Hey all,
It is broke and I have to fix it.
Someone was a moron (me) when trading off an old blue truck in exchange for a big green van (also old). The trading wasn't what made the moron, it was not checking to see if the big green van (Oscar) had antifreeze in the cooling system before November.
It's a small block chevy (305, TBI, not that it matters) in a '92 OscarVan.
So...I've got a popped out "freeze plug" and maybe (who knows) no catastrophic metal rupture on the block.
The problem is, the plug that popped is the one that's behind the engine mount on the passenger side of the van. That means, even after I get the engine tilted over enough to get access to the hole-where-the-plug-once-was, I'll have no straight-line whacking room with which to drive in another plug.
The first thing that comes to mind is, "Just put in a block heater" because they slide in the core hole, expand/tighten with a wrench and would solve the problem. This what the factory does for the block heater option (I've seen it, have one of the heaters that I could use). They take the expansion plug out of the block and install a heater like I've described above.
The next thought is "I don't need a block heater, surely there's a plug that can slide in and tighten down that doesn't have a heater element in it."
So...I bet someone here has BTDT and can tell me what product to use in just such a situation (and I can almost name who might reply...I love this board...but I won't 
).
So...what should I do?
Thanks!
Clem
First, I Lol'ed.
Unfortunately, I don't want to hole-saw through the crossmember (after removing all the suspension from that side). I'd probably junk the van before all that work ;). Not really, I'd probably just pull the drivetrain and do it "right" ish.
Slefain,
That is one thing that came to mind...I wanted to hear someone else bring it up and find out if it will actually work.
Anyone actually used this in an engine?
Clem
ClemSparks wrote:
Slefain,
That is one thing that came to mind...I wanted to hear someone else bring it up and find out if it will actually work.
Anyone actually used this in an engine?
Clem
They kinda work. Usually the casting on the block cuts the crappy quality rubber & they leak. Or they take & set, loosen up & leak. It may take a few tries to get it right (tighten it too tight & it splits, too loose & it falls out), but they can work. That was the only option on the rear of a Jeep I-6 engine head where you have about 1.5" between head & firewall.
KJ
ClemSparks wrote:
Slefain,
That is one thing that came to mind...I wanted to hear someone else bring it up and find out if it will actually work.
Anyone actually used this in an engine?
Clem
I've had good luck with them. Most of the freeze plugs in my boat have been replaced with the rubber ones. We also put one of those in the 351 in the lemons car. Tighten the dog mess out of them.
Clean up the hole with emery.
Instead of whacking it with a whammer, is there a jacking point like the frame that you can push off of?
Get a 3/4" threaded rod that's 1/4" shorter than the distance from the plug to the frame, put a nut on each end. Place a round wood block or hockey puck or something to deliver a uniform effort on the freeze plug and then "unscrew" the nuts.
This should push the plug into the tapered hole to seat.
Or pull the engine and do a rebuild. 
Dan
914Driver wrote:
Clean up the hole with emery.
Instead of whacking it with a whammer, is there a jacking point like the frame that you can push off of?
Get a 3/4" threaded rod that's 1/4" shorter than the distance from the plug to the frame, put a nut on each end. Place a round wood block or hockey puck or something to deliver a uniform effort on the freeze plug and then "unscrew" the nuts.
This should push the plug into the tapered hole to seat.
This idea is one I like...I might try it first. Thanks!
Or pull the engine and do a rebuild.
Dan
Given that it's a 305 I think this would more appropriately be "Or pull the engine and replace it with something that's not a 305."
But I'm too cheap for a rebuild for this turd of a van. I shouldn't be, but I am.
Itsabitch to get it out the van door. 
I'll have no straight-line whacking room
Just thought that should be brought up again.
I don't know how little room you have, but would one of the Craftsman power hammer jobbies do the trick? This is just another excuse to buy more tools.
I'm not familiar with this powerwhammer of which you speak. Is it anything like the Homer Simpson power hammer? 'Cause that was cool!
Must.
Find.
Videolink.
Clem
I'm in process of plugging 2" dia holes in several engine blocks where a gear driven water pump once resided (replacing with electric water pump) with one of the rubber plugs. . It's only keeping splashing oil in but was the easiest fix. Works so far. Mahle Clevite has them in their online catalog.
My only actual experience is that the rubber plug got me through the winter with zero drama in a old Volvo - I never considered it anything more than temporary.
This leads me to the theory that this is a simple math equation with variables including a) how often and how far Clem drives said van, b) how much the rubber plug leaks and how hard to put a new one in every 6 months, and c) cost of antifreeze replenishment depending on (a) and (b).
Unfortunately, I suck at Math.
I've run many miles on the rubber plugs. Just knock the old one into the block, and tighten the wee out of the rubber plug. ???. Profit.
The oldest one in my boat has been in there eight years with no leaks. As the brass ones corrode I stick another rubber plug in. The salt water eats them unfortunately. Three of them have been replaced so far. Pulling the engine isn't going to happen until it blows up so the plugs are permanent.
I don't like the rubber ones, but I'll use them if I don't have a choice.
When I did the one at the rear of the block in our Jeep, I used a brass one. If you remove the transmission and lower the engine all the way down on its mounts, you can get to the one in the head, but it's a tight squeeze.
Dorman makes a copper expandable plug for that application, it's P/N 568-010.
