In reply to accordionfolder :
Race cars are a great place to learn bodywork!
In reply to accordionfolder :
Race cars are a great place to learn bodywork!
E46squeeze said:In reply to APEowner :
Is it possible to pull the b-pillar this way?
Yup. Although, I'd first see if I can stick the porta power wedge tool in between the cage and the b-pillar and push it out that way.
In reply to wvumtnbkr :
Thanks! I have more experience with that than I'd like...
As many have said suspension points are the key. The issue is finding a shop that is willing to stop profitable insurance work to fiddle with your track car. While it isn't necessary from an equipment and talent point of view your cage builder is likely the place to start. If they can't fix it they probably know a shop that will take it on.
itsarebuild said:As many have said suspension points are the key. The issue is finding a shop that is willing to stop profitable insurance work to fiddle with your track car. While it isn't necessary from an equipment and talent point of view your cage builder is likely the place to start. If they can't fix it they probably know a shop that will take it on.
Cage was built for his car and my car simultaneously in my shop (on the coast of Virginia) by a guy from Ohio. So, cage builder is unfortunately not a local resource.
How you fix your roof after your car goes turtle.
In reply to Spearfishin :
You have to hit a race car pretty hard before I'm really worried about the cage, and usually you already know there's no saving it in those circumstances. I would be really surprised a tire wall visit on the side bent the cage if the driver walked away.
Close inspection for cracks, etc.
This inner tie rod end look weird to you?
My totally amateur observation is that I cannot see where subframe or FCAB have shifted at all. Likewise, I didn't see any kinks or evidence that core support shifted, BUT the radiator is knocked loose, and both headlights' tabs snapped where they interface with the core support, so something shifted.
H.S. Senior picture + 20 years and one tire wall:
Spearfishin said:itsarebuild said:As many have said suspension points are the key. The issue is finding a shop that is willing to stop profitable insurance work to fiddle with your track car. While it isn't necessary from an equipment and talent point of view your cage builder is likely the place to start. If they can't fix it they probably know a shop that will take it on.
Cage was built for his car and my car simultaneously in my shop (on the coast of Virginia) by a guy from Ohio. So, cage builder is unfortunately not a local resource.
I think I know that guy!
Pete. (l33t FS) said:Spearfishin said:itsarebuild said:As many have said suspension points are the key. The issue is finding a shop that is willing to stop profitable insurance work to fiddle with your track car. While it isn't necessary from an equipment and talent point of view your cage builder is likely the place to start. If they can't fix it they probably know a shop that will take it on.
Cage was built for his car and my car simultaneously in my shop (on the coast of Virginia) by a guy from Ohio. So, cage builder is unfortunately not a local resource.
I think I know that guy!
If it's Adam, then you do...and if it's someone else, then that's a weird coincidence!
It's common for the tie rod to bend like that. Usually the lower control arm will bend or snap first before the cradle gets damaged.
As for the front end stuff breaking, do diagonal measurements from the front bolt for the fender to the opposite rear bolt for the fender. Both sides should be the same. If they don't match within a couple mm, something has swayed and it may or may not need a visit to the frame machine. Sometimes the upper core support will bend by itself and can just be replaced.
If you can make sure you don't have any cracks internal to that steering rack. If they're cheap enough I'd be swapping it and keeping that one as a backup.
I'm not familiar with those cars so it might be a self evident comment based on the damage - I just figured I'd throw it out there.
Phone calls to three body shops today to see if someone would just tell us what's what (put it on frame machine and measure). Have tangential relationship to all 3.
1.) "Haha. No."
2.) sent me to voicemail and hasn't called back. I left a detailed message. Taking that as a no.
3.) "$750 to put it on frame machine and measure. Anything from there we'd have to quote."
So as of now, don't think we're going to a body shop. For measurements of what I'll call hard points, what are they in reference to? For example, the subframe is still firmly bolted in place, but could all 4 bolts/mounting points have moved in unison?
In reply to Spearfishin :
The rack as mentioned may be cracked, but the tie rods bend so easily that it may be safe. If it cracks it'd be at the quill end. Highly unlikely to bend the rack itself, as it is much MUCH larger in diameter than the tie rods, but if you can go full lock both ways (pop the right outer tie rod end off the upright first, not the inner as that is also the steering stop) then it's probably fine. Good idea to verify it first then keep it as a spare as mentioned.
For the subframe mounting points, I have seen a chassis sproing when it was unbolted. If you can remove the two right side bolts and thread them back in easily, you're probably fine there.
For the radiator and headlights, the core support/lock carrier/whatever BMW calls it is probably bent.
It's 3 hours max to set up and measure a car. $750 is crack smoking, or more likely "we don't want to be bothered".
You can get the body dimensions from BMW or from any shop with a frame system. You don't need a fancy electronic system for what you need to know. They use 'tram gauges' on old school systems which are basically adjustable solid metal 'rules' that you measure from point to point, or hang under the car in sequence to see if everything is level.
As I said before, a few X measurements on the front of that should tell you most of what you need to know. Measure the top, and a few points on the lower frame rails.
In reply to ddavidv :
Thanks for the confirmation that the price felt a little steep. My own shop time is limited to some Thursday nights and sporadically on the weekends (domestic limitations), so just like to have as much of a game plan as possible to maximize what I can accomplish when I am [allowed] in there.
Did some YouTube watching last night and saw the diagrams you were referring to that gave a bunch of factory points and measurements. Would like to see if I can wrangle one of those for his car, and otherwise the tram gauge seemed easy enough to duplicate with some material in the shop to be able to make measurements around obstacles. Will hopefully report back again after this weekend (Thurs night I'll be toting a wagon from door to door with the offspring, so not getting in the shop.)
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