Please enlighten me with your secrets. Having a swell time trying to get the outer race out of the trailing arm. That sucker is in there!! Wheel hub and the outside inner race are out. Slide hammer puller, check. Homemade puller check. Destroyed homemade puller, check. Heating up the trailing arm with a torch, check. Outer race free, not check. EERRRR!
Did you take off the big C clip that holds the bearing into the trailing arm? Knock out the hub, etc, and it is there, but inaccessible with the hub in place.
Aside from that, just let it soak in penetrating oil and then crank down with the press. I think I used up about 11 of the 12 tons my press has when replacing the wheel bearings on my old e30. I think I just left it cranked up for a bit and it eventually popped.
The job sucks, so you are doing right.
Getting the dies right helps a lot, make sure its a straight push. Had a bit of a bitch getting it straight with the press. In some ways the pelican parts tool is easier to do it with the part on the car. But try and find it cheaper, with better service.
While the trailing arm is out, reinforce the mounting tabs for the sway bar.
hmmm.. think this will be a job I pay somebody to do
It wasn't THAT awful, but wasn't fun.
While in there, this is also the time to replace the rear trailing arm bushings, as well as the rear subframe bushings. I couldn't believe the difference that replacing all of that made in the feel of the car, though after 200k+ miles, it was time.
It sucked on our lemons car, we ended up making some tools to make it easier. Hopefully we can find them next time.
I redid all the bushings in the back of my Ti this spring. Finally got ride of the subframe bushings with poly. The old ones literally crumbled in my hands. Made a HUDGE difference in road feel.. at some noise expense, but well worth it
I take the control arms off, set them in the big vise and use a 10lb hammer and some pipe to "press" them out.
Yep, it's a pain. Add stainless brake lines to the while you're in there list - there are four in the back, and two of 'em are easiest to access while the trailing arms are out.
Harbor Freight universal FWD hub bearing puller kit and an oxy-acetylene torch. I just did my e36 M3 and it was a cast-iron bastard of a pig of a job.
Hardest part was pressing the outer CV splined stubs out of the hubs. I ended up making an extractor press out of a chunk of 1/2" plate w/ a bolt circle drilled in and a 3/4" nut welded on. Gun this onto the wheel studs and use the 3/4" all-thread "extractor" bolt to apply as much pressure as you dare. Heat to smoking w/ oxy-acetylene torch. Apply golf-drives w/ a 16# sledge to head of extractor bolt. Repeat for 15 minutes. Then use 10# slide hammer and heat to remove hub w/ outer half of inner race. Then the Harbor Freight kit to remove and reinstall the bearing and hub.
Of course, I discovered that it was the left front wheel bearing that was making the noise...
Might as well do the subframe RTABS as well, made a huge difference in grip on my car. Do it all once. Change your diff fluid while its detached from the car as well, much easier.
HUGE SUBFRAME TIP: When dropping the subframe, instead of trying to slide the subframe off of the bolts, take a hammer and knock the subframe bolt upwards, pop out the rear seat, and remove the bolt completely. You will need a spare bolt to knock it the rest of the way out of the bushing.
Sounds like you already have it out, hope this can help someone though
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