Can outside temp cause a carb’d vehicle to stall?

octavious said:

Todays report... one pump did not close the choke all the way, so I tried two. It didn't close either, but it started on the first crank. I drove it around for 30 mins and stopped to top off the tank with ethanol free. After filling up it started again on the first crank and I just got home. It seems to be working better. I won't say perfect, but definitely better. 

Now that you have made adjustments, pics of when it is closed (cold and no pumps) and fully open and at op temp would help. Pics always help. 

This is not an ethanol issue.

octavious said:

Todays report... one pump did not close the choke all the way, so I tried two. It didn't close either, but it started on the first crank. I drove it around for 30 mins and stopped to top off the tank with ethanol free. After filling up it started again on the first crank and I just got home. It seems to be working better. I won't say perfect, but definitely better. 

As compared to how it ran before you had issues?

I want to say in warmer weather you don't need as much choke - this fits my recollection with my old 73 Z (manual choke) as well now with the 320i (electric choke).  So that may be "normal".

It's pretty warm here (well... duh, Arizona desert in the summer....) and if I start when the heat is in swing, basically no choke action.  If I feather the throttle to just above idle and hold it open for a sec, seems it'll hold for a minute, and then idle will drop a bit and run a little low until it warms a bit.  

Drivable in any case, but I'll usually let it warm a bit before taking off.

In reply to L5wolvesf :

I'll have to get those tomorrow. I drove it this morning to take the kids to school 

In reply to ГУЛАГ мальчик УР следующий :

Yes I would say it idle and drives better than before any of my issues, stalling or not starting. 
 

I had to readjust the idle screw again because it was idling high. 

In reply to octavious :

Nice.  Enjoy!

I drove it almost everyday this week. It ran fine but I think I hear a little miss. This is the choke after one pump. I already changed the spark plugs. I didn't get to run it today because a thunderstorm came in and I don't have any type of top. 

In reply to octavious :

That looks the way it should when cold. Put up a pic of when the car has been at op temp for a little while.

Sorry been gone for work so it has sat since Saturday. It looked just like my last pic before I started it. It looks like this after a 30 min drive on a warm sunny day. 
 

It doesn't look like my choke is opening all the way. When I step on the throttle the choke opens but not all the way. 
 

I also don't think all the vacuum lines are hooked up correctly, but I'm having a hard time finding a diagram for this carb to this motor. I also don't have a charcoal canister and I'm curious if the ports for the lines that go there are some of the open ones on the carb. 

Also I did change and correctly gap the spark plugs which smoothed out the idle quite a bit. Even with the carb not seeming to work right the Jeep drives around fine. It burns a lot of gas tho. 

Lastly, since I seem to be having so many issues is it worthwhile to purchase a different carb? Not just new, but maybe a different model?  I don't like replacing parts just to replace parts but I'm struggling. 
 

Thanks. 

Reading back through it looks like the engine should be warm and then adjust the choke actuator to open the clutch. I think I adjusted it the wrong way. 

In reply to octavious :

Nope. You've got to figure out the rest of the issues before you even think of a new carburetor. Remember, a carburetor tune only works if everything else is correct. 
 

The choke can be adjusted so that it is fully open by removing the cover on the actuator and adjusting it WHILE IT IS AT OPERATING TEMP. 
 

As far as vacuum diagrams- what year, make, model and engine do you have?

L5wolvesf said:

Don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet so . . . 

The pic (cropped by me) is your choke activator. It is activated via the attached wire.

There are 3 screws on the face. They can be loosened so you can adjust the choke so it is fully open when the engine is at operating temp. Loosen the screws and turn the black face to adjust the choke position.

Do not forget to tighten the screws when done.

Sorry, don't remove the cover, just loosen it. 

I took it for another drive, and I adjusted the actuator so the choke looked like this. I then took it for another drive and came back and the choke looks like this. But...now the idle is back to being low. And as I was adjusting the idle screw to increase the idle it stalled. I started it back up and adjusted the idle screw again and got it to idle and run. 
 

My engine is a 1979 Buick V6 in a 1950 Willy's Jeep. 
 

edit- in this last pic the dashpot vacuum is off. I'm replacing that. 

In reply to octavious :

It stalled after you adjusted the choke because it went lean on the mixture. Now that the idle is properly adjusted, you should see a difference. 
 

Put the air cleaner etc. all back together. Grab a propane torch and turn on the gas without lighting the torch. Use the torch to "sniff" for vacuum leaks by flowing gas around the base of the carb and any open  ports. If your Idle changes, you have a leak. Fix it, and move on to the next one.

octavious said:

Reading back through it looks like the engine should be warm and then adjust the choke actuator to open the clutch. I think I adjusted it the wrong way. 

The engine should be warm (do you have a temp gauge in the car?) when you adjust the choke actuator to fully open.

Recon1342 said:

L5wolvesf said:

Don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet so . . . 

The pic (cropped by me) is your choke activator. It is activated via the attached wire.

There are 3 screws on the face. They can be loosened so you can adjust the choke so it is fully open when the engine is at operating temp. Loosen the screws and turn the black face to adjust the choke position.

Do not forget to tighten the screws when done.

Sorry, don't remove the cover, just loosen it. 

Correct - don't remove the cover, just loosen it

In reply to L5wolvesf :

Yes it has a temp gauge and it was good and warm before I adjust it. 

octavious said:

THIS is how it should be when the engine is at op temp.

octavious said:

I started it back up and adjusted the idle screw again and got it to idle and run. 

My engine is a 1979 Buick V6 in a 1950 Willy's Jeep. 

Now that the choke looks to be operating as designed, plugs are new and properly gapped - go back and check the timing and adjust the warm idle speed to the V6 specs.

Cause and affect.

* I then took it for another drive and came back and the choke looks like this. But...now the idle is back to being low. And as I was adjusting the idle screw to increase the idle it stalled. I started it back up and adjusted the idle screw again and got it to idle and run. *

With the choke plate open, a section of linkage is pulled and that rotates the fast idle cam to the off position.  Play with it and see for yourself.  Pull the throttle open with one hand and slowly push the choke plate back and forth and watch how the linkage moves.

I swear I'm not posting the same pic. I haven't driven it since the other day. I walked out and it looked like this. I pressed the gas pedal and it still looks like this. I thought when I pressed the gas prior to cranking the engine, it would cause the  choke to close. Isn't that right? 

Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems like whatever part is supposed to be masking the choke close after it has warmed up and sat overnight, and received a pump of gas isn't working. What part is that?

That choke actuator that you adjusted by rotating it. It has a bimetallic clock spring in it and an electric heater.  Bimetal spring pulls the choke closed when the car is cold, (after you've pressed the gas 1x)  The electric heating element heats up the bimetal spring and slowly opens the choke as the car warms up.  Is the heating element getting voltage?  I'm wondering if you might have spun the actuator around enough to make the choke stay open when cold, and the real problem is that the heating element is bad or not getting voltage. 

i.e. if you adjust the choke actuator so the choke is open while the heater isn't working, it's going to be totally whacked out. 

octavious said:

Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems like whatever part is supposed to be masking the choke close after it has warmed up and sat overnight, and received a pump of gas isn't working. What part is that?

When you loosened the 3 screws did you remove the black cover?

In reply to flat4_5spd :

Tha actuator has power going to it, but it sounds like you are talking about inside. Correct?