Diff specs

Well, I don't have access to some of the stuff I used to in regards to specs and such. Got the rear diff out of the 06 Sierra (8.5"). The first ring gear bolt snapped off in the ring gear (good job GM). So, it's getting a new LSD carrier, ring and pinion and bearings. What I need are the specs. Torque specs on the carrier caps, the ring bolts and any end play etc if anyone has access to this.

I know this forum is such a treasure trove of information that I would guess the information will magically appear before noon EST.

Differential specs run pretty standard.

Ring gear bolts- 95-105 ft.lbs. bearing cap bolts- 47-67 ft. lbs. ring gear backlash- .005- .008 Bearing preload is most important. Correct pinion depth is critical.

Those are just some general specs. I gathered from my library. Bolt size can vary torque specs.

See, I knew the answer would be here.

Is that one with left hand threads on the ring gear bolts?

The half bolt that came out looked like normal threads to me.

http://www.crawlpedia.com/ring_pinion_setup.htm

Randy's ring and pinion has a great web site with loads of specs.

And it's all done! Yay! now spins TWO tires and doesn't scream under load at 40mph anymore! more importantly, I now have garage space for the next project coming next weekend.

also, wasn't expecting to feel the diff this much. tight turns (it's 20' long, so there are plenty) I can audibly hear and feel it. It's been 20 years since I've had an LSD so I may have just forgotten how it sounds/feels. Of course, I am also a little paranoid that I didn't do something just right and it's going to explode. Although, technically Stan did it so I can just blame him lol.

If it just moans or chatters a little bit, try not to worry about it. You can put in friction modifier if the noise bothers you more than less traction would, because friction modifier quiets it by making everything slipperier. I left the friction modifier out of my old 91 f-150, then ran it for 10 years with no issues except noise.

My '96 F-150 has an interesting habit of scuffing the inside tire on dry or wet pavement, but one legging on ice. That's frustrating as hell (but I can combat it by putting the parking brake on a click or two).

Yeah, I'm not all that upset by it. Took it to lunch... the biggest problem is the interior still smells like gear lube. That is one automotive smell that I just can't handle.

How I the gear lube get into the interior? I agree on the smell.

The Trac-Lok in my KJ started light shuddering shortly after break in. Some friction modifier fixed it. After switching to Amsoil there also was no problem even without the fm.

All spec numbers were good.

At the 500 mile mark I might go the Amsoil route. I see enough of their fluids tested that I know it's good stuff, just pricey.

As for the smell inside, well..... I got impatient. I wanted to test drive it and did so wearing the nasty clothes I had on while working on it, and didn't even wash my hands.

Also... it's so much quieter than before. I didn't realize just how LOUD that thing had gotten.

In reply to Bobzilla:

I was gonna ask you if you were smelling the interior or you. :)

hehe.. power on oversteer in a 5500lb 20' long truck is fun.

Hint on GM Truck Diff Gears... from 2000 up they are sintered metal and can explode if shocked to heavily....think inside rear spins freely and then slams to the ground and BANG, diff blows. Solution... be sure to allow the rear end to droop in corning load and stay in contact with the ground.

Sintered metal gears? Holy crap. What has the world come to?

snailmont5oh wrote: Sintered metal gears? Holy crap. What has the world come to?

Cheap, fast, reliable. Apparently we know which two GM chose.

Gotta ask because its starting to drive me nutso. Diff makes the groaning noise when turning only after it's warmed up. Cold it's quiet. I used 4oz of the GM additive and the CAstrol Diff lube with the friction modifier in it as well. fluid level is full.

Is this just going to take time to quiet down? I havent gotten the full 500 miles on it yet so I can change the fluid out again but I might put 2 bottles of FM in this time.

https://www.ringpinion.com/technicalhelp/TechHelp.aspx

44Dwarf wrote: https://www.ringpinion.com/technicalhelp/TechHelp.aspx

did not answer my question in the least.

What "explodes" in a one wheel spin is the spider gears fail. A relatively easy repair.

Back when CJ's were used for snow plowing and people put chains on two wheels.

We would just install a new set of spider gears after cleaning out the debris. Having to replace any other parts was rare.

Bobzilla wrote:

44Dwarf wrote: https://www.ringpinion.com/technicalhelp/TechHelp.aspx

did not answer my question in the least.

call or e-mail them. they are very helpfull in the past