FC3S power window switch?

So I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a new PW switch for the RX-7. I've had this thing apart at least twice in the 10+ years I've owned it. Each time, it looked fine, but for some corrosion on the contacts. Each time, I cleaned it up and it worked fine, if a little slow, for a period of some years. Keep in mind this car is driven very little, so it really isn't lasting for very many uses before it quits working altogether, which is where I am now.

Car is '88 RX-7 Turbo II with a little over 100k miles on it. Drivers side window goes down, but not up. Passenger side is fine. Motor is fine. If I jumper the switch, it will go up and down no problem. Do I need a new switch, or can I do something to this one to keep the contacts from oxidizing? I'm going to pull this thing apart one more time, and I want that to be the last.

I have the switches and door harness, nice black door cards from an 89 that donated the sheet metal for my new chassis build for my race car. Call me if you're interested. They'll be cheap, plus shipping from Gettysburg, Pa. seven 1 7 two five 3 5 zero 77

In reply to Don49:

Hmmm, what else might you happen to have laying around from that car?

I know the first gen guys have issues with the power window switches getting carbon on the contacts due to the fact that Mazda ran the load through the switches. I seem to remember the community figuring out how to run the motors through relays. Maybe the second generation already runs through relays, but if not I would figure out how to do that.

Chris

I have both door glasses and all the window mechanics including motors. Fuel tank, wiring harness and a bunch of miscellaneous pieces. The chassis was a mostly stripped shell when I got it and I am keeping the suspension pieces.

1988RedT2 wrote: So I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a new PW switch for the RX-7. I've had this thing apart at least twice in the 10+ years I've owned it. Each time, it looked fine, but for some corrosion on the contacts. Each time, I cleaned it up and it worked fine, if a little slow, for a period of some years. Keep in mind this car is driven very little, so it really isn't lasting for very many uses before it quits working altogether, which is where I am now. Car is '88 RX-7 Turbo II with a little over 100k miles on it. Drivers side window goes down, but not up. Passenger side is fine. Motor is fine. If I jumper the switch, it will go up and down no problem. Do I need a new switch, or can I do something to this one to keep the contacts from oxidizing? I'm going to pull this thing apart one more time, and I want that to be the last.

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I have had the same issue for years. | fixed it on the race car by going to manual windows. However the 10AE suffers from this issue, I can rebuild them all I want but they never seem to work right. I remember a while back on the club about people using relays and doing some re-wiring so the load isn't passing through the switch and that helped but I do not know the details.

In reply to Don49:

Thank you for that most generous offer. I may give you a call one evening. Complicating factor is that I have recently come into a number of automotive relays that would be perfect for this application.

1988RedT2 wrote: In reply to Don49: Thank you for that most generous offer. I may give you a call one evening. Complicating factor is that I have recently come into a number of automotive relays that would be perfect for this application.

I would be curious to see how you solved it so I can apply it to my car. I hate having to click up or down repeatedly for it to work and sometimes it operates slow, like you said.

In reply to Don49:

Any chance you have the center vent/HVAC bezel thing?

No interior pieces at all.