singleslammer
singleslammer UberDork
7/11/16 4:12 p.m.

So I have a set of these:

I want to machine them down as low as I can manage, weld a plate on to put another set of IRS on. I know that there is way more to the modifications to the rear to make this happen but this part I am concerned with at the moment. I have a master plan though.

Basically, I am try to figure out how to cut these down and get them flush without resorting to paying for machine time. I, sadly, don't have a bridgeport or similar though. Can I make something work at home or should I just suck it up and take them to the machine shop?

SkinnyG
SkinnyG Dork
7/11/16 4:20 p.m.

Angle grinder with a cutting disk?

Are you trying to Frankenstein axles here? Depends on how good you are with said grinder. I'd look at machining.

But - will your welds hold? Isn't that some sort of high-carbon steel?

Fueled by Caffeine
Fueled by Caffeine MegaDork
7/11/16 4:35 p.m.

You need a lathe or access to one.

chiodos
chiodos Dork
7/11/16 5:13 p.m.

Best route? Take a course at the local community college and use it just to make parts. Thats pretty much all i did the 2 years i was at one and they do have express courses that are a few weeks long.

Slippery
Slippery Dork
7/11/16 5:29 p.m.

You want to cut them down to that line?

If you can get them to me, I'll take care of the machining and send them back. But I need to know exactly what needs to be done.

Let me know.

Toyman01
Toyman01 MegaDork
7/11/16 5:36 p.m.

I bet those things are harder than old peoples toenails. They might have to be annealed before a machine tool will cut them.

A grinder, a quality measuring device, and a flat surface should get you pretty damn close. Worst case, you break an axle at the draggs. It won't be the first one.

Something like this, a piece of glass, and a lot of patience, would do the trick.

patgizz
patgizz UltimaDork
7/11/16 5:38 p.m.

so you are trying to make stub axles to bolt another cv shaft onto?

NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
7/11/16 5:46 p.m.

I am still trying to figure out what exactly you want to do? Are you reducing the diameter of the joint or cutting along the line?

If cutting along the line, and you have to do this without paying anyone, (cause challenge) what I would do is "chuck" the stub axle in the actual differential and spin the pinion to give you the lathe effect. Now all you need to do is feed in a cutting device perpendicular to the CV joint.

I would make a mitre box and locate a hacksaw blade over and into the CV joint as it spins. Or you could jig an angle grinder with a cut-off disc and feed that into the CV joint. More than a few ways to skin this cat depending on what you have in the garage.

singleslammer
singleslammer UberDork
7/11/16 6:24 p.m.

Awesome suggestions gang.

Patgizz got it right. I am wanting to attach bolt on axles to the stubs. I was hoping to find a diff with bolt on stubs but this was cheap and has a lsd, which is not easy to come by around here.

Robbie
Robbie UltraDork
7/11/16 9:25 p.m.
NOHOME wrote: I am still trying to figure out what exactly you want to do? Are you reducing the diameter of the joint or cutting along the line? If cutting along the line, and you have to do this without paying anyone, (cause challenge) what I would do is "chuck" the stub axle in the actual differential and spin the pinion to give you the lathe effect. Now all you need to do is feed in a cutting device perpendicular to the CV joint. I would make a mitre box and locate a hacksaw blade over and into the CV joint as it spins. Or you could jig an angle grinder with a cut-off disc and feed that into the CV joint. More than a few ways to skin this cat depending on what you have in the garage.

Quote for best solution yet.

singleslammer
singleslammer UberDork
7/11/16 9:29 p.m.

In reply to Robbie:

I agree, I think NOHOME hit it for best home solution but Slippery is being a true GRM savior. Thanks man!

motomoron
motomoron SuperDork
7/11/16 10:27 p.m.

As stated above, CV cups are hard but tough to withstand the crazy shock loads. So I'd guess case hardened from the colors I've seen on new, clean ones. So, as a person with a machine shop, I'd strenuously avoid taking this job on. If all you're using is the splined end and welding a flange on, you could get the cup dull red with oxy acetylene and a rosebud or big tip then part the unnecessary stuff off and face it square. But it's not the easiest work.

stan_d
stan_d Dork
7/12/16 6:06 a.m.

Did you look at nissan 240sx, 300 infinity j30 ? All those have lsd available with bolt on axels I put 375hp of v8 torque though one and didn't have a problem.

NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
7/12/16 10:34 a.m.

This a done deal yet?

singleslammer
singleslammer UberDork
7/12/16 11:10 a.m.

Planning on pulling the stubs tonight and dropping them in the mail.

NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
7/12/16 12:33 p.m.
singleslammer wrote: Planning on pulling the stubs tonight and dropping them in the mail.

Gotta love a happy ending!

singleslammer
singleslammer UberDork
7/13/16 8:36 a.m.

Took apart the diff and this happened

This stuff is hard but not nearly as hard as I thought it was going to be. Looks like our Redneck roots are working in our favor for once.

Thanks for the offer to help Slippery. Such a great community here.

NOHOME
NOHOME PowerDork
7/13/16 8:45 a.m.

So how did you do it?

The stub on the left looks to have a thicker base than the other one; will it matter?

singleslammer
singleslammer UberDork
7/13/16 10:11 a.m.

In reply to NOHOME:

We aren't down trimming. The one on the right still has the ears that need to come off. Then we are making a rig with a grinder to make a nice flat surface. I am not sure that a 1/8th of an inch difference in the stub lengths will matter.

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