ALLDATA (why all caps? Cruise control for cool?) also generally gives no info, too.
On the other hand, sometimes that's a life lesson. Better to throw $90 at a rebuilder than spend $20 on seal and find out you need a $100 piston assembly.
ALLDATA (why all caps? Cruise control for cool?) also generally gives no info, too.
On the other hand, sometimes that's a life lesson. Better to throw $90 at a rebuilder than spend $20 on seal and find out you need a $100 piston assembly.
Looks the same as a Miata rear caliper, which I've rebuilt a few pairs over the years. This guide is as complete as any I've seen (first result for "rebuild Miata rear caliper."
Try to rebuild it. The condition of te bore is not important, the condition of the piston and the parking brake shaft is very important. No rust pitting is acceptable. Many rebuilders do very poor work on these. If it says "Cardone" do not use it.
TurnerX19 said:If it says "Cardone" do not use it.
A1 Cardone has a rich history of spewing out awful "remanufactured" products. When I used to sling parts, their stuff was the worst.
Personally, my worst experience with them was when I was trying to find a wiper motor for my Trans Am. I went through FIVE of them until I found one that actually worked, all special order parts! Took the better part of a month! A couple of the ones I ordered were literally hosed in silver spray paint and tossed in a box. They sprayed right over the old grease and grime! I can't imagine trusting a caliper "remanufactured" by them to stop a car.
In reply to Tony Sestito :
I had their "remanufactured" master brake cylinder completely fail. Twice. Once it blew out the rear O-Ring and dumped all the brake fluid into the booster (scary....) the other time it bypassed so badly that I couldn't sit on a hill with it for longer than 30 seconds.
I won't touch anything carrying their name ever again. No matter how non-critical it is.
In reply to Tony Sestito :
It appears that the lever is held in by the spring. Remove the spring and the lever just pulls out. There is a seal.
Professor_Brap said:I always rebuild. I have had terrible luck with remans. Also they take like 30min to rebuild.
Except for British cars with seized pistons.
In reply to spitfirebill :
I rebuilt a pair from 1957 TR3 that had been sitting for numerous years. All pistons were seized and pitted.
I've done fronts on the hondas, but the rears look like a pain to do.
After all that, I opted to source some remans locally. One of them was actually a brand new caliper, and the other, well...
The piston and seal were completely BERKED. Had to return it for another one. That one looks much better.
This one was also new, save for the bracket.
Like many of you said, remans are a crap shoot.
spitfirebill said:Professor_Brap said:I always rebuild. I have had terrible luck with remans. Also they take like 30min to rebuild.
Except for British cars with seized pistons.
Yeah, I'm sitting on a set for converting my bugeye to discs. Took some pliars, didn't get anywhere, probably not even good as a core exchange. Time for a new set.
Apexcarver said:spitfirebill said:Professor_Brap said:I always rebuild. I have had terrible luck with remans. Also they take like 30min to rebuild.
Except for British cars with seized pistons.
Yeah, I'm sitting on a set for converting my bugeye to discs. Took some pliars, didn't get anywhere, probably not even good as a core exchange. Time for a new set.
Fit a grease zerk in place of either the bleed port or the fluid port (plug the other one) and use a grease gun to hydraulic the pistons out.
The only calipers I've ever rebuilt were on my Mini and that is because the 7.5" disk parts are pricey enough to make do with what you have. Other cars I've just bought parts and slapped them on.
spitfirebill said:Professor_Brap said:I always rebuild. I have had terrible luck with remans. Also they take like 30min to rebuild.
Except for British cars with seized pistons.
Those can be refurbished too. Once you get the pistons out (both hydraulic pressure or banging the caliper - nondestructively - on a large block of wood usually pushed them out.
The ones that are a real pain are the old Dunlop calipers which carry the seal on the piston instead of in a groove in the wall of the caliper half. If the wall of the cylinder is corroded, you have to split them and have them sleeved (or as I did on my race car, hard chromed and ground back to spec, so it wouldn't corrode again).
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