wvumtnbkr said:Or, follow this link....
Same person as above?
http://madscientistmatt.blogspot.com/2005/12/surge-overkill.html?m=1
That was an earlier version of the fuel system on the same car. I ended up having rust issues with the gas tank and took the opportunity to simplify things down to a single pump.
In reply to amg_rx7 (Forum Supporter) :
Sorry, Amazon not Ebay, but one example of many for surge tanks:
Thanks for that. When I was googling previously, I only saw results for surge tanks aT $300 and up.
Pele's setup looks interesting too...
I'll start doing some more research on the surge tank approach.
if anyone has additional ideas or links to good setups, please share.
Thanks
If I were to do it again, I'd figure out a way to put the pump IN the surge tank. And maybe stick it in the front fenderwell or something instead of the stock location where it gets all the exhaust heat and radiator outflow heat. (OTOH a fuel leak there would potentially dump raw fuel past the driver's door, not good)
I think I had well under $50 in making the contraption, most of it in NPT to double flare adaptors because I can't feel good about running six extra feet of hoses off of barbed fittings. Hardline and minimal rubber hose runs make me happy.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:I think you're over-thinking things. Unless this is a max-effort race vehicle, I wouldn't worry about it. Drop a high pressure pump in the tank and go. I autocrossed my old 96 Impala SS last year and it has a big, wide, flat belly tank under the trunk with next to zero baffling and it never had a hiccup.
There is no in tank fuel pump. There isn't even a sending unit that has lines going through it that you can bodge a pump onto, those are part of the tank. The fuel pump sits under the driver's seat after going up and over the rear axle.
Fuel starvation happens in left corners and, perversely, under acceleration, because the fuel pickup is at the driver's front of the fuel tank.
The middle of the tank is very short due to the spare tire well, the only high spot is on the driver's side.
There are plenty of possibilities for an in-tank pump. Yank the sending unit and stuff one in that is close. Might have to bend a pipe or two. That won't solve the starvation issues. That sounds like a poorly designed tank.
I did that on a 71 El Camino on which I put Vortec heads and a vortec EFI intake. I pulled the sending unit and installed a sender/pump unit from something like a 90s Buick or something. I had to bend the wire for the float so the gauge was correct and bent the tube up a bit, but it worked like a charm. Back in the day, all the GM stuff was pretty universal, so it was a slam dunk
I like the sump idea if you have the ground clearance for it. I've done that before (but made someone else weld the tank. I weld strong, not liquid-tight. One suggestion... install a shutoff valve on the tank. I had to drop the tank once and it was 3/4 full. Made quite a flammable mess when I tried to pull the line and aim it toward a bucket.
But a sump is basically a surge tank that is part of the tank itself. Seems less complex to me and equally effective.
If you have enough depth in the stock tank, a Tanks Inc. unit may work well for an in-tank pump.
This is what I used in my TR6 tank and it worked pretty well. It has a built-in surge tray that is filled by the return line.
Late to the thread but. I've done two external surge tanks and 3 converted tanks. The last converted one I did I used a 98 Mustang tank. $80 new shipped on Ebay. Amazon had a 98 Mustang HP Walbro for under $100. I cut the top ring off, remove tghe sump. Cut a hole in the old tank, tack sump in, weld new ring on. Pressure test for leaks with windex and shop vac set to blow. I prefer in tank with factory sumops. You can run them low and they are quiter and less problems than feeder and surge tanks.
JoeTR6 said:If you have enough depth in the stock tank, a Tanks Inc. unit may work well for an in-tank pump.
This is what I used in my TR6 tank and it worked pretty well. It has a built-in surge tray that is filled by the return line.
That looks like the way to go, it looks height adjustable and you just cut the bracket down to fit.
Similarly, if you still have the donor FC this thread from rx7club shows putting the internals of an FC tank into an SA22C's.
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