DIY Auto Paint

So, this years challenge car was rattle can paint and looked like rattle can paint. Part of that was that I didn't spent a lot of time on it and didn't do any between coat sanding or anything like that. I was mainly trying to do a QUICK paint job. Also, this was the first time I've ever painted an entire car. It was definately a learning experience.

So, for future projects I'd like a little bit better paint job. I have a spray gun but only own a pancake air compressor.

Here are my questions. How big of an air compressor do I need to spray a car? How many coats of primer, paint, and clear should I expect to spray and about what does that equal in amount of paint I need to buy (think something the size of a Civic)? I would also like some tips on wet sanding since I've never done it before.

Compressor will be decided by your spray gun. Your gun has a CFM requirement and your compressor should be at or above that.

I've been able to spray small cars with a small portable 20gal compressor that was underrated for my gun, it can be done but you have to plan carefully.

Am I right in thinking that you could use a smaller compressor, you would just have to keep stopping while the tank fills?

some of the newer HVLP guns do not need a lot of volume. I picked up an upright 30gal compressor for only $60 from a contractor going out of business.

If your compressor is a bit too small, then you need to compensate with air storage; what size is the tank? I would not try to paint with a tankless compressor.

If you have an air storage tank, you can paint until it gets low. Then you wait for the thing to fill and repeat. It can get the job done.

Automotive paint is quite expensive. One way to save money is to use whatever mis-mixed paint your supplier has around. The bigger the place the more of this stuff they will have. Limits color choice, but it will be automotive quality. You still end up with a few hundred in thinners, hardeners reducers and primers. Keep in mind that automotive paint can be quite toxic what with the isocyanates in the hardener; inadequate air supply is the least of your worries.

Have you looked at the rustoleum paint jobs on the net? Everyone seems to roll the stuff on, but I see no reason not to spray. For a challenge car, you are into maybe 20 bucks worth of paint. Will look much better than spray bombs.

I have a 33 gallon tank on my compressor, but it is only a 110v motor. I sprayed my truck with an HVLP (compressor at 100 psi, gun at around 45 psi). It ran almost non-stop but managed not to lose any pressure.

Be sure and get a moisture trap, a big drop of water in the middle of your hood will piss you off.

Just as an aside, it would be pretty cool if there were some grassroots level paints that were both environmentally and healtwise safe. It would make the neighbors a whole lot less mad if your garage didn't stink, and I'm sure spouses would appreciate the lack of paint smell, too.

I know there is an aftermarket water based system out there, but not exacly ready for professional delivery, reading the websites, let alone backyard applications.

Think of the cool publicity if the Challenge was sponsored by a paint that you could spray in your back yard with just a simple resporator to keep the solids out of your face.... That would be way cool. And we would not have stories like Per's when he went to the hospital....

Eric

alfadriver wrote: Think of the cool publicity if the Challenge was sponsored by a paint that you could spray in your back yard with just a simple resporator to keep the solids out of your face.... That would be way cool. And we would not have stories like Per's when he went to the hospital....

Heard mixed things on this as it is supposed to be easy to spray, but the longevity is in question as it is a lacquer.

Upsides: is that any Autozone carries it and it is sold by the quart, so you can only buy what you need. Also with a rewards card you can get end up getting a quart free if you buy them separately (five separate $20 purchases = free $20 credit). Also no reducer or hardener as it is already pre-reduced.

Downsides: is you have to use the PaintShop primer and clear because it is a lacquer. COULD be pricer due to it's ease, figure $20 for each quart X 3 for primer, X 3 for base, X3 for clear = $180. Limited colors. Longer dry and flash times.

For going cheap, Rustoleum Professional and a HF HVLP gun is the way to go. I have like eight bucks in paint for this:

jwdmotorsports wrote: So, this years challenge car was rattle can paint and looked like rattle can paint. Part of that was that I didn't spent a lot of time on it and didn't do any between coat sanding or anything like that. I was mainly trying to do a QUICK paint job. Also, this was the first time I've ever painted an entire car. It was definately a learning experience. So, for future projects I'd like a little bit better paint job. I have a spray gun but only own a pancake air compressor. Here are my questions. How big of an air compressor do I need to spray a car? How many coats of primer, paint, and clear should I expect to spray and about what does that equal in amount of paint I need to buy (think something the size of a Civic)? I would also like some tips on wet sanding since I've never done it before.

Honestly you need to check this forum out http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=5&sid=f1746f8128dfc6bb615819bdc11edb0b There is A LOT of info for you on DIY auto painting.

I'd stay away from the lacquer also. There are budget BC/CC kits out there that are worlds better. The PPG shopline line is decent and cheap. You might want to check out your local PPG supplier and see what it would run you to get the materials you need.

edit: For my last paint job I used 80 gallon IR compressor with a Devilbliss HVLP gun, House of Color basecoat, and SPI universal clear. I let that sit out for a couple of weeks in the sun since it was black, then wetsanded with 1500, 2000, then buffed with Optimum compounds (very little dust). I could get away with a smaller compressor than that, but for a quality paint job that will last go BC/CC.

jwdmotorsports wrote: Here are my questions. How big of an air compressor do I need to spray a car? I used a CH 110v 35 gal tank and $40 spray gun. Get some cheap inline moisture filters and take your time. My compressor would kick in and I would finish the panel and wait a couple of minutes for it to shut off before I would restart. How many coats of primer, paint, and clear should I expect to spray and about what does that equal in amount of paint I need to buy (think something the size of a Civic)? Will depend on the paint. I used 2 coats primer and 4 coats paint. BTW I used a OMNI single stage paint. No clear = less cost, and more forgiving in case you screw up. by that I mean if you get a run you can just let the paint dry and then either sand and repaint or use a razor and wet sand it. For a first time I would recommend looking a single stage paint. I would also like some tips on wet sanding since I've never done it before. 1200 to start, then 1500, then 2000. Lots o' water with a little dish soap added to act as a lubricant. Use a flexible block so it's even. Take you time!, don't burn thru the clear or paint if single stage. I used Meguiars compounds and pads to polish.

Zoom- I'm familiar with that duplicolor product- but is it really that safe? No harm to humans or the environment? That's what I'm looking for.

E-

Doc, is that out of the gun paint, or did it get a hum & a buff before the photo?

Dan

That's just as it was after I shot it from the gun. No buffing at all, just let it dry. I thinned the Rustoleum about 20% with plain "made with mineral spirits" paint thinner. More thinner means longer drying time. Less thinner means it doesn't shoot well.

I used the NAPA line of single-stage paint when doing the stripes on the Targa car, and I was really happy with how it laid down. I haven't done anything to it other than pull the tape off and it's got a great gloss. I also tried PPG Omni and it worked well enough, but I don't think the shine is as deep as it dries.

I have a bit of paint repair to do on the rear bumper of the BMW, I'm not sure I have the nerve to tackle that.

As for compressors, I have a 60 gallon tank with a good pump on it - it's rated to the same as my guns. It's far more than I need, the pump only comes on occasionally when I'm painting, and it'll fill the tank faster than I'm using air.

Be sure and get a moisture trap, a big drop of water in the middle of your hood will piss you off.

^^^wisdom.

Also, call me a big fat stinking liar if you'd like, but we painted the s00p3rturd for ~$120 all in using this stuff:

http://www.wandarefinish.com/index.shtml

Granted, it's not the best quality; the paint is lifting around the edge of the hood, and we had to respray some of the interior/underhood between challenges, but you get what you pay for. The sweat equity really comes in on prep/wetsanding/buffing.

Are paints compatible?

If you use ===== primer, do you have to use the same company's top coat? Will any paint go over any primer-sealer?

Fisheyes, orangepeel, etc. come to mind.

There's always rollered Rustoleum/Tremclad

slantvaliant wrote: There's always rollered Rustoleum/Tremclad

+1, or better yet, Interlux Brightside. Rolled it on my BMW that was on the back page an issue or two ago. Very happy with it. 2 tone, 2 quarts, about $130. Great shine right off the roller.

About the lacquer, I have to paint my truck soon, and my wife corrently ponts out that a 72 GMC isn't supposed to be deep and shiny, like a BC/CC, or even flat and shiny, like a SS. The lacquer seems perfect, and cheap. Has anyone used it before, with the understanding that it's going to look like lacquer? That could be a good choice for me.

Whoops

/end hijack

The S10 Challenger is Rustoleum.....pity the painter sucks

What if I want to paint a canoe?

jwdmotorsports said:

Am I right in thinking that you could use a smaller compressor, you would just have to keep stopping while the tank fills?

Oops. Pressure drops as you use up the air and painting changes closer to a rattle can. 
but here's a trick.  hook a couple or even several compressors together.  I have a big 5 hp/ 90 gallon tank and a little 1/2 hp gallon tank and it's enough for my old air hog spray guns. Sanding equipment and to blow out the sprinklers in the fall.  

In reply to jwdmotorsports :

I use  EBay or amazon Lacquer paint. Its's cheap it dries fast and the inevitable runs, drips, and mistakes can be sanded smooth  quickly  sometimes I don't even need to repeat. 
Work wise any paint job will take about the same  time and reflect the same care. 
Just don't use pearls or metallics  or Candy apple. it's hard no matter what you paint with to do a good job with those  

before you poo poo Lacquer  realize the really high dollar paint jobs at Pebble beach are typically lacquer. And the depth and gloss of them can't be duplicated by any other finish. 

Realize  that the myth of cracking flaking etc is due to poor judgement and technics rather than the paint. Please come by and look at my first lacquer paint job done in 1973.  It's not flawless but I take it with pride to local car shows. 
I actually won awards for paint in the first decade or so and it's a good thing they didn't see the mess I started with. 
Yes you can buy lacquer even in California 

The great news is a regular N95 dust mask is really all you need. No suit,  no fresh air supply, etc. 

I push the car outside to paint rather than get overspray all over the garage.  newspaper big chunks of carbboard   Underneath to protect the driveway   

There are tricks and methods. I'd like to share 

I had never thought about Daisy chaining air compressors. 

You definitely don't want to have to stop and wait for tanks to fill. That's how you get zebra striping and worse. 

Honestly if the rattle can paint is on there already, wet sand it and see how it looks. If you really want to make it look better, wet sand then,  do a light coat respray it with rattle can again then lay 2k clear over it while wet. Once cured wetsand one last time. If it doesn't pass as an automotive paint job at that time, prepwork was the issue.