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JohnRW1621
JohnRW1621 UltimaDork
12/28/13 6:06 p.m.

I recommend, going to Craigslist (CL) in your city and neighboring cities.
Choose the heading of "cars and trucks"
Specifically choose cars "by Owner - only"
Then, at the top of the CL page leave the "search" box empty.
Choose a min price of $100. This will keep you from seeing the people who put no price as well as the people who put $1 or $3.5 when they mean $3,500
Choose a max price that fits your budget (maybe choose a number a little higher than your budget considering you may negotiate the price down.) Be reasonable.
For "min year", maybe 1950
For "max year", maybe 1988
Leave make and model empty.
Choose "gallery" format.

You will now see every car and truck from available in your area from model years 1950-1988 in your price range.
Cruise through the pictures and click on the ones you find most interesting. Something you never thought of may pop up.

carbon
carbon HalfDork
12/28/13 8:36 p.m.

I for some reason want a ford falcon.

FSP_ZX2
FSP_ZX2 Dork
12/28/13 9:16 p.m.
Aimcat wrote: On the AMC cars - someone said parts would be hard to find? True or no?

They're not as easy as "big 3" parts in some cases...and just as easy in others (brakes, major electricals etc.). There are decent online networks, and with the internet usually someone can help source what you need. Kennedy American is a source for many items.

Aimcat
Aimcat New Reader
12/28/13 10:19 p.m.

Ok kinda narrowing it down to a 76-77 mustang cobra ii, mid to late 70s nova, or a 76 chevelle....... Found these that need a little work but very straight and rust free. Thoughts?

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltraDork
12/28/13 10:47 p.m.

I don't think there is such a thing as a rust free mustang II.

HappyAndy
HappyAndy SuperDork
12/28/13 10:55 p.m.
Aimcat wrote: Ok kinda narrowing it down to a 76-77 mustang cobra ii, mid to late 70s nova, or a 76 chevelle....... Found these that need a little work but very straight and rust free. Thoughts?

All those sound like good candidates. Now you need to go check them out in person to see which one is in the best condition. Personally I'm biased towards the mustang II, especially the cobra, but parts availability would likely be better, or at least cheaper for the Chevys. Not that that Ford parts can't be had, you just won't be tripping over them as you walk down the sidewalk, like you would with the GM parts.

ddavidv
ddavidv PowerDork
12/29/13 6:05 a.m.

The Mustang II's don't get a lot of love. Having driven a V8 Cobra II, I can see why. They are miserable little turds, IMO. Keep in mind I say this generally being a Ford guy. Stock, they make about as much HP as a lawn mower. The manual transmissions were very weak. The suspension, despite being used as a donor for street rods everywhere, is not very inspiring. The interiors were 1970s rattletraps. The few still in existence, coupled with Ford's and the repro companies general malaise about them, means parts for anything other than running/chassis parts will be hard to source. Unless the thing is done up so well it looks like the cars below, expect 90% of the people who see it at a cruise night to walk right past, with many snickering.

Can they be made cool? Yeah, I suppose, with a lot of work and re-engineering.

A 79--> Fox chassis Mustang is still saddled with a poorly designed suspension and slightly flabby body, but the difference in available parts (and cars) is night and day from the M-II. And, if you want the sleeper look, all the same stuff you can do to them, you can do to a Fairmont:

As for your other choices, I think the Nova (or it's weirdo cousins the Ventura, Apollo, etc) are the best choice. A 1970s Chevelle/Malibu is going to be a porky beast and offers nothing over the Nova, IMO.

Now, the early 1980s Chevelle/Malibu is a different story. These are becoming quite popular and I think offer a much better platform. Wagons are especially cool. Photo sample not the best one, but gives you an idea of the body style, and there are still a good number of these out there.

Aimcat
Aimcat New Reader
12/29/13 7:29 a.m.

Wow I had no idea these were such crapo cars. After the above post it makes me want to stay far far away. What drew me into the one we saw was it was white with red exterior and interior was near mint with all white and red trim.

trucke
trucke Reader
12/29/13 11:11 a.m.

How about a Maverick. Former GRM Challenge Car. Needs engine and driveline, but could fit into your price range.

http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/4262996208.html

I have a 1974 ford mavrick built for autocross racing and or road racing, or just a street car. Car has built 9" ford with 4:10 gear, spool, 28 spline axles, custom sway bar, has full adjustable tubular control arms in front to make exact camber needed, gauges, racing seats cowl hood. Body of the car In very good shape car has newer model 17" cobra r wheels with great tires car is roller only needs motor an tranny all running gear is practically new askin $1400.00 Obo possible trade! Call or txt (828) 989-7361 no emails and no junk! Thanks.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltraDork
12/29/13 11:19 a.m.

That maverick and a cheap rusted out late 80s mustang GT to donate and engine and trans would be a pretty quick setup

MadScientistMatt
MadScientistMatt UltraDork
12/29/13 3:51 p.m.
Aimcat wrote: Wow I had no idea these were such crapo cars. After the above post it makes me want to stay far far away. What drew me into the one we saw was it was white with red exterior and interior was near mint with all white and red trim.

Keep in mind that none of the bad points he listed are anything that can't be fixed, other than the scarcity of reproduction parts. If the car's all there, you can hop up the engine, swap in a 5 speed, improve the handling, all a bit more easily than fixing a rusted car. And mushy handling and a lack of power will be common to just about any '70s muscle car in stock form - most of the '60s cars, too, compared to today's performance cars. The upside is that it doesn't take much to make a big improvement.

If you like the looks of the Mustang II, don't let its stock performance stop you from getting one - just know that it takes a few mods to wake it up.

Aimcat
Aimcat New Reader
12/29/13 6:29 p.m.

The factory engines in the V8 mustang is pretty weak isn't it? Realistically what does it cost to change an engine?

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltraDork
12/29/13 7:04 p.m.

In reply to Aimcat:

Depends on the mustang and the engine. Up until 72-73 any American V8 is pretty strong, after that they are all pretty awful until they got fuel injection.

Aimcat
Aimcat New Reader
12/29/13 7:13 p.m.

Oh yeah I should have specified I meant the 76-77 Mustangs.

HappyAndy
HappyAndy SuperDork
12/29/13 7:55 p.m.

In reply to Aimcat: Which mustang are you talking about, and by weak, do you mean reliability or power output?

With very few exceptions the V8s in any mustang that you would be looking at will be one of several versions of the common small-block Ford. They will be 302 cubic inches, sometimes called a 5.0 liter. When maintained properly and not abused, they are perfectly reliable by American V8 standards. They are not all created equal when it comes to power. The good news is that the 5.0 high output (5.0 HO) is cheap and plentiful and is bolt in swap. You could even use a fuel injected version if your ambitious. The injected engines can also be converted to carburetors if you're not.

For example, you could get the maverick above with no engine and trans, get the 5.0 HO and automatic transmission from a mid-eighties to early-nineties mustang, or possibly Crown Victoria, and need only a handful of other parts to make it a running, driving and respectably quick Maverick. And all that could be done within your stated budget.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltraDork
12/29/13 8:09 p.m.

And don't be afraid of the swapping an engine in an old American car, all you need is the crane(buy a used one on CL), a decent socket set, and maybe some friends and beer. Nothing to one, about a step harder than changing brake pads. Easily a weekend project if you have a parts store in a bad neighborhood available(more likely to have things like mounts and gaskets in stock for a 70s car if you got the wrong ones). The internet, on here or elsewhere, will give you any knowledge you need.

Aimcat
Aimcat New Reader
12/29/13 8:30 p.m.

Thoughts on a 73 Mach 1 with 351w all original but not running.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltraDork
12/29/13 8:30 p.m.

If its solid, go for it.

aussiesmg
aussiesmg MegaDork
12/29/13 8:34 p.m.

Yeah, check it for rust, but if it is a real Mach 1 for $3500, and not too rusty it should be in your driveway already.

If you dont want it send me the link.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltraDork
12/29/13 8:36 p.m.

Yeah, a real Mach 1 is a rare case of a car you can't really lose money on, should the project stall.

MadScientistMatt
MadScientistMatt UltraDork
12/30/13 7:40 a.m.
Kenny_McCormic wrote: And don't be afraid of the swapping an engine in an old American car, all you need is the crane(buy a used one on CL), a decent socket set, and maybe some friends and beer. Nothing to one, about a step harder than changing brake pads. Easily a weekend project if you have a parts store in a bad neighborhood available(more likely to have things like mounts and gaskets in stock for a 70s car if you got the wrong ones). The internet, on here or elsewhere, will give you any knowledge you need.

That assumes you are swapping an engine for one that's externally the same - e.g. putting a different 302 or 289 into the Mustang, not swapping in a big block or going EFI. Changing engine type can mean modifying a lot of little things to get everything to clear, and fabricating an exhaust. EFI will require a high pressure fuel system and wiring harness. But if the engine is from the same family, it may take a lot of steps, but the steps themselves are all pretty easy.

Aimcat
Aimcat New Reader
12/30/13 8:29 a.m.

The Mach 1 I am looking at is all original, engine supposedly has 80k miles but title says 180,000. would that be a big thing - mileage on an old car? It has a 351 W, not sure if that is ok or the Cleveland is better? Its not running and they are unsure of what it needs. In a case like that is it best to take to a mechanic and have them start working on it? We do not own a car trailer so would rent one to pick up but not sure about after that what is best to do? A friend owns this Mustang and I could buy for 2000.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UltraDork
12/30/13 1:47 p.m.

Should be a 351 Cleveland or 302 Windsor if its original, though at $2000 for a complete mustang, if rot free, straight and square with good shock towers, that's a deal regardless of whats original. Miles really don't matter on old cars like this, as what does wear out can be rebuilt relatively cheap and easy.

Aimcat
Aimcat New Reader
12/30/13 1:55 p.m.

Throwing a wrench in things here - same friend has a relative with another mustang. They said it is a 1971 mach 1, but has badging on the outside saying boss 351. It is possibly in a little better shape but doesn't have the wing on the back. They say it needs a fuel pump to run. The next thing I found is a 71 Torino GT and has a 351 in it, needs paint, and interior, carpet etc. All body work is done.

stroker
stroker Dork
12/30/13 1:58 p.m.

I doubt you'll find a Javelin for that money (I'm no expert) but you might find a Hornet. Some of those have been built nicely.

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