broken off spark plug

Changing the plugs on my newly purchased hoopty Chevy truck and managed to break one off in the head. Plugs had been in there a long time, (very rusty) and this one didn't make it out. Hex section came loose of the threaded part and the ceramic broke off at that point. Center electrode pulled out but some ceramic is still in there. The plug turned once or twice before breaking, so the remaining threads aren't seized in place. Its a regular 350 w/ iron heads. Of course its the one in the back on the passenger side..... Searched for broken plug extractor but could only find kits for Ford Triton motors. (no help there) I know these tools exist, but can't find one. Thoughts?

Use a good old fashioned bolt extractor, like these: The Triton kits are for fixing blown out spark plug threads and they won't help you. You'll need to bust up any remaining ceramic, stick a shop vac close to the shell of the spark plug while you break the ceramic up with a small punch and a hammer. Turn the engine so that cylinder is at TDC so stuff can't fall way down inside. You might also use Dr Hess' trick of filling the cylinder with shaving cream to catch any bits and pieces.

Soak the shell in PB Blaster etc for at least an hour or so before going after it with the extractor. It would be nice if you could heat it as well, just use caution.

If the negative electrode does not come out with the shell, start looking for it, don't start the engine until you KNOW you have gotten it out!

To avoid a repeat performance, use copper anti seize on the plug threads.

Those long ones will loose the ground for sure. Used these instead. I've had a set of 30 forever and they allways work.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/irw53226.html

Bah, go to discount/advance whatever they go by now, and snag a set of the their cheepy extractors, they are the square type. not the reverses threaded type like those. When you are working with something hollow, like spark plugs, air fittings on a paintball gun etc. use the square kind. those reverse thread type just seem to tap themselves in and demolish what little there is left of a hollow set of threads. hopefully that makes sense.

like these

"standard" extractors won't fit, too little clearance. Those SJdiscounttools extractors show a little more promise.

Yup you broke the one in-line with steering colum right? the hanson units have a nice 6 side hex too so you use a real wrench on them, not and adjustable or a tap handle. MSC and granger sell them too so you should be able to find localy.

44

The tools for EARLIER triton motors are for threads, the ones for LATER triton motors are for extracting the broke-off tip, not thread problems.

That said, neither one will help you

Let us know what you arrive at.

In reply to 44Dwarf:

No, I broke the one in the back on the passenger side. I like the hex end idea. The square ones are useless. When was the last ime anyone broke a bolt off where you could get a tap handle on the extractor? How can you apply enough power to that flimsy things to do the job? With the hex you just use a wrench or socket and away you go. (till the extractor breaks anyhow).

Oh you lucked out. That was one of only 3 one to come out in the last Chevy i worked on..but heck the truck was donated to the local dirt track. Runs great with new plugs.

I've had good luck with a torx bit on an extension for hollow stuff or stuff I've already drilled a hole in. Find one that's just a little too big to fit in the hole and hammer it in.

The good news is with 7 other probably identical plugs you can test fit whatever you decide on in a well lit area like your workbench after busting up the other spark plug.

Success!! By going through the fenderwell, (with a little metal modification) I got a straight shot at the plug. Got the broken ceramic out with the shop vac, then pounded in a torx bit per psychic's sugestion. Came right out!

I'm dissappointed this did not involve a shotgun.