Factory versus aftermarket suspension components (ball joints, bushings, etc)

I've decided to keep the GS430 after getting nothing but lowball offers on it. I went and put a lovely new set of 18" wheels and 245 series tires on it, which exposed some suspension weakness (worn upper ball joint on one side, worn tie rod end on other side). I'm the type to replace stuff like that in pairs, and decided it made more sense to go ahead and do all the wear parts at the same time in the front suspension while I have it apart.

My question for you guys is: on a car like this, where ride quality counts and even a little variation can be noticed in a big way, would you take the plunge for factory parts? The cost difference is staggering; it's about 2x - 3x the cost for factory versus, say, Moog brand parts. Usually I would go factory given that my experience with them has always been better. But when it takes $900 worth of parts and makes it more like $2500 that is a little hard to swallow.

Example: Moog front upper control arms, $123.79/ea. Toyota (Lexus) control arms: $371/ea, and that's with a discount.

I like to do something once and have it done right, so I'm not even considering those $90 front end kits you can find on eBay. But I see that price spread between "decent" aftermarket and OEM and have to step back and think about it.

I always lean towards factory, but that's a pretty big number difference. Asian cars often have dedicated suppliers for wearing parts, and its not odd to be able to buy an OE part from the original supplier at a substantial discount. Worldpac has a lot, but they are a warehouse that generally won't sell to individuals. Beck Arnley is a line that often is pretty good quality. Moog is a real crapshoot. They may or may not make the parts you buy for Japanese applications, and the parts they put in the box may range anywhere from Chinese junk to reboxed OE parts. There is really no way to know until you open the box.

You might look at the NAPA "Altrom" line, lots of OE stuff, sometimes it's stupid cheap.

In reply to Streetwiseguy:

I would say it depends on which Moog part numbers you are looking at. There seem to be 2 different ball joint options from Moog for most applications; the crap shoot option, and the high quality servicable "gusher valve" option, for example. I have never had a problem with their "better" option for whatever part in question. And, an aweful lot of track/racecars have Moog suspension parts on them.

I'm in the same boat with my 2009 Mazda3. Just turned 100k miles and I can tell the suspension needs refreshing. Rock Auto has a number of options for 1/3rd the price of Mazda but it may be false economy to buy parts that are just going to wear out in no time.

WildScotsRacing wrote: In reply to Streetwiseguy: I would say it depends on which Moog part numbers you are looking at. There seem to be 2 different ball joint options from Moog for most applications; the crap shoot option, and the high quality servicable "gusher valve" option, for example. I have never had a problem with their "better" option for whatever part in question. And, an aweful lot of track/racecars have Moog suspension parts on them.

I agree, for domestic cars. Asian seems a bigger crapshoot.

BrokenYugo wrote: You might look at the NAPA "Altrom" line, lots of OE stuff, sometimes it's stupid cheap.

I agree. I thought Altrom was Canadian only, so I didn't mention them.

I used to buy Moog, then after replacing E36 M3 3 times, I went with Deeza or Beck Arnley and never turned back.

FWIW, "civlians" can easily buy from Worldpac. Many specialty shops have a "OE Parts" section in their online store. It's Worldpac.

034 Motorsport used to have a portal on their site but it's down. I've forgotten the other places where I've seen it (probably other VWAG specific places) but I've compared the inventory to our Worldpac online catalog and it's identical...

I dance on this one myself, for exactly the same reasons. OEM factory parts usually are better, but usually cost a whole lot more. As I've gotten older, and my cars somewhat nicer, I'm more and more inclined to go oem or better, not cheaper and lower quality.

That said, how long do you plan to keep this GS430? If it's a car you plan to keep and drive for many more years, than oem may well be worth your while. But, if you think you're going to be listing it on the market again in a year or two, cheaper aftermarket may well be the better choice.

Unfortunately there is no clear way to know without some inside knowledge. If you can be sure who makes the OEM parts and that they make them the same as they do for Toyota, then you can buy them cheaper as AISIN branded versus Toyota branded. But it is very hard to know. For instance the factory engineered oil filters were testing and tuned for one of the engines I worked on but the supplier reduced quality and removed features for the ones they sold in their packaging on the auto part store shelves. So I knew to always buy from the dealer and only take ones in the factory branded box.

For suspension parts I would just go with the factory parts. The only time I have deviated from that is when the factory itself changes parts. Instead of making new stock parts they themselves start buying Moog or other stuff.

Seeing as I drive older cars Im pretty much stuck with aftermarket. That being said I do prefer Moog and Beck-arnley over the other brands as they seem to be more consistent quality wise.

I'd find out who made the parts in question and buy them from Rock Auto. For instance, I know Aisin makes the water pump in my Toyota. The dealer wanted $120 for the pump and housing. I paid about half that for the Aisin part from Rock Auto. It was the exact same part except it didn't have "TOYOTA" cast into it. Everything about it was exactly the same.

Having said that, I do go OEM for engine seals. They usually don't cost very much, they're not a "substitute" part, and they are often revised as time goes on.

Another option.

Thanks for all the input guys, this is really helpful.

Is the Nasa Altrom line really good / OEM grade? They seem to have what I need for the front end in that line.

Beck/Arnley seems to be priced right around Moog; is it better or just more consistent than Moog?

FoxTrapper: I would say I plan to keep the car for another 3-5 years. Long enough for a marginal part to fail. I'm not too concerned about losing the money I spend when reselling it - anything I spend on the car at this point is a loss, so I'm just concerned about getting enough enjoyment and utility out of what I do to the car to justify the expense.

DuctTape&Bondo: Excellent link! I would like to maintain the factory ride as it's pretty nice and handles well enough, I'm concerned the poly bushings would made it ride harder/rougher and add squeaks. I've only had one car with poly bushings - a Miata with end links that were poly - and it squeaked a lot.

I'll look into Worldpac and see if I can find a way to order their parts and what quality they seem to be.

I don't know of any way to find out who makes the OEM parts.

I'll also put together a complete price from the dealer to see what the actual price difference will be. I'm up to $890 in parts from Rock Auto using Moog parts, and I know it'll be at least double that using Toyota parts.

Price comparison:
Rock Auto - mix of Moog, Beck-Arnley, and Raybestos (brakes) parts, all the "better" part if available: $847.77 plus shipping.

Lexus of South Atlanta (sells discounted online): $2,131.52 plus shipping.

Tough pill to swallow, but not quite as much more as I expected. Still haven't found a Worldpac portal to look at those parts.

Moog doesn't scare me with their quality. I'd be generally perfectly willing to run a Moog part.

Beck-Arnley is a rebrander as far as I know, and doesn't make anything themselves, they just stick their label over the makers name on the box and mark the price up. That's been my experience with them. I don't think I've ever had a true bad part from them, but some were of a less than thrilling maker. U-joints in particular as I recall.

Raybestos is not a product name I will run. I've had too many problems with their stuff.

This thread is probably quite worthwhile for you regarding the brands carried by Rock: GRMS Rock Brands Reviewed

Very useful, thanks. On raybestos: I was looking at using their "advanced technology" rotors which are painted non friction surfaces and supposedly more nicely machined. I had good luck with them the one other time I used them. Same with the advanced tech pads; they make Porterfield race pads which I've had good luck with so it seemed likely they could make a decent street pad. Do you still say no go?

dculberson wrote: On raybestos: I was looking at using their "advanced technology" rotors which are painted non friction surfaces and supposedly more nicely machined. I had good luck with them the one other time I used them. Same with the advanced tech pads; they make Porterfield race pads which I've had good luck with so it seemed likely they could make a decent street pad. Do you still say no go?

I have no experience with their advanced technology stuff.

In the past I've had the lining fall off their pads and shoes. I've also found their assembly quality to be poor, with lining materials cut short, glued on crooked, gobs of glue that needed to be cut off, etc. The braking effectiveness of their pads and shoes when installed has also been quite mediocre. But, this is all generic cheapie Raybestos products.

Perhaps their advanced technology stuff is indeed very good. I simply do not know it.

For me, with the name Raybestos attached to it, I'd rather have something else.

In reply to dculberson:

Often, the manufacturer's name is just embossed on or molded into the part.

dculberson wrote: Still haven't found a Worldpac portal to look at those parts.

Even though it might not say it, I believe blunttech uses Worldpac. Run yout car through their website or email Steve:

Blunttech

Steve is a great guy and respected in the BMW aftermarket community. His prices/services are excellent.

Slippery: looks like you're right! The pics say worldpac on them, and they do have a selection of genuine suspension parts for my car. Unfortunately they cost more than direct from the discount online Lexus parts dealers. Look at that rear upper control arm! $800+ each! Man why can't I like Chevy Cobalts or something??

Well, I just placed about $1000 worth of aftermarket suspension parts, mostly Moog; it'll probably be the first non-OEM parts on this car in 261k miles. Only time will tell if I regret it.

There are a couple of bushings on a rear lower control arm that don't seem to be available aftermarket. I'll look some more and order factory if not. $289 for those two arms; bushing alone isn't available.

My ¢.02

Toyota/Lexus thinks that they are Mercedes Benz when it comes to parts, despite the fact that they are often more like GM. OTOH, I have seen that with electrical parts, Toyota's do seem intolerant of aftermarket parts, at least the cheapo ones.

Since this isn't electrical parts, I'd go with the higher end aftermarket stuff.

Finally ordered the last pieces of the front suspension. I couldn't find the secondary lower control arms aftermarket anywhere. I ended up ordering factory parts. I did find a decent deal on them on eBay; hopefully they turn out okay.

HappyAndy: I do not find the quality statement to be true - at least on Lexus parts they are miles beyond GM in quality. The parts I'm replacing are mostly original at 261k miles. The car still rides very nicely. Very few all-original GMs ride well at 261k miles. Then again, rebuilding the front suspension on an Astro van cost me about what one control arm for the Lexus cost. It's a trade-off.