Getting ready to wire up the TR4 - needless to say I'm a novice at car wiring so any help is welcome - oh com relay is for an onboard compressor - long story - it powers the clutch
Getting ready to wire up the TR4 - needless to say I'm a novice at car wiring so any help is welcome - oh com relay is for an onboard compressor - long story - it powers the clutch
That looks well organized. I’ll ask though, what are your fuse amp ratings? And have you measured those circuits, to know what you are pulling? It’s always a shame to see a car go up in flames...
one other thing- it goes battery, fuse, relay, and then load. Try to get the fuses as close to the battery source as possible.
Biggest draw is the compressor at 20-25 Amps when it kicks on, fan and fuel pump are the next two at more like 15 amp or less. Was thinking small deka for a battery behind the passenger area
Looks good, although I prefer to ground side switch relays as it makes wiring a lot neater. The relay's main powerfeed and coil powerup can come from the same source and the switch only needs one wire going to it if you have a good ground source nearby.
That's a matter of taste more than anything.
In reply to Knurled :
Did I miss something? I thought I had a common ground for the relays to run just one wire to switches. Switches would ground off another ground post behind the dash
In reply to curtis73 :
It's just adobe indesign. Broke out a ruler and drew some boxes and circles, the only cad I know is cardboard aided design
In reply to oldtin :
What I was trying to describe is, the switches control the ground side of the relay coil, not the power side. (The black wires would be powers, not grounds, and could simply be spliced into the blue wires. The other sides of the switches would be grounds) Some OEM relays are actually configured for this internally, they only have three connections, power in, power out, and a ground for the coil.
The only downside of this is that it's really finicky to make lighted switches work so I never bothered to try. I'm sure there's a way to do it though.
Ah, got it. naturally I'm using lighted switches, so I think I'll live with an extra ground run on the panel
Trackmouse said:That looks well organized. I’ll ask though, what are your fuse amp ratings? And have you measured those circuits, to know what you are pulling? It’s always a shame to see a car go up in flames...
one other thing- it goes battery, fuse, relay, and then load. Try to get the fuses as close to the battery source as possible.
Actually, the preferred load side circuit design is "Battery, fuse, load, relay (contacts), ground." Ground side switching uses the voltage drop across the load to reduce the voltage at the relay, which causes less arcing and less wear.
I also like to switch the ground side of relay coils. It allows me to have multiple controls on one relay, without having to worry about back feeding, and getting power on something unintended.
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