get it unloaded without major incident. I would like to understand "best practices" because things like, how you position the line and how you stand while you do things - in my experience - are a "standard" because someone got hurt not doing it the right way. I've been watching a bunch of youtube videos so I'm getting more comfortable with what I should be aiming for - all common sense stuff, but good to remind yourself.
The guy I bought it from was kinda .... loose and fast type - nice dude, but I don't think he's probably by the books.
Which brings me to yet another question - he said he uses "only Automatic Trans fluid in the hyrdraulics" - is that a common practice? Has he fubar'd anything by doing so? Do I need to drain/swap refill them all?
ATF has the anti foam properties that a hydraulic pump needs, you could switch to an aw 36 maybe, colder conditions i would use ATF for consistency,Dexron 2 is my choice , but thats a Ferd SOOPER DOODY! I got hydraulic pumps from a guy in the Navy, thats what he put in the pump when he sealed it.
In reply to accordionfolder :
There's nothing deeply scary. The combination of giant, deep rotor and giant, deep hub makes for a very heavy assembly. The only real PITA is torquing the bolts that hold the rotor to the hub.
If you don't have an axle bearing socket, you'll need one. Fortunately, they are not hard to find the various flavors at auto parts stores.
In reply to TRoglodyte and Purple Frog:
ROGER! as is usual, when I searched to find out if it was ok or not half the links said my truck was already exploded, the other half said it would make it live forever ;)
I'll go with what you guys said!
Pete. (l33t FS) said:Oooh, those are the BIG mammajamma brakes.
They freakin' suck to R&R the rotors unless you have a working surface close by, or are a bodybuilder. Dollars to donuts the truck has a transmission mounted parking brake.
And yep, weird transmission mounted parking brake, it holds it very strongly it seems!
I did not find the rear brakes to be that bad... but they are half the size of the FL50, so I MAY be biased! I will say, that I know of two of the superduty's that had a rear caliper lock up, and drag the brake to the point of wondering what is wrong with the engine! Mine, I just pulled the calipers off, got the piston unstuck (That was actually tough!), and bought new seals. Everything cleaned up nicely, and went back together w/new pads, no sweat.
Lots of stuff for the DI PSD at strictly diesel. but get the X-over. might not notice its smother in that beast of a truck, but it is! From there on out, it starts getting expensive quick.
Oh, and the down pipe replacement is another must. Factory used a smashed shaped one (to fit engine in as assembly) but the "round" one flows much better. Some guys have to use a BFH for some gentle mechanical persuasion on the firewall to fit; I'v never put one on myself. had ones done by PO, and ones I didn't get around to. It does help. My favorite had the down pipe, 4'' open exhaust out behind tire. the turbo muffles the sound just enough to not be obnoxious. Any bigger is overkill.
accordionfolder said:In reply to yupididit :
lol, dude it's so weirdly fun to play with. I'm sure if it was your lively-hood it wouldn't hold the same charm, but as a dude who just likes machines it's ducking cool.
My first truck was an 89 Superduty with a 17 foot bed. It was a fun job and if it paid better I'd probably still be doing it. The brakes are simple and if you need to get the hub off without the socket you can. Use a screwdriver to push in the lock ring and a hammer and punch to spin the nut. I believe the drivers side is reverse thread.
It was a good truck but a little small once everyone started driving suvs. For the first year I drove it the glow plugs didn't work so it needed a shot of ether to start every morning. One day I was ambitious and replaced the plugs, harness, and relay. Three weeks later it was stolen, used to steal at least two cars, got a red light camera ticket, and I ended up cuffed and accused of stealing it when I argued with the detective.
This is the ultimate enabler, congrats!!
May be worth rolling by the local tow place that has a roll back and talk to a driver and see if you can pay him some $$ for tips. As long as it's for personal use I think you can get away with asking for some professional help.
In reply to Wally (Forum Supporter) :
You really should write a memoir.
If you're going to carry a lot of production based cars pick up some cluster hooks to tie them down and Google the factory tie down points. Most cars have several small reinforced oval slots to secure them. A mini j ot t hook will hold the car safely in place without risking suspension damage.
In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :
I keep trying to find the time and ambition to go through some vacation stories but it's harder than it soumds
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