pstrbrc wrote:
OK, I've just wadded up my 20somethingth page off the legal pad. This opens up a whole can of worms. HOWEVER...
Dude, does your neck hurt from carrying around all the brains?
I'm gonna just start off with the first question: Does a sway bar actually add more weight to the outside tire, when only considering a single axle?
Answer: No, if you could isolate an axle. The springs and sway bar merely attach the chassis to the axle, and the distance between the chassis and the axle are irrelevant to the force at the tire's contact patch. However, this is only relevant to a car that has a pivot at the center of mass.
Yeah. A John Deere 4wd tractor. Otherwise, if one end of the chassis wants to use more suspension travel to come to stasis than the other end, there will be a torque around an axis that runs through the roll centers, loading one outside wheel with the other end's weight. And the more I work on the math, the more I think that this is the real value of roll centers: The moment-arms of the torque that each end exerts on the other really make the difference. A high rear roll center combined with a low front roll center, and a high front Center of mass combined with a low rear center of mass, make a fwd compact sedan w/struts a pig to really make handle. (If, however, one could lower the inner suspension pickups in the rear, just bringing them down 2" lowers the roll center from 7" to 2.75", which is lower than the front. Escorts are the FWD compact sedan I'm familiar with, and you should see how easy it's gonna be to test this!)
(whew) And I'm still working on the calculations!
However, I can tell you that I'm beginning to see the justification for Hoelscher's argument that springs-only are more consistent than springs+bars. The calculation of this torque battle of the roll centers at 1g come out much different than at .5g, when using springs+bars. When using springs-only, it looks remarkably close.
Now, for the complicated part.
The car:
2000#, 60/40
58" track
100" wheelbase
Center of Mass is at 40" behind and 22" above the front tire contact axis.
Spring rate: front-180#/in, rear-120#/in
Roll Center Height, front-3.5", rear-7"
(just in case anybody's wondering, DaeWoo Of Death's questions got me crawling around a couple of cars in my garage. These #'s are a combination of what he gave above and specs of a chump-ready '95 Escort Wagon. )
Now, I do wonder where the Axis of Mass passes over the front and rear tire axis. I have the math to do this, now I need chassis scales. (shrug) But let's work with what I have.
I'm gonna have to clean up the math and the graphics, but I have real work to do. So, in my absence, discuss.
So, just to make sure I'm understanding you correctly, you are saying that I am wrong about the weight transfer across a single axle BUT that when you take into account both axles the swaybars cause large differences in the amount of weight transfer between the inside rear and outside front?
Very interesting. How does this work? I'm guessing it has something to do with the forces at the bushing vs forces at the spring, but I'm having trouble conceptualizing how.
If this helps anybody, I will explain what I've personally noticed in my no-bars build and compare it to a relatively conventional 1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD build I did before.
The Eagle (front strut, multilink rear) had 350/550 springs and 22mm/26mm swaybars on adjustable KYB shocks. It was lowered about 1 inch. It had poly throughout and the previous owner had deleted the funky passive rear steer thing. It weighed about 3,000lbs and ran 245/50/16 Kumho Ecstas. It had 2 degrees negative camber in the front with zero toe and 1 degree in the back with slight toe in.
The Daewoo (strut/strut) has 500/500 springs with no bars. It rides on non adjustable Bilstein cores and custom coilovers. It is lowered .75 inches in the front and .5 inches in the rear (although it's going lower in the back soon). It is also on poly all throughout. It weighs about 2,400 lbs and runs on 205/50/15 Hankook Ventus V12s. The Daewoo is running mild toe in front and zero toe in the rear. It has not proven sensitive to alignment changes, actually. It has .5 degrees negative in the front and zero camber in the rear.
As far as grip, my Daewoo would absolutely eat the Eagle alive. Before the Hankooks, back when I had no name mystery all seasons (195/55/15), it would still grip better than the Eagle, though not by much.
For responsiveness, I would give the slight edge to the Eagle, although turn-in grip is significantly better in the Daewoo.
For balance and adjustability, neither was as adjustable as I'd like, but the Daewoo is better.
The biggest difference, however, has been tire wear. On my really nose heavy Daewoo with minimal camber, it would seem obvious that it really beats up on the outside shoulders on the track. However, compared to the Eagle (or even the 1700lb, ultra gutted Corolla I used to autocross, actually) the Daewoo is very gentle on tires. I saw more carnage in a single autocross with the Eagle than I saw from two, 30 minute sessions with the Daewoo.
As for consistency between surfaces, I had not noticed much inconsistency with either car, although I've never tracked either in the rain.
And no, the stock Nubira is not some overlooked diamond in the rough as far as handling. Ask ndrwater. It was more like Buick understeer with nice, unpredictable oversteer thrown in at random moments combined with middling grip and no feel.
BTW, your car must ride like a limo. I'm at 500#/500# front and rear on my daily driven, ~2400lb car.