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Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon MegaDork
10/24/14 6:58 a.m.

Just had an epiphany, or maybe a brain fart depending on your POV: have you looked at Liberty front knuckles? Might be worth a peek.

Early style (through 2006):

Late style (after 2006):

singledownloop
singledownloop New Reader
10/24/14 9:28 a.m.

Curmudgeon we'll call it an epiphany.I think you might be on to something.I'll measure one next time I'm at the junk yard.

iadr thanks for the suggestion.

singledownloop
singledownloop New Reader
10/24/14 10:00 a.m.

Maybe I should just use the awd dodge charger parts like this studebaker build.The charger has a 63" track width and the hornet has a 57.5" track width.The charger body is 74" at it widest point and the hornet is 72.3" wide.The track width difference is mostly likely due to wheel offsets.

http://www.driveduncan.com/front-suspension-all-wheel-drive-hemi-studebaker/

Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon MegaDork
10/24/14 1:20 p.m.

That Stude is pretty cool! But I'm not sure about using the Charger AWD setup, it's that weird thing cribbed from Mercedes with two lower ball joints, four lower control arms etc. Of course, you are the guy with the tape measure and spot to fill...

singledownloop
singledownloop New Reader
10/24/14 1:58 p.m.

Curmudgeon if I did resort to using the charger setup I would use the stock suspension cradle like the studebaker was done.

If I could use custom uca and lca that used the stock pickup points on the hornet with a given spindle I would be set.I don't know nearly enough to design custom control arms.

What's every ones thoughts on shortening the factory eagle spindle then machining it to bolt on a ball joint adapter like ffr cobras.

Curmudgeon
Curmudgeon MegaDork
10/25/14 9:06 a.m.

Keep in mind I have never built an FFR Cobra so could be talking out of my butt. I have looked at their setup and my thoughts: they use the Mustang strut type knuckle with a bolt on adapter. The Mustang knuckle mount point has a 'twist' to allow use of the stock strut setup and this appears to limit just where the upper ball joint is placed.

Back to your setup: as the saying goes, anything is possible. My concern is this: if there is any welding involved with your idea of shortening, machining holes and adding an adapter in the FFR vein, it's going to need to be done by someone who knows EXACTLY what they are doing, this is NOT a place to shortcut on a forged part! That means carefully planning out the camber curves etc beforehand, it would be sad to do all that then discover that something really weird happens which makes the car undriveable or dangerous. Do you have access to any sort of program to lay it out ahead of time?

By the way, about fabricating control arms: it's not as difficult as you would think. It does require some thought and welding skill with mild steel as opposed to forged, but if I can do it ANYONE can. Get on the circle track sites and look at their premade parts, they are quite reasonable. Little story: I made my own tubes for my upper control arms, then not a month later the latest catalog showed me the EXACT thing I needed (4" long, swedged tubing, knurl in place, 1/2-20 left/right thread) in the damn book for like $8 apiece. Timing is everything...

singledownloop
singledownloop New Reader
10/25/14 10:22 a.m.

I don't have a program tho lay it out.I wouldn't weld on a spindle.My thought was cut the spindle top off right above the bolt that hold the caliper bracket.Then mill flats on the spindle to add an additional bolt to hold a ffr style part.

I'm no engineer and don't want to die playing one.Frustration must be setting in.I'm thinking about using a manual mill to make copies of my original rwd spindles.I then could add the bore for the eagle bolt on hub.The stock spindle steering arms bolt on so that would be less to machine.If I did this I would have the stock factory steering characteristics.The rwd spindle isn't that big of a piece.If I cut the basic shape out of steel before machining I might be able do do it manually in my lifetime.I'm retired so I have the time.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic PowerDork
10/25/14 8:37 p.m.

Assuming its thick enough, you should be able to safely alter the stock spindle as you describe. Figuring out the upper arm, and where it should attach to the chassis requires some engineering.

If you intend to alter a SLA suspension system, outside of highly documented common stuff (e.g. Shelby drop) you really need to learn how to play engineer. All I know, I know from lurking around on the locost boards, if memory serves correctly, they can direct you to the programs to lay it out and calculate the geometry.

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