GM OBD-1

So, the Great White Whale ('93 Roadmaster) had a few SESL codes, I've addressed what they said, but they're still there.

Does the GM OBD-I auto-clear codes or do I need to do it manually? (i.e. did I fix it or is it still dun broke?)

Also, when I clear the codes, how many miles/starts do I need before the ECU is ready insofar as an emissions test is concerned?

Remove the battery lead and leave it off for an hour or so. That will clear them.

Try the battery trick. If the codes are still there, then it thinks something is still wrong. Sometimes what it thinks is wrong is actually something else but related to that part.

You have to get a 93 smogged, where do you live, CA?

unhook the battery.. the codes will be gone.

Does that use a ALDC? Assembly Line Diagnostic Connector? Look for Freescan on teh webz. You build a simple interface from some radio shack parts and you can then talk to the car with your laptop.

Or pull the battery cables.

Supercoupe wrote: You have to get a 93 smogged, where do you live, CA?

Yup.

And I'm not sure what the port on this is called, but you just connect the two upper right pins with a jumper and key it on and it flashes the codes with the SES light.

Right now I'm getting 23 (IAT Sensor too cold) and 44 (Lean exhaust).

The IAT sensor is like $20, but the one in there just looked like it had a film of oil from the EGR passage that's pointed right at it, I did a brief test on it with a multimeter and it looked okay, so I cleaned it up and jammed it back in there.

For the lean exhaust, I've replaced the fuel filter, and the DPO replaced the 02 sensor. The Haynes I have suggests also checking the PCM ground, which I haven't gotten around to yet.

FWIW, the SES light isn't on constant. It comes on intermittently while driving. Problem is, if it comes on during a smog check, that's an instant fail.

EDIT: The only other thing that's odd to me is that according to the anmeter (or is it a voltmeter?), the system is pushing a lot. I'm used to charging systems reading low if they're not right on, so I have NO idea why it'd be running high (if in fact it is, and it's not just the gauge reading high).