I'm working on a 53 Willys CJ3A, they make a brake kit for it $800-1000 using mostly Chevy parts and you have to grind part of the axle hub.
Or there is a guy making brackets to use Suzuki Sidekick/Geo Tracker calipers and rotors. However you only get the brackets, so I'd have to source the other parts.
Sourcing the parts isn't the issue (those are all on Amazon or local scrap yard) but it is also recommended to change the master cylinder from a single to a dual, and staying with a 3/4" bore. However when I look for a dual with 3/4" bore I can't find it. I find 3/4" for a pair of calipers but wouldn't that I mean two, one for the font and one for the rear.
PS I've never modded brakes before which might be why I'm overthinking this.
thanks
Even if you were keeping drums on all four corners, a dual-circuit aka tandem master is a good idea. They've been required on all vehicles sold in the US since 1/1/1967 iirc.
on top of that, If you're only converting front to disc, I think you'll need to put an adjustable prop in the rear circuit, to dial down rear pressure and avoid locking rears before fronts.
on top of that, you should be able to find a tandem MC with 3/4" bore with a little googling. Sounds like something in the 90s Honda Civic ballpark to me.
You could do two masters and a balance bar a'la Wilwood, Tilton, etc.
If I stay single a proportioning valve is recommended.
The bracket manufacturer says the single is fine with a proportioning valve to reduce rhe PSI to the rear drums.
Either way I have to replace my stock master because it is messed up.
I'm in the (slow) process of converting a 55 Ford to front discs. I used RockAuto's site to determine what vehicle I wanted to take a variety of parts from. RA, in many cases, has specifications for the parts they sell.
Are there similar vehicles of similar weight, that has all drum brakes and a tandem master?
My first guess would be a Jeep or Int'l Scout.
octavious said:
If I stay single a proportioning valve is recommended.
The bracket manufacturer says the single is fine with a proportioning valve to reduce rhe PSI to the rear drums.
Either way I have to replace my stock master because it is messed up.
With a single circuit MC, one fluid leak anywhere in the system means you have *no* service brakes. berkeley that.
it is the disc/drum configuration, not the master cylinder type, that drives the need for a prop valve in the rear circuit.
you can trust me on this E36 M3. It's what I do.
I'd be looking at something like this:
1990 Honda Civic MC, new, $40 from RockAuto
13/16" bore, close enough to 3/4". Will take slightly more pedal force than a 3/4", but will have a slightly shorter pedal travel.
In reply to octavious :
I mean, there's not too many ways to make that a different way. Probably one guy builds them and sells them to many distributors.
I'm pretty sure all the air cooled Beetle dual circuit master cylinders are 3/4, and the world is chock full of (probably questionable quality) repro master cylinders. Also designed for no power booster.
Noddaz
PowerDork
9/3/22 3:45 p.m.
Carful in putting a master cylinder for a Japanese car on an American chassis.
The Japanese master cylinder uses a different type of sealing flare on the brake lines that connect to it.
But since you have to make new brake lines for a dual circuit system, it is no big deal. You will have to make hard brake lines with metric nuts and flares at one end and SAE (?) that go to the rest of the Jeep.
This isn't an issue. Just something to be aware of.
I think I'll probably replace all the brake lines anyways. They are all of unknown age, and the ones i removed when taking out the stock master cylinder were pretty crusty.
The Jeep currently has one line out of the master running to a T, that then runs to the front brakes. It has the a second line that runs to a second T at the back.
Streetwiseguy said:
I'm pretty sure all the air cooled Beetle dual circuit master cylinders are 3/4, and the world is chock full of (probably questionable quality) repro master cylinders. Also designed for no power booster.
A lot of them were 5/8ths bore, which is good to know but need to make sure you are getting the one you want. They also are remote reservoir and have ports for switches that would need to be plugged.
You can use Summit's website as a catalog for this sort of thing. Search for master cylinders, not universal, 3/4 bore, 2 or more outlets.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ceb-130-62026. Here is one for a Monza that comes with pushrod. Not the cheapest on the search results but a lot of the cheap ones are not set up for manual brakes and/or do not have reservoirs, which is added expense.
Also seeing things like non ABS Toyota Paseo, some earlier Corollas... if nothing else, you can compile a list to search junkyards or eBay.
Pete- that's excellent. I found the Raebestos version for $58-75.
Moving on, here is the brackets and directions about parts I'm looking at using. https://brennans-garage.com/products/copy-of-trackick-disc-brake-conversion-bracket-two-pair
I've found a few write ups where other have done this, but most are using their stock hard lines, and master cylinders, but changing the rubber line connections at the caliper. Recommended rubber line is from a Chevy S10.
So...if I am using a Monza master, and planning to make all new brake lines, mating to a Chevy S10 rubber line, does anyone know if they all share the same size fittings? I know the S10 line is supposed to have a 10mm banjo bolt on the caliper side, but I'm curious if I'll have to use adapters to make lines connect where I need them to.
The sure way to minimize the number of adapters and thus total number of potential leaks is to install all of the cylinders and the appropriate flex hoses, and then lastly make the hard lines with the correct fittings.
