in particular, the 1.8 ignition control module, a.k.a. a total POS. I've read that these things are total turds and I am currently experiencing it. I just replaced one last year and it is already cracked out. Does anybody know if there is an upgrade solution that is not a cheap pile of flaming garbage? For reference:
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/vw/1.8L/icm-and-ignition-coil-tests-1
confirmed toast.
anything?
Odd. I have had dozens of VW's with that module and have used it on other engines as an ignition swap from points and have never had a single issue with them. I didn't realize they were problematic.
In reply to Jumper K Balls (Trent) :
Mine is ignition swapped onto a Miata. It could be that I'm driving it with the stock Miata ecu (dubious if the voltage or signal is the same), or if it is burning out due to the Honda cbr1000rr igniter sticks the module feeds (maybe they pull too much amp? Or have too much resistance? I dunno). All I know is I had the exact issue about a year ago to date (jan 8th, 2019). And now I'm back in the market for another.
The other gripe that I have is that I bought this from Amazon, and I just went back and looked. The one I have says "made in Taiwan", the picture shown on what I purchased says "made in USA". So I likely got a cheap Chinese rip off. I'm not sure if it's worth buying the genuine Bosch equivalent, and spending much more money, if it is only going to break due to an inherent flaw? Or, I just buy two really cheap ones off of Amazon and keep one in the glove box.
another checking and explanation how-to. Interesting to know. Does anyone know of a similar ignition module that operates the same way from a different brand of car? I can wire all kinds of stuff, I just need to know it works the same basic way.
Jumper K Balls (Trent) said:I didn't realize they were problematic.
I think most ignition modules have attracted their detractors over the years.
The good ones get complained about in internet forums
The bad ones get complained about in court... since apparently a vehicle stalling out in traffic is a calamity so heinous that your typical American driver just can't be expected to deal with it intelligently.
In reply to b13990 :
The vw ignition module is one of the most robust ever made.
the cbr coils are made for a cdi and too low resistance for a transistor ignition module.
In reply to _ :
Curious what part of what I posted warranted that.
Look at the post immediately below your cartoon. Kind of hints at the veracity of my point.
Is there good conductivity where it mounts? The base is a heat sink iirc. Usually some kind of paste between the module and the mounting surface.
b13990 said:In reply to _ :
Curious what part of what I posted warranted that.
Look at the post immediately below your cartoon. Kind of hints at the veracity of my point.
Look bud, probably more productive if we don't go there. I'm really interested in getting info, not thread derailment.
vwcorvette said:Is there good conductivity where it mounts? The base is a heat sink iirc. Usually some kind of paste between the module and the mounting surface.
I have the paste on. And heat sink. It is not mounted though. Just hanging out behind the washer bottle. There's enough wires and crap back there to hold it roughly in position.
In reply to Paul_VR6 :
Link? Fab9 tuning sells the EXACT same setup, and I don't hear anyone bellyaching about them. https://fab9tuning.com/fab9tuning-plug-play-coil-on-plug-conversion-kit/
the difference here is I didn't have to pay $300 for something I can scrounge out of a junkyard.
Lots of people sell things that marginally work. Those coils are meant for a cdi and will drastically reduce the life of any ignition module attached to it.
In reply to Paul_VR6 :
That's fine, can you show me something that says that? I'm having a hard time tracking down anything about these coils, any info would be great. The google is rife with google ads these days.
according to fap9, this module "converts" for the sticks. This is whoever posts in the Miata forums under the fap9 login... maybe I just need to know how this module works and then I can get some sticks that will work with it?
Did you buy a factory VW one? No firsthand experience with that part in particular but VWs are especially part for aftermarket parts like that being so poorly made they aren't even usable.
In reply to Tk8398 :
Yeah that was my gripe before. The one I bought was supposed to be legit bsh. Even came in a Bosch box. But it also said "made in Taiwan", unlike the pic in the Amazon ad that clearly showed "made in USA". And it's Bosch... should say made in Germany? Right.
No, sometimes the parts are made in other countries too. Legitimate Bosch parts aren't always made in Germany.
In reply to _ :
Go to the dealer with the part number, that's the only way to be sure what you are getting.
If it is supposed to be mounted to something so as to dissipate heat out of it and yours is just hanging (not mounted per factory spec) I would start there and correct that issue. That would definitely explain why the new one you got stopped working. With out being able to properly dissipate the heat it cooked its self.
In reply to dean1484 :
well it has a heat sink and thermal paste, the heat sink is allowed to dissipate heat to the air I thought? It's finned. Otherwise, I would assume the heat sink would be flat for better conduction of heat transfer to another metal surface.
side note: I will likely just get the toyota COPs and eliminate this needless part out of the eqauation entirely. Then I can drive them to full dwell when I get MS.
NOTICE: EARLY LINK ECU COMPATIBILITY ISSUES - Customers have reported module failure while using the LINK ECU.
Saw this in the write up. Might help, or maybe not.
In reply to noddaz :
I saw that too. It does kind of sound like they know about an issue, but are reluctant to be forthright about what it is.
Check the coil resistance, it will be *quite* low. Any 2/3 wire cop off a car (not bike) would be a better choice. I tend to use the latest vw cop (red) with standalone but most stock ecu can't drive them. Never used the toyota ones.
In reply to Paul_VR6 :
The yotarolla cops are actually weaker spark with the stock Miata Ecu. They don't shine until you drive them at 3.5 dwell with an aftermarket. Right now the Miata is stock, so I don't care about horsepower gains, and I seriously doubt I'll notice any drop in power, even if there is some. I just need a system that will work and be dependable.
This is one of those times the stock ignition should be left alone.
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