I highly recommend this type of torch as it lets you get the torch in places much easier without dealing with the tank
I highly recommend this type of torch as it lets you get the torch in places much easier without dealing with the tank
About an hour with the MAPP gas torch and a set of vise grips managed to get it about 3 turns looser, before most of the remaining visible stud broke off. I'm going to let it cool, and fill the upper cavity with some Kroil, and stop for the night, I'm tired, overheated, sore, and frustrated.
Guessing I should order a set of left handed drill bits for this one, and hope one of them snags it and unthreads it.
When they are sticking out that much I have had much better luck welding a bolt to it. The nuts always snap off for me.
If you welded a nut to it, you've already gotten it plenty hot, so I'm sorry but not surprised the MAPP torch didn't do it. Time to grind it flat, center punch, and break out the drills.
PS - challenge car? Why not weld the new exhaust to the flange?
The Kroil seems to be soaking into the threads at this point. Sadly there's not enough of a stud left to grab with a vise grip. Slim chance I could weld another bolt to it. Going to mull things over for the rest of the day, and if I can't get it loose this evening, will order a set of left hand drill bits/extractors. Heck, might order them before then, I'm sure they'd come in handy some day.
Last night, I welded a bolt onto the remnants of the stud, but I don't hold much hope out on it staying there, as I'm not that great of a welder. This evening, I'll hit the exhaust manifold with the torch again, and see if it works. If not, the left handed drill bits/extractor set showed up today, so I can make an attempt with them.
I've never used LH drills, and you sure as heck don't want to break an extractor. You could try progressively larger drills, expecting to either chase the threads or cut new ones when you're done. Definitely center punch before drilling.
Here's where it stands right now. I'm still hopeful there's a chance to remove it without drilling it, since it was able to be turned some already.
If it has turned already you're REALLY close, just work it back and forth and keep dumping Kroil into it and it should come out.
Heat the manifold flange and the broken stud until cherry red or close to it.
Then remove the flame and hit the stud with a spray of freeze spray or just cold rust breaker like Kroil or PB Blaster.
Repeat the process several times until you can spin the stud out.
The expansion and contraction will help break up the rust and help the Kroil or PB blaster get into the threads.
You're getting there, keep going!
Stefan wrote: Heat the manifold flange and the broken stud until cherry red or close to it. Then remove the flame and hit the stud with a spray of freeze spray or just cold rust breaker like Kroil or PB Blaster. Repeat the process several times until you can spin the stud out. The expansion and contraction will help break up the rust and help the Kroil or PB blaster get into the threads. You're getting there, keep going!
Or use both freeze spray & penetrant at once:
This stuff is second only to Kroil in my experience- I think it's largely the same penetrant formulation as Kroil is.
It is out! Carnage pics later after I'm done in the garage for the day. Broke the bolt I'd welded on, then snapped the head of the next bolt I welded on, but at that point it left enough of the bolt to allow vise grips to be used.
Also burned several holes in a cheap welding blanket, I have a few concerns about a couple of spark plugs, and I am thinking it may behoove me to replace whatever sensor is on the passenger side of the block, as its connector looks a little scorched.
The stud, and most of the hardware I welded to it.
I've chased the threads with a tap, so just need to thread in the new studs.
Passenger side center of block with 1 wire oval connector is knock sensor
patgizz wrote: Passenger side center of block with 1 wire oval connector is knock sensor
It's actually on the cylinder head, between the rear and center ports, and looks like it still has the wiring connector attached, so I may have messed up the harness when removing it. Would that probably be the oil pressure sender? Maybe I just need a new harness-side connector (or may be able to salvage one from the S10 engine harness).
Kind of late, but my go to technique is vice grips on the stud, then use a second set of vice grips to crank the adjuster screw on the first set. You can get some absurd clamp force that way.
Glad you won your battle!
blizazer wrote: Kind of late, but my go to technique is vice grips on the stud, then use a second set of vice grips to crank the adjuster screw on the first set. You can get some absurd clamp force that way. Glad you won your battle!
I've never thought of that before. I may have to try that in the future.
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