Japanspec
Japanspec Reader
3/31/24 8:38 p.m.

Hey fellow GRM'ers. I may have made a dumb and need some advice now that its said and done. While changing the crankshaft seal on my kei truck, it seems I may have gouged toward the inner end/back of where the seal mating surface is (pictured below). Now I'm not sure if it was me or it was like that when it came from Japan, but anywho, I have to figure out what to do.

What advice do you guys have for me on how to knock this down and get a decent seal? Is there any reason I should not use RTV on the OD of the seal when I put it in there?

I wonder how screwed I really am at this point.

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
3/31/24 8:45 p.m.

Take a dead Sawzall blade and sharpen the side of the tang on the tool end with a file.  Key will be to make sure the file is always drawn flat.  You will be making a scraper edge with it.  The aluminum not only gouges easily but will scrape easily, especially with a nice hard steel. 

Now you have made a micro scraper.  Scrape the bore "lengthwise" until it no longer has a raised edge.  

Put a smear of Right Stuff on the seal where the gouges are, and press the seal in.

 

I am not a fan of going all around the outside of the seal because I have had them pop out, but you'll be fine with just that little bit.

 

I have had to do this on oil pumps like yours, axle seal bores in front drive transmissions, and once on the shift shaft seal bore on an E30's manual trans.

It will probably be fine even if you don't do this because the gouges don't appear to be where the business part of the seal is, but if you're careful then it can't hurt.  Plus you get to make a tool.

 

All of my gasket scrapers have a sharpened side just for this reason.  I've also had to make a mini scraper out of a Sawzall blade to gently open up the dowel holes for a Chrysler 3.7 head to get it to seat because the head grew in length when it had been straightened.  Aluminum is easy to remove with patience and a sharp edge.

Japanspec
Japanspec Reader
3/31/24 9:07 p.m.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:

Take a dead Sawzall blade and sharpen the side of the tang on the tool end with a file.  Key will be to make sure the file is always drawn flat.  You will be making a scraper edge with it.  The aluminum not only gouges easily but will scrape easily, especially with a nice hard steel. 

Now you have made a micro scraper.  Scrape the bore "lengthwise" until it no longer has a raised edge.  

Put a smear of Right Stuff on the seal where the gouges are, and press the seal in.

 

I am not a fan of going all around the outside of the seal because I have had them pop out, but you'll be fine with just that little bit.

 

I have had to do this on oil pumps like yours, axle seal bores in front drive transmissions, and once on the shift shaft seal bore on an E30's manual trans.

It will probably be fine even if you don't do this because the gouges don't appear to be where the business part of the seal is, but if you're careful then it can't hurt.  Plus you get to make a tool.

 

All of my gasket scrapers have a sharpened side just for this reason.  I've also had to make a mini scraper out of a Sawzall blade to gently open up the dowel holes for a Chrysler 3.7 head to get it to seat because the head grew in length when it had been straightened.  Aluminum is easy to remove with patience and a sharp edge.

Thanks! That sounds like something I can give a shot. Just thinking out loud here, is there any reason not to carefully and gently use a mini file to knock it down a bit? Maybe thats a terrible idea but just curious what your thoughts on that are.

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
3/31/24 9:38 p.m.

Will respond in a bit. Phone dying.  But file BAD

Japanspec
Japanspec Reader
3/31/24 9:57 p.m.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:

Will respond in a bit. Phone dying.  But file BAD

Sounds good, curious to hear your thoughts...it sounded like a good idea in my head but I'm open to learning!

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
3/31/24 10:39 p.m.

Files have teeth, they will gouge the bore a lot more than a scraper would.  You'd be making it a ton worse, not better.

 

Just a clarification, I meant to scrape around the diameter, perpendicular to the gouges. 

 

 

Japanspec
Japanspec Reader
4/1/24 10:16 a.m.

Sounds good, I appreciate the help! No file it is then. I'll give the micro scraper idea a try when I have the chance.

APEowner
APEowner UltraDork
4/1/24 10:28 a.m.

Frankly, I'd just put a little Loctite 518 anaerobic flange sealant on the OD of the seal and install it as is.

aw614
aw614 HalfDork
4/1/24 10:59 a.m.

Would one of those crankshaft sleeves work? I saw Dorman selling them for Hondas, but never tried one before

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/engines---transmissions/engine-gaskets/crankshaft-repair-sleeve/50e53f946587 

Japanspec
Japanspec Reader
4/1/24 1:52 p.m.
aw614 said:

Would one of those crankshaft sleeves work? I saw Dorman selling them for Hondas, but never tried one before

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/engines---transmissions/engine-gaskets/crankshaft-repair-sleeve/50e53f946587 

Possibly, although isn't that for the crankshaft side and not the OD which if I'm not mistaken is the oil pump?

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
4/1/24 2:37 p.m.

In reply to Japanspec :

Correct.

Japanspec
Japanspec Reader
4/6/24 11:53 a.m.

Question for you guys, if I accidentally put the oil seal in ever so slightly past flush, am I going to have problems? This kei truck is killing me.

Pete. (l33t FS)
Pete. (l33t FS) MegaDork
4/6/24 11:58 a.m.

Eh it's fine.  Possibly for the better, so the seal is riding in a different spot.

Japanspec
Japanspec Reader
4/6/24 1:21 p.m.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:

Eh it's fine.  Possibly for the better, so the seal is riding in a different spot.

Thanks! Appreciate your help!

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