Do I really need E range tires? (grassroots towing content)

So I am on the hunt for new tires for frankenburban but I am not sure if I should go with E range or D range. I am not looking for a mud terrain tires but a standard all terrian tire would do well. There are more sizes in the D range, as I would like to go up in size a step or two to be able to lower highway RPMs at 65mph.

But with an E range I can have more load, run higher pressures.

Its a big truck with a mostly stock SBC 350 and the dual axle trailer is about 2200 lbs with a car + equipment of maybe 2800 lbs. I'm not towing a boat or 10,000 lbs because it doesn't have the power for that either but the tires for it is going to cost about what I paid for the truck so I only want to buy this once ideally.

so whats GRM's input? D or E?

E range is for the 1 ton trucks isn't it? If so, D range will be fine.

Considering that a "D" is rated to 10,492 for 4 tires (2623 max each), your burb weighs 5-6k with a max trailer weight of 5k, they're right on the edge. But sinde the weight of the trailer is not fully on the truck , I think you'd be fine. An E tire is only 1676lbs more capacity.

I would keep the tire size the same. Many people find that taller gearing actually hurts the mileage, and even more so when towing. A "D" tire will ride significantly better than an "E" also.

I run E load tires on the 3/4 ton. I don't have to worry about trailer towing or hauling stuff. For me, its a no brainer.

I actually prefer an "E" on trucks and vans. Even 1/2tons.

In reply to Fobroader:

Yeah my rig is a 3/4 ton. at 63mph it is at 3000 rpm. If I can just dip it down a bit it would be better. I think I can pick up 1mpg for going to a slightly taller tire and aluminum wheels. The truck has 4.10s and manifolds setup for low peak torque so it crawls around in any gear no problem, just on the uphills it will take some gas.

Right now it has 285/75/16. I want to go to a 295/75/16 or possibly 305/75/16 but without giving it a lift or cutting fenders/adding fender flares, it currently has add-a-leafs.

I don't know if I would notice the ride better between D and E range, It seems to be an uphill battle since its solid f/r axle and leafs on all 4 corners.

The stiffer the tire, the better the tow. Less wiggling, less drama. Sure, a stiffer tire rides rougher. Tempest in a tea pot for cars pulling a lawn mower on a little Harbor Freight trailer. Start towing cars and equipment, and those stiffer sidewalls start to shine and be appreciated. Can also matter for heavy loads in the bed of the truck. Soft walled car-like tires sure do squirm around when there's a load of firewood in the bed.

Yeah right now I feel I am literally on the fence for my useage for D or E range but should I end up towing a friends jeep and a quad or two to the dunes or something I bet I will be wanting E range...

I run BFGoodrich Commercial T/A's on my C-30 Dooley. They're load range E. Truck is as comfortable as an ox-cart, but I don't seriously believe that a lighter tire would improve that in any meaningful way. There's never any question about whether the truck or the tires can handle any given situation, and that's the way I like it.

When I installed E-range tires on my 2500 Cummins, I didn't really notice much change in ride quality from the incorrect P265/70-17 tires they replaced. The tires sure looked happier when I loaded 3 yards of mulch (~3000 lbs) into the bed, tho...

I run E's on my F2fitty diesel. Just the truck weighs in over 7k pounds - add any real load and you're at the limit of the D range tires. I don't like running any equipment right at its limit.

The E's have a significant "stiffness" advantage, noticeable when towing for sure. Much more stable.

The stiffer sidewalls on an e have been noticeable for me when towing with a single rear wheel tow rig.

I think I'm going to play it safe and go with E range, if it is so close to the limit why risk it? Also I don't want to buy tires twice. Maybe I won't get as tall of tire as I desire but it doesn't mean that current setup doesn't not work...

Which may be for the better because parking structures at 7' clearance is pretty close. This will also inhibit me from doing some hillbilly fender clearancing or fender flares that cost an arm and a leg (still not sure why, its just plastic)

Thanks for your input.

Just out of curiosity o great and glorious hive mind: what are your thoughts on air pressure for such tires?

My '99 suburban had LT tires on it (44 max psi) and towing a fairly heavy trailer was a VERY squirmy affair. I got a deal on a new used set of D load range tires for it and (65 psi max).

Towing is much improved now but when not hauling the ride has suffered pretty badly. Is it ok for such heavy tires to spend time at say 40-45 psi for daily use but pump them up to 65 for trailer days? Or will that let the thicker stiffer sidewall flex too much and overheat?

KyAllroad wrote: Just out of curiosity o great and glorious hive mind: what are your thoughts on air pressure for such tires? My '99 suburban had LT tires on it (44 max psi) and towing a fairly heavy trailer was a VERY squirmy affair. I got a deal on a new used set of D load range tires for it and (65 psi max). Towing is much improved now but when not hauling the ride has suffered pretty badly. Is it ok for such heavy tires to spend time at say 40-45 psi for daily use but pump them up to 65 for trailer days? Or will that let the thicker stiffer sidewall flex too much and overheat?

You can safely run the tires at whatever pressure the vehicle mfr. recommends, and increase the pressure if required for higher loads.

The only caveat to running at lower pressure on truck tires is if you run a real truck rim and tire in a xx.5" size (16.5, 17.5, 19.5, etc.) because they don't have safety beads and at lower pressures you run the risk of the tire dismounting. While I know that doesn't apply to very many people, I have trucks and trailers that do run some xx.5" tires and it is something to think about.

so thats why xx.5" wheels are odd sizes or hard to find. Interesting...