Actually, that outer adjuster on the front lower loooooves to slip. You'll have to lock it down. I was tempted to weld mine in place after busting them loose so many times. Much better to simply put extended lower ball joints on if you need the extra camber. The cams slip under hard side loadings, not jumps. You need to be generating grip :)
With the fronts, if you adjust camber with that outer adjuster, you will have to reset the toe. So it's no different than adjusting the factory front adjuster.
The V8R arms have a long history of revisions to get them in the same ballpark of strength as stock. Turns out that stamped steel is actually a really good material for something like an organically shaped control arm.
I have run tubular arms on my car. I now run stock arms with rubber bushings with the exception of a set of Paco rear uppers that I mostly put on for durability testing.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
Back inna day, you used to be able to buy square cams for '64-73 Mustangs, for people who road raced them. The hole was off center enough that you could still get four different camber settings depending on where the plate was rotated. Yes, you had to take it apart to adjust it, but that sucker wasn't going to slip.
I'm kind of surprised nobody has come up with this for the Miata.
You mean like this?
https://www.flyinmiata.com/eccentric-lock.html
They didn't exist at the time I was running the arms.
Not like that, although now that I'm refreshed with what the chassis side looks like, square cams wouldn't work anyway. Which is a good reason why nobody had done it.
amg_rx7
SuperDork
9/30/19 7:12 p.m.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
how effective are those? Also, how fine are the adjustments?
I bought a set ages ago and forgot I had them until now :)
my front right camber adjuster keeps slipping on my SM. Even with the “improved” Advanced Autosports alignment bolts, which do help
https://www.advanced-autosports.com/collections/suspension-steering/products/replacement-alignment-cams
I tend to aim for ~3.25-3.5 camber on that corner since most of our tracks are counter clockwise
thanks
In reply to amg_rx7 :
That's what I was getting, I have them at all four corners, the issue I have is the granularity makes it a frustrating experience. Before I had my lift it was terrible. The control arms have adjustment without depending on the cams. Mine haven't budged however, you'd have to break the cam grooves for them to slip I'd think.
Yup. They do limit the granularity and they’re a pain to use. But they will eliminate the possibility of slipping.
We’ve poked at ways to improve the former problem. Haven’t figured it out yet given the equipment available for production.
The frustration is totally worth it IMO, you can be sure your alignment is going to stick when you set it. Better to have a slightly compromised alignment than getting the perfect alignment only to have it slip...
nocones
UltraDork
9/30/19 10:38 p.m.
accordionfolder said:Next year I'm going to a7's as I've been having a hell of a time getting the r888s to come up to temp. Reading around says the Hoosier A7 come up to temp on track on a car this light and wear relatively slowly (we'll see). I'm just hoping they don't overheat.
My MG weighs about the same and I run A7s on track. I've got about 3 hours on them and they don't really show any wear. It takes about a 3 min of hard driving to get them up to grip and no matter how hard I drive they never seem to overheat in a 20 min session. You may be harder on them with your HP I'm only at 165 WHP.
In reply to nocones :
What width are you running? I'm honestly not that far over 165 whp if I was a guessing man, the setup is good for 200 whp they claim, but I'm having some belt slip/boost leaks and I have a VERY rich tune right now. I haven't bothered dialing it in yet because... lazy.
Do you have a build thread for the MG? I thought I remembered reading about it, but it might have just been in your profile.
Keith Tanner said:
You mean like this?
https://www.flyinmiata.com/eccentric-lock.html
They didn't exist at the time I was running the arms.
Does anyone make cam bolts like this for strut cars?
Could one just weld on the outer pocket to the ear of your strut?
Well, I had already ordered the rear arms before this discussion and the setup worked great for getting the rear toe and track setup despite the lack of granularity in the cam locks.
Each turn seems to be roughly 1/16" - the arms paired with cam locks and good records made it a long but straight forward evening. You disconnect the cam bolts, adjust the hiem joint, put back together - with the cam locks marked and oriented I could put them back together accurately (and surprisingly quickly after the first time). Camber is adjusted with Paco arms.
Front toe is easy, so I might just get upper arms to get camber granularity and leave the front lower arms as the stamped steel and cam locks.
nocones
UltraDork
10/5/19 6:13 p.m.
In reply to accordionfolder :
I run the 245s on 9" wheels.
Build thread is here. All the older pics are on Photobucket so effectively useless but it is what it is.
Nocones MG
Keith. How do Exocets compare to Westfields or Locosts in your experience?
